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When I lift the car off the ground by the frame this is what happens. The original steel springs have obviously been replaced by a fiberglass mono leaf. Thanks
Hi gs,
I believe you're seeing the result of using a spring with less arc in it when not under load, (compared to the 9 leaf original), and a spring bolt that's 2" or 3" longer than the original bolt.
Regards,
Alan
Hi gs,
I believe you're seeing the result of using a spring with less arc in it when not under load, (compared to the 9 leaf original), and a spring bolt that's 2" or 3" longer than the original bolt.
Regards,
Alan
So should I get a shorter bolt and snug it up unsprung?
How does it sit with the weight on?
Shorter bolts will raise the rear end, You've got a fair amount of thread there to adjust but if the rear is sitting where you like, leave it.
That being said, what's holding the Trailing arm up, just the shock? Hard to tell in the photo but it doesn't look to be hanging down as far as most when the load is off (judging by the u-joint there)
Also, is there a cotter pin in the end of the T/A - Spring bolt?
Mooser
That bolt adjusts the ride height. If you put a shorter bolt in the rear of the car will sit higher. Like 7T1vette it looks like you have a stiff spring in which case yes this is normal when you jack the car up. Going by the pic in your avatar it looks like the rear is sitting a little low.
Mike
Hi GS,
We'd need to see the car sitting on the ground, the ride height, and the spring/bolt relationship, to advise you about changing the bolt length.
As has been said, the long bolt is there is to correct a problem the change in rear spring has created.
Regards,
Alan
Hi mooser, no cotter pin because those long bolts come with that self-locking nut, not the usual slotted nut.
Hi GS,
Hi mooser, no cotter pin because those long bolts come with that self-locking nut, not the usual slotted nut.
Hi Alan
Just was curious as mine came with the self-locking nuts (nylocs) and were drilled to accept the supplied cotter pin as well. I was never sure if it was meant to be used with the original castle nuts or not so I put it anyway.
Mooser
Get us a pic of both wheels off the ground so we can see both sides at the same time.
Also, send us a pic of what it looks like with both wheels on the ground.
Both sides look the same when off the ground. Below is a pic of both wheels on the ground and some others. My tires measure 26" and from the ground to the fender measures 27 1/2" on the drivers side and 27 3/4" on the passenger side (no spare tire weight either). Our 1970 (red car) with spare tire weight, with same size tires (26") a stock spring measures 29" drivers side and 29 1/4" passenger side. Both cars have about a half tank of fuel in them. Also, why the 1/4" side to side difference on both cars?
[IMG]IMG_1969.JPG by akozub, on Flickr[/IMG] IMG_1966.JPG by akozub, on Flickr IMG_1968.JPG by akozub, on Flickr
Hi gs,
A car's ride height can be uneven for many reasons... springs, shocks, body mounts....etc.
The original tires, (F70-15), were a hair under 27" tall.
The original ride height was about 28" from the ground to the center of the wheel arch.
To my eye the blue car definitly looks low, and that's due in part to the length of the spring bolts. The original sprig bolts were 6 5/16" long and have VERY little adjustment.
To my eye the red car looks high. This can be for many reasons. Replacement spring for one?
Regards,
Alan
Ok, so I raised the rear about 3/4 of an inch.
[IMG]IMG_1976.JPG by akozub, on Flickr[/IMG]
Took it for a ride and rechecked everything and found the spring cracked!
[IMG]IMG_1974.JPG by akozub, on Flickr[/IMG]
I assume I now need to replace it. Can someone figure out what spring weight this is? And if I should go lighter or heavier?
[IMG]IMG_1972.JPG by akozub, on Flickr[/IMG]
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