Both doors have a similar gap and wondered if there is a way to adjust?

thanks,

 

Yes. Loosen the striker bolt on the inside of the door jam (star bit fitting) and slide it out the amount of the gap and retighten

 

Yes. That amount offset should be adjustable. Between the striker bolt and the hinge mount bolts, you should be able to achieve factory gap requirements.

 

How is it at the bottom?

From the pic it looks like it gets better as it goes down, if it does you probably need to adjust the upper hinge and maybe the striker pin a little (sort of pivoting on the pin)

If it's consistently out all the way down then just the pin

If the bottom of the door is out (as opposed to in like the top) leave the pin and adjust both hinges
Mooser

 

You might need a shim or two on the hinge. Also looks like the rear corner needs to come up a little, but that could be the camera angle.

 

Hi,
I don't think it's a good idea to use the striker to adjust the door gaps.
Using the hinges and shims is a better idea.
When you use the striker to lift or drop the door as you close it, it puts pressure on the latch and may make the door difficult to open, or need to be slammed to close.
Regards,
Alan

 

It is the vertical gap between the doop and qp most noticeable to me. There is better fitting horizontally as you travel from the top of the door to the bottom.

my worry is if I start shimming the hinge(s) then I may correct what I wanted to change but create a new problem somewhere else around the door.

Thanks to all-really appreciate the advice

 

The shop manual goes in to a lot of detail on door adjusting and what you adjust for with the striker bolt vs. the hinges both from their adjustability in the mounting holes and that using shims.

It makes my eyes glaze over so it is kind of hard to explain absent the shop manual.

 

Alan--

But you can adjust "latched" distances (either a little more closed or a little more open as in this case) with the striker, correct???

I'd be careful with the shims under the hinges as this will affect the gaps between the front of the door and the front fenders...

I think everyone is saying we need to see some more pictures of the gaps so we can provide better advice...

Rogman

 

Maybe it's just the picture
It looks like the door is in too far at the top (closed too much) in the pic.

If you look straight on to the side of the car, it sounds like your saying the door is drooped down.


EASY CHECK/ MEDIUM FIX!
With the door open, have someone lift up and down on it while you look at the hinges, you might just need new pins/bushings

If everything on the pins looks fine (no slop) then your into adjustments

NOT SO EASY FIX
Based on the fenders and quarters being right (body mounts etc)

Think of it this way might help. if the door needs to be adjusted up or down, do it with the hinges, adjust on the car or shims on the door side (like Alan said, do not use the striker to lift the door)

Look at the door fender and door quarter gaps, door up at the back will need either top/fender gap closer (top hinge forward) or bottom fender/quarter open (bottom hinge backward) or a little of both


Now looking at the door standing at the front (or rear) looking down the side
If the front of the door is in or out compared to the fender, hinges on the door or shims on the car side

If the back edge of the door is in or out (but consistent from the top to the bottom) move the striker

If it's not consistent top to bottom and the front of the door is.... well start drinking heavily and playing happy mediums and adjust the hinges

Manual has detailed instructions
If the gaps are all over, the body may be sagging / mounts gone, etc

Hopefully its just pins/bushings, not much slop at the pin can be a lot at the back of the door
Mooser

 

Hi Rog,
Yes, the in/out gap (flush-ness?) is set with the striker.
Often after new weatherstrip this needs to be done.
Regards,
Alan

 

Good point Alan, I was thinking that maybe the weatherstriping is gone on that door for it to be that far inward.

Tim

 

Excellent explanation, and thanks again to all for chiming in ideas. Really enjoy this forum.
Better pic- almost seems I need to shift door up at a 45 degree angle. The door is flush about at the key hole height and below.

 

I agree with Alan, after installing new weather striping i had to move out the top of the door 1/4 inch, tried using the striker and all that did was move everything out. You want to angle the door to get a better contour.

 

I'm thinking the pins/bushings (did you have someone lift the door while you look at the pins and see if there is play?)

Next Step (if the bushings are fine)
Ok, looking from the side, how are the gaps between the fender and the door and then the door and the quarter. Don't worry about the size of the gap, just how consistent it is from the top to bottom (divide in 3, up near the top just below the door handle, middle and then about 2-3" from the bottom)
Mooser

 

I suspect there are two issues conflicting here... bad hinge bushings causing the "drop" of the door at the rear, and unfortunate seam work on the rear quarter panels adding width to the rear fenders which were repaired without consideration of the slop in the hinges.

Can you lift the door significantly if it is open a bit, and did your bodyman redo the rear bonding seams during the paint prep???? If so, I suspect that getting a satisfactory fit for the doors might be a LOT of work and re-do.

 

With the door ajar, I can nudge it up about 1/8" ish. I compared L and R doors. The pins in the left door-see pic, are worn more than the right side, but the play must be attributable to something else since both doors have about the same vertical displacement

As far as bonding strips, I have no idea, the PO didn't have much info.


Lower pin



Upper pin

 

I think I'd go ahead and throw a new set of pins and bushings in before I started adjusting anything else. (small PIA job, not bad with a helper)

(Depending on the affect that has at the rear, you may need to bring the striker pin up)

If the door gaps look pretty good and you still need to move up a bit more, try shimming the bottom hinge (on the door) or moving the hinge to the rear a little on the car (It's a little easier than playing with the top hinge)
Then adjust the striker to match. Remember, Striker only move door more or less closed, not up/down.

My 2 cents
Mooser

 

Just in case....the above does not get you where you need / want to be.....!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ngs-video.html







Stay in tune.....

 

This needs to be done to mine also, my drivers side glass rubs at the top right corner and is hard to shut. I think the problem is the PO did not adjust them after her put on new weather stripping
Appreciate all the detailed suggestions