Painting Rocker Panels?
02-09-2012, 09:27 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Painting Rocker Panels?
Has anyone on this wonderful forum ever painted their rocker panels? By that I mean the stainless rocker molding panels beneath each door. Replacements seem to run between 150 and 200, and mine are pretty scratched up, beyond a good sanding and buffing away from sharp. So I'm considering a self-etching primer and a few coats of high gloss black, followed by a protective coat of clear.
I'm wondering if anyone has tried this? And if so what results they encountered? I assume there will be rock chip damage down the raod and the need for repaint every couple years, but along the bottom of a silver 75, the black will highlight the lines better than the stainless... and I cover the scuffs and scratches completely.
Any advice or instruction is welcome. Thanks in advance.
I'm wondering if anyone has tried this? And if so what results they encountered? I assume there will be rock chip damage down the raod and the need for repaint every couple years, but along the bottom of a silver 75, the black will highlight the lines better than the stainless... and I cover the scuffs and scratches completely.
Any advice or instruction is welcome. Thanks in advance.
02-09-2012, 09:34 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
These are anodized aluminum, not stainless. Etching primer will not get enough 'tooth' on the anodizing, even if sanded and result will flake.
Remove the anodizing (Eastwood carries product) then wet sand, fill depressions with epoxy filler, resand, prime and paint.
Remove the anodizing (Eastwood carries product) then wet sand, fill depressions with epoxy filler, resand, prime and paint.
02-09-2012, 09:37 AM
#3
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I actually just did this on my silver 75 just with a flat black and some coats of clear... The only advice I can think of is to make sure you prep the area very well making sure to get any oils off and sand it. Also if you are running sidepipes use a high temp paint I don't know if I had to but since they almost touch it seemed like a good idea.
02-09-2012, 09:47 AM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Fantastic advice. Aluminum huh? Wouldn't have guessed it. I'll post pics after paint. Thanks guys.
Anybody have before and after shots of the process?
I will have them next week, but in the meantime???
Anybody have before and after shots of the process?
I will have them next week, but in the meantime???
02-09-2012, 10:16 AM
#5
Team Owner
After. Paint is semi-flat Krylon.
Last edited by Paul L; 02-09-2012 at 10:24 AM.
02-09-2012, 12:32 PM
#9
Team Owner
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LenWoodruff (09-01-2018)
02-09-2012, 01:13 PM
#10
Team Owner
I took the opportunity to replace the mounting screws with SS machine screws. Added a dab of anti-seize compound for insurance.
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LenWoodruff (09-01-2018)
02-09-2012, 01:15 PM
#11
Team Owner
Thank you for the kind words! I have followed your restoration thread with great interest; and admiration of your talents.
Last edited by Paul L; 02-09-2012 at 01:27 PM.
02-09-2012, 01:58 PM
#12
Race Director
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I powder coated mine.....Cost 60.00....I also had my trim around the windshield done..
before
after
before
after
Last edited by ptroxx; 02-09-2012 at 02:02 PM.
02-09-2012, 02:28 PM
#14
Drifting
02-09-2012, 03:11 PM
#15
Racer
I lightly sanded my rocker panels & egg crates, then sprayed them with self etching primer. I had Maaco paint them Nevada Silver (color of car) for $100. I think they look great, gives the car a pro-touring 'monochromatic' look. I'd like to have the t-top trim painted, as well.
Good luck !
Good luck !
02-09-2012, 03:41 PM
#17
Team Owner
Yes. You can paint the anodized aluminum panels. The factory did in 1978-80. Just clean them well with lacquer thinner, etc., use a primer that is meant for 'bare metal' [Dupli-Color self-etching primer would do the job], shoot a couple of coats and let cure for 3-4 days.
No problem.
P.S. DO NOT sand the anodized surface. The anodizing is the only "hard" surface on those parts. It's what makes them durable and resistant to rock nicks. If you sand through the anodizing, you will end up with soft aluminum that will nick/chip with almost any impact. If you want to clean-off/smooth the surface a bit, use 000 or 0000 steel wool.
No problem.
P.S. DO NOT sand the anodized surface. The anodizing is the only "hard" surface on those parts. It's what makes them durable and resistant to rock nicks. If you sand through the anodizing, you will end up with soft aluminum that will nick/chip with almost any impact. If you want to clean-off/smooth the surface a bit, use 000 or 0000 steel wool.
02-09-2012, 03:53 PM
#18
Team Owner
Yes. You can paint the anodized aluminum panels. The factory did in 1978-80. Just clean them well with lacquer thinner, etc., use a primer that is meant for 'bare metal' [Dupli-Color self-etching primer would do the job], shoot a couple of coats and let cure for 3-4 days.
No problem.
P.S. DO NOT sand the anodized surface. The anodizing is the only "hard" surface on those parts. It's what makes them durable and resistant to rock nicks. If you sand through the anodizing, you will end up with soft aluminum that will nick/chip with almost any impact. If you want to clean-off/smooth the surface a bit, use 000 or 0000 steel wool.
No problem.
P.S. DO NOT sand the anodized surface. The anodizing is the only "hard" surface on those parts. It's what makes them durable and resistant to rock nicks. If you sand through the anodizing, you will end up with soft aluminum that will nick/chip with almost any impact. If you want to clean-off/smooth the surface a bit, use 000 or 0000 steel wool.
03-21-2012, 08:27 AM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
So I followed the good advice here, and am quite happy with the results.
Lacuer Thinner. Tape the groove. Prime it and high gloss black. On a Silver car it makes all the diiference, accenting the lines IMO.
I still worry about chipping, but as easy as the job was, I guess I can always repaint if I have to.
Thanks for the pointers.
Lacuer Thinner. Tape the groove. Prime it and high gloss black. On a Silver car it makes all the diiference, accenting the lines IMO.
I still worry about chipping, but as easy as the job was, I guess I can always repaint if I have to.
Thanks for the pointers.