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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Default Fibreglass issues

Has anyone had any issues with fibreglass bubbling on the hood. I have had my third re spray and again in the same areas I have pimples (which expand over time to bubbles) forming particularly around the air cleaner and directly above the extractors. The hood gets hot but I am not aware 80 vets had insulation? I have been told that preparing the surface with wet and dry rub causes the fibreglass to absorb the wet which then releases under heat and under the new finish. This hood was rubbed wet and dry.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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It seems likely that your hood is soaked with oil or antifreeze either from an engine leak or from an A/C compressor failure. Is the underside of the hood oily/greasy to the touch?Wet sanding is an accepted practice in fiberglass body repair as long as the panels are allowed to dry 24-48 hours before topcoats are applied. "Dry Rubs" are tasty pre-barbecue spice mixtures which can enhance the flavors of meats but won't do much for the flavor of fiberglass. If you have oil or glycol soaked parts there are two ways to approach a repair... strip all the paint off the hood and heat the part (lying on blacktop in direct sun works well) then wash the surface with either a detergent (My preference) or wipe it with a solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner... repeat as required until no more contaminants surface; OR replace the hood and be done with it.
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Perfect excuse to buy that L88 hood you've always wanted!
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the answers, the underside of the hood looks normal and consistent and nothing is visibly wrong, I suspect not allowing dry time after wet and dry could be the issue. It is interesting that the bubble pattern is always in the same places and where the heat would be worst, but I would imagine that a hot hood is common on early vets and bubbling is not. As for the L88, this is an Ozzi car and so far I have baulked at import cost and possible damage.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by patto
Thanks for the answers, the underside of the hood looks normal and consistent and nothing is visibly wrong, I suspect not allowing dry time after wet and dry could be the issue. It is interesting that the bubble pattern is always in the same places and where the heat would be worst, but I would imagine that a hot hood is common on early vets and bubbling is not. As for the L88, this is an Ozzi car and so far I have baulked at import cost and possible damage.

I'm hearing that, customs,tax,duties, I recently broke a rear screen on my 78 (Stupid mower) Cost Just over $2000
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 02:54 AM
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are you letting the thinner gas off long enough between sprays? if not heat will push it out after the surface has dried
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 05:08 AM
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I actually bought a high rise aftermarket hood off Aust Ebay and it didn't fit, close but not enough side margin. It might just have been for an earlier model but this also worries me with a new hood. Also notice your photos, just imported 2 new rear spindles to re do the bearings and one spindle broke going up a hill. Wheelies and doughnuts are off my menu!
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 05:11 AM
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Thanks for the info particularly the thinner gas off any idea what time frame we are talking about? A day or so in the sun for instance, is there any way of checking moisture and such are gone?
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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they make guages for the testing, but depending on temp. and the products you are using , if specs call for 1/2 hour between sprays, give it a good 2-3 hours then adjust your technique to allow for the added time. a day in the sun would cook off anything, if I were having an issue, thats what I would do.
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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Thanks, are you in Alaska?
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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bout 6 months a year.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 02:42 AM
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Snow chains on the Vet?
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 09:58 AM
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we dont use chains ...anymore, studded tires now....but almost never drive it in the snow....s##t happens.
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