Damaged Fusible Link
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
Damaged Fusible Link
I noticed the lower fusible link needs to be replaced. It looks like a huge capacitor. In searching local auto parts stores like Advanced Auto, they sell FL's but look nothing like the GM version. Can i actually use the kind Advanced Auto sells? The first image below is the damaged FL by the horn relay and the second image is what Advance Auto considers a FL. Thanks!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
Glenn, it was a good idea, but they only carry fuse and flasher kits, otherwise full harnesses. Confirmed by phone they don't carry fusible links. Appreciate the reply though. I'll keep searching other vendors.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Those 'cylinders' in the harness are just the termination blocks on the fusible link. The link is actually the wire between the horn relay and that termination block. That block is protection from the rest of the wiring harness catching fire...just a fire-retardant 'plug' between the fusible link and the rest of the wiring harness.
A viable fusible link should have wire which is 2 awg sizes smaller than the rest of the wire in that run; the insulation around the fusible link should be flame-proof; and it should have a termination block that separates it from the remaining wiring. So, buy a replacement fusible link of the correct size, cut the old one out including the termination block, and wire the new one in its place.
A viable fusible link should have wire which is 2 awg sizes smaller than the rest of the wire in that run; the insulation around the fusible link should be flame-proof; and it should have a termination block that separates it from the remaining wiring. So, buy a replacement fusible link of the correct size, cut the old one out including the termination block, and wire the new one in its place.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
From: NW sub of chicago IL
hear you go
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-Gauge-F...6363be&vxp=mtr
the seller also has some other clips and wiring parts you might need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-Gauge-F...6363be&vxp=mtr
the seller also has some other clips and wiring parts you might need.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
hear you go
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-Gauge-F...6363be&vxp=mtr
the seller also has some other clips and wiring parts you might need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-Gauge-F...6363be&vxp=mtr
the seller also has some other clips and wiring parts you might need.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Those will replace the "wire" portion of the fusible link. But, where the link and the harness wire are joined, there needs to be some solid barrier that will prevent the heat in the fusible link (just prior to melting) from igniting the adjacent 'regular' insulation on the harness wire. You could put a "ball" of JBWeld epoxy (putty stick) around each junction, I guess. But, just splicing the 'link' into the regualr harness wire won't eliminate fire risk.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
FWIW, fusible wire is wire that has a special insulation, designed to fail ahead/instead of the harness wire. I had a link fail a couple years ago. After the panic from seeing smoke rise from engine bay settled, I went to my local NAPA and bought a length of fusible wire in the correct gauge. I then cut out the old link and solder-joined the new length of fusible link wire into place, first slipping a length of heat shrink tubing over the harness wire. After the solder joints were made, I slid the shrink tube over the repair and set it to cover the repaired (soldered) joints. No issues - worked perfectly. It looks a little different than the original, not having the "cylinder-shaped" barrel any more, but it's very discreet and 100% functional.
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