first corvette as a driver
Also, am I better off sticking with an all original or a custom? I don't care about matching #s/collector value so I'd personally prefer go-fast parts and modern tech where appropriate. They seem to go for about the same price.
I realize that this may become a money pit but I know a trusted mechanic who does classics, and I can do minor stuff myself. I did all the work on my motorcycles, not much with cars.
But lets face it, a car is a car. They are suppose to be driven. The main problem is that these cars are 30-40 yrs old, and if they still have 30-40 yr old parts...well, stuff will start to break if your going to drive it everyday.
You should either look for a very very well taken care of original, or one that has been redone some what. Look for cars that may have crate engines installed. If they have rebuilt engines check to see what parts have been used and if they can provide documentation. Look for cars that have had the suspension and brakes redone and really just mechanically sound and safe. Don't focus on the paint and interior first, unless it is just horrible...but what I am saying is don't just go buy a car with new interior and new paint and not mechanically sound.
Check for rust, frame, birdcage, kickpanels...yada yada
Really you want to find the car that has had the most redone to it mechanically(and right)...in the price range that you can afford.
Since you have a back up vehicle I say do it!
But lets face it, a car is a car. They are suppose to be driven. The main problem is that these cars are 30-40 yrs old, and if they still have 30-40 yr old parts...well, stuff will start to break if your going to drive it everyday.
You should either look for a very very well taken care of original, or one that has been redone some what. Look for cars that may have crate engines installed. If they have rebuilt engines check to see what parts have been used and if they can provide documentation. Look for cars that have had the suspension and brakes redone and really just mechanically sound and safe. Don't focus on the paint and interior first, unless it is just horrible...but what I am saying is don't just go buy a car with new interior and new paint and not mechanically sound.
Check for rust, frame, birdcage, kickpanels...yada yada
Really you want to find the car that has had the most redone to it mechanically(and right)...in the price range that you can afford.
Since you have a back up vehicle I say do it!
Not trying to disuade you from buying a C3 as your driver car....just wanting you to consider the negative side of doing so.
.Its really turning out better than I planned so I am keeping my other car to commute on rainy days and drive longer trips. If I had any kind real commute I really would not consider it.
it is my DD
i don't use it much from May - October because i own 2 bikes
i have only had the mirror glass tops off 3 times
i paid $9000
the 1st year i spent a few grand making it mechanically sound
i would not hesitate to jump in & drive to Florida
now after a good snow storm , i don't look out the window & think , hey the plows have not been by yet , lets take the Corvette for a ride - ya gota use yer head
if you are comfortable with a rear-wheel drive & you have good tires/brakes & ya drive mellow - i can go anywhere i want in the rain or snow
try to get yer mechanic bud to go over the car & put aside a few grand for near future repairs
once you have her sound , it is a pleasure to own/drive
Pete.
it's a car, not a holy relic
If you want to drive it everyday then drive it everyday. Yes take care of it by all means. But unless your going to buy a rare collector car as an investment enjoy it by driving it. Life is too short.
michael
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
A car is a car so that means you would pay the same price for a AMC Matador 4 door as you would a 1970 LT1?
I wouldn't but I don't think a vette should be held to the same low level as every other car either, thats why I know the difference in car models and years.
They were made to be driven. An $8000 one isn't going to be a show car or rare one that you have to really worry about. They are as basic mechanically as you can get so they are easy to work on in most cases. They won't get upset with you for using them and they won't melt if they get wet.
I used mine as a daily driver before I started rebuilding it but I did have another vehicle for a back up. The only reason I can give for not being able to drive it daily is that it will get old and you might get tired of it. For the fun of ownership aspect, it is best for a weekender vehicle/toy.
1) Perfect show cars. ~$16k and up. More than I'd like to spend for 70s tech.
2) Very good shape, classic/antique/collectible PA plates (requires safety insp but not emissions). Look like they were owned by gearheads, laundry list of rebuilt or lightly modified parts. I *think* this is what I'm looking for but the thing that kills me is I can't find any with manual transmissions. ~$8-11k
3) Short, vague descriptions of 350s by people who sound like they have no idea what's going on under the hood. I may be in this boat now but I'd like to think after owning one I'd know what the heck was inside, even if I didn't do the work myself. I don't know what to think of these. ~$8-14k
4) Shady/disassembled/major damage ~$3-8k. Staying far away from this unless I have somebody really confident and willing to rebuild it. I imagine this is outrageously expensive when many rebuilt C3s are already on the market but who knows.
I'm leaning towards #2 and basically just keeping it healthy, but I wonder if it is realistic to stay on the low end and pay to have a brand new, higher performance engine and any other drivetrain changes to make this work. I have a buddy who says things like "go get a <whatever> and slap a 500hp crate engine in there" but I think he's dreaming.
To answer some questions...
- I don't really like the C4s, and I think the C5s are a little out of my price range. I'd prefer not to finance.
- I can have another vehicle as my primary one for insurance reasons, though I'd obviously prefer to drive the 'vette whenever the weather is decent if I figure the inspection/titling stuff out
- I'm a pretty safe car driver. If I can't get stated-value type insurance I might just have to take that risk and be extra careful. Also, I'm not sure what the survival rate is for C3 crashes is.
- I don't mind having to put money into it as long as it isn't like buying a new one every year. After having a new car where every repair costs a thousand dollars it might come out cheaper! I plan learning whatever I can do myself and outsourcing the rest.
- I'm in the southeastern PA area. We get snow for sure, but I wouldn't be driving a C3 in it.
So far I've gotten very little "Don't do it" and a lot of "I hate you" from friends
it is my DD
i don't use it much from May - October because i own 2 bikes
i have only had the mirror glass tops off 3 times
i paid $9000
the 1st year i spent a few grand making it mechanically sound
i would not hesitate to jump in & drive to Florida
now after a good snow storm , i don't look out the window & think , hey the plows have not been by yet , lets take the Corvette for a ride - ya gota use yer head
if you are comfortable with a rear-wheel drive & you have good tires/brakes & ya drive mellow - i can go anywhere i want in the rain or snow
try to get yer mechanic bud to go over the car & put aside a few grand for near future repairs
once you have her sound , it is a pleasure to own/drive
Pete.
A car is a car so that means you would pay the same price for a AMC Matador 4 door as you would a 1970 LT1?
I wouldn't but I don't think a vette should be held to the same low level as every other car either, thats why I know the difference in car models and years.
I was stating that I believe that cars are meant to be driven. A corvette is meant to be driven...and enjoyed the hell out of. Unless you have one that is rare, or very low miles, or some uber collectors item drive it.
I would think you of all people would be with me on this.


















