Start malfunction, . . pls help.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Start malfunction, . . pls help.
Okay guys, did a search on here and found good advice but no luck so far.
'75 Corvette, fresh out of long term storage. Have been sorting it out for last few days. Good battery which turned motor over very well. Has been starting with no problems for days. If not at first bump of the key, at least second turn of the key. Always good strong crank of motor with no hesitation after turn of the key.
Today I turned the key and she turned over strong as always but didn't immediately fire off. Turned the key a second time and NOTHING!
No click from the solenoid, nothing.
As per forum suggestions, . . .
Ensured seatbelt fastened (although never before required)
Turned engine over by hand (in case of jammed starter)
Where to now? Start switch on top of column?
Any advice appreciated.
Thank you in advance for your time,
Joe
'75 Corvette, fresh out of long term storage. Have been sorting it out for last few days. Good battery which turned motor over very well. Has been starting with no problems for days. If not at first bump of the key, at least second turn of the key. Always good strong crank of motor with no hesitation after turn of the key.
Today I turned the key and she turned over strong as always but didn't immediately fire off. Turned the key a second time and NOTHING!
No click from the solenoid, nothing.
As per forum suggestions, . . .
Ensured seatbelt fastened (although never before required)
Turned engine over by hand (in case of jammed starter)
Where to now? Start switch on top of column?
Any advice appreciated.
Thank you in advance for your time,
Joe
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
yes, check voltage at battery, then look from the lug on the starter to the block. I think if you see more than 0.2 v drop you have a bad connection with supply to the starter or ground. Do your other accessories work? If so, it's in the starter solenoid circuit, including ignition switch, neutral safety switch, connections. Check at the small wire on the starter while someone puts key to start. Yes there are fusible links in the wiring to the starter so could be there. If no other accessories work, then the power is not getting to the fuse panel and then out of the starter switch. Trace it from the common post on the starter to the fuse panel.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Thanks guys,
I guess I should have mentioned before, . .
Yes, good power everywhere else. Lights, door buzzer, radio, power windows, . . . everything else seems to get good power.
Just no effect to turning the key.
I've had solenoids go out on other vehicles but if I remember correctly, it seems they would fail intermitantly for a while before completely crapping out.
I did lose an ignition switch on a Chevelle decades ago and that baby just said 'see ya' and failed without warning. Thats why I'm leaning that way but just wanted a more experienced opinion before diving in. Seems like a real PITA in the Vette as the Chevelle had WAY more room under dash.
Thoughts?
.
I guess I should have mentioned before, . .
Yes, good power everywhere else. Lights, door buzzer, radio, power windows, . . . everything else seems to get good power.
Just no effect to turning the key.
I've had solenoids go out on other vehicles but if I remember correctly, it seems they would fail intermitantly for a while before completely crapping out.
I did lose an ignition switch on a Chevelle decades ago and that baby just said 'see ya' and failed without warning. Thats why I'm leaning that way but just wanted a more experienced opinion before diving in. Seems like a real PITA in the Vette as the Chevelle had WAY more room under dash.
Thoughts?
.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 6
From: Chester Virginia
switch
Thanks guys,
I guess I should have mentioned before, . .
Yes, good power everywhere else. Lights, door buzzer, radio, power windows, . . . everything else seems to get good power.
Just no effect to turning the key.
I've had solenoids go out on other vehicles but if I remember correctly, it seems they would fail intermitantly for a while before completely crapping out.
I did lose an ignition switch on a Chevelle decades ago and that baby just said 'see ya' and failed without warning. Thats why I'm leaning that way but just wanted a more experienced opinion before diving in. Seems like a real PITA in the Vette as the Chevelle had WAY more room under dash.
Thoughts?
.
I guess I should have mentioned before, . .
Yes, good power everywhere else. Lights, door buzzer, radio, power windows, . . . everything else seems to get good power.
Just no effect to turning the key.
I've had solenoids go out on other vehicles but if I remember correctly, it seems they would fail intermitantly for a while before completely crapping out.
I did lose an ignition switch on a Chevelle decades ago and that baby just said 'see ya' and failed without warning. Thats why I'm leaning that way but just wanted a more experienced opinion before diving in. Seems like a real PITA in the Vette as the Chevelle had WAY more room under dash.
Thoughts?
.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
At this point, I wish it WAS the starter or solenoid. Much easier to get to than the start switch.
On your friends '65, . . was it the actual key cylinder or the start switch mounted on top of the column?
Thanks again.
Joe
.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Crap.
Just realized your buddies car was a '65 with the key in the DASH, not the column. My question might not apply as I'm not sure if the 'start switch' is an integral part of the actual key switch.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
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From: Houston Texas
Does that mean I DON"T have to drop the column to get to it?
Any idea if this a locally sourcable part, or will it be a special order?
If I can find it locally I'll just grab one tomorrow and at least remove it from the equation.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 6
From: Chester Virginia
Joe...65 as you figured out the key is in the dash not the column so they may not be comparable.
All the advice about troubleshooting where the electricity is and isn't should all be done before deciding on cause don't you think? Isolate the issue that way. If nothing has power is it links or did your battery just plain die and short inside so nothing comes out. Check the obvious first before ripping into anything is a motto I'd try.
Like checking to see the lamp is plugged in before buying a new lamp...
All the advice about troubleshooting where the electricity is and isn't should all be done before deciding on cause don't you think? Isolate the issue that way. If nothing has power is it links or did your battery just plain die and short inside so nothing comes out. Check the obvious first before ripping into anything is a motto I'd try.
Like checking to see the lamp is plugged in before buying a new lamp...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Joe...65 as you figured out the key is in the dash not the column so they may not be comparable.
All the advice about troubleshooting where the electricity is and isn't should all be done before deciding on cause don't you think? Isolate the issue that way. If nothing has power is it links or did your battery just plain die and short inside so nothing comes out. Check the obvious first before ripping into anything is a motto I'd try.
Like checking to see the lamp is plugged in before buying a new lamp...
All the advice about troubleshooting where the electricity is and isn't should all be done before deciding on cause don't you think? Isolate the issue that way. If nothing has power is it links or did your battery just plain die and short inside so nothing comes out. Check the obvious first before ripping into anything is a motto I'd try.
Like checking to see the lamp is plugged in before buying a new lamp...
Just nothing, not even a click from solenoid when key turned.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Austin TX
Auto or Manual? On the auto, the nuetral safety switch on the shifter is a good place for diagnostics and not too difficult to get to. I think it's a fat purple wire coming and going. If you get 12v here the ignition switch is in working order and you don't have to bother removing the steering wheel or dropping the column. From here, there is the nuetral safety switch itself (could be faulty or poorly aligned), and then downstream from the nuetral safety switch there may be a plug-in connector (i think used to tie the universal part of the wiring harness into the auto or manual specific bit) that could be corroded and causing your intermittent open circuit. From there it's on to the starter with a fusible link i believe, unless there are a lot of differences in C3s. Did you check at the starter on the big lug and small one for 12V always and when cranking, respectively?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
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From: Taylor Michigan
you have a very viable opinion with the 2 first replies.....Clean the negative battery connection on the frame....and use a remote starter button and see if you can crank the engine to rule the starter out of the problem........
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 51
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From: Houston Texas
Update . . . .
As previously posted . . . . . all other electrical items seem to be receiving good power. (radio, lights, antenna, etc.)
To further test the availability of good power, I was able to climb under the car today (not easy, wrenched the crud out of my back yesterday) and was able to jump the starter.
The solenoid seemed to react strong and without hesitation.
The starter spun strong.
Starter cranked (spun) the engine easily.
So again, I'm leaning towards start switch.
Thoughts?
As previously posted . . . . . all other electrical items seem to be receiving good power. (radio, lights, antenna, etc.)
To further test the availability of good power, I was able to climb under the car today (not easy, wrenched the crud out of my back yesterday) and was able to jump the starter.
The solenoid seemed to react strong and without hesitation.
The starter spun strong.
Starter cranked (spun) the engine easily.
So again, I'm leaning towards start switch.
Thoughts?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
More likely to be the Neutral Start Switch. If you have a manual trans, it is located on the side of the trans and could be somewhat corroded.
If an auto trans, it is mounted to the side of the shifter mechanism inside the trans tunnel. You can gain access once the top plate of that console is removed.
As mentioned, you need to trace continuity back through the system to see where the power disconnect occurs. If you don't do that first, you are going to just be swapping out parts until you fix it. And swapping out the ignition switch...if that is NOT the problem...is a real downer.
Locate the problem first. Replace the defective part or fix the wiring problem as needed.
If an auto trans, it is mounted to the side of the shifter mechanism inside the trans tunnel. You can gain access once the top plate of that console is removed.
As mentioned, you need to trace continuity back through the system to see where the power disconnect occurs. If you don't do that first, you are going to just be swapping out parts until you fix it. And swapping out the ignition switch...if that is NOT the problem...is a real downer.
Locate the problem first. Replace the defective part or fix the wiring problem as needed.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 214
Likes: 1
From: Round Rock Texas
On my '75 I had the same starting issue develop. Sometimes it would start fine, sometimes nothing at all. I was starting to think about all of the worst; bad ignition switch, bad clutch safety switch, interlock etc.
However; The problem was fixed relatively easy. I jacked the car up in the air and I found that the positive connection to the starter solenoid was loose. Took it all apart and made sure the first brass nut was tight against the solenoid body, then proceeded to add copper washers and all of the the other connections, finishing up with a lock washer and the final brass nut.
While I was at it I added a star washer under all of the chassis grounds that were in the same area. When I get the time I will go completely around the car and make sure every ground gets the same treatment.
No starter issues since! Sometimes we tend to think our problems are much worse than they are. Start with the basics, once you eliminate all of the easy stuff then you can start fretting about the bigger repairs.
Keep Crusin!
Dave,
Round Rock, TX
However; The problem was fixed relatively easy. I jacked the car up in the air and I found that the positive connection to the starter solenoid was loose. Took it all apart and made sure the first brass nut was tight against the solenoid body, then proceeded to add copper washers and all of the the other connections, finishing up with a lock washer and the final brass nut.
While I was at it I added a star washer under all of the chassis grounds that were in the same area. When I get the time I will go completely around the car and make sure every ground gets the same treatment.
No starter issues since! Sometimes we tend to think our problems are much worse than they are. Start with the basics, once you eliminate all of the easy stuff then you can start fretting about the bigger repairs.
Keep Crusin!
Dave,
Round Rock, TX