Door Adjar Light
#1
Drifting
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Door Adjar Light
Yesterday, the "door adjar" light came on as it should when I closed the door improperly. Only problem is is that tje light stayed on. What might be causing the problem and where do I begin to look?
#2
Melting Slicks
There is a pin switch at the rear of the door that grounds out when the door is open. If he door is not keeping that switch in, the light will come on or the switch could be broken. I would start there.
#3
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Not sure what year your car is.
If you open the doors and hold the switches in (as explained above) and the light goes out... on my 72 there is a squared rubber bumper on the door jam that the switch hits. The new ones don't stick well or whatever and the passenger side one slips down a bit (especially when it's hot) and the light comes on.
Seems it's not quite in the center since it only drops a tiny bit
Mooser
If you open the doors and hold the switches in (as explained above) and the light goes out... on my 72 there is a squared rubber bumper on the door jam that the switch hits. The new ones don't stick well or whatever and the passenger side one slips down a bit (especially when it's hot) and the light comes on.
Seems it's not quite in the center since it only drops a tiny bit
Mooser
#4
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Thanks guys. Remiss in not mentioning the year - 69. Is that switch near the lock assembly?
#5
Team Owner
You can 'exercise' that switch manually, with the key in 'ON' position and the door open. Judge how far in that switch plunger must go "in" to make the light go out. Then use a little clay or Pla-Doh [to one side of that switch] and close door completely...then re-open to see how thick the clay remains. If the plunger height when the light comes on is about the same as the thickness of the clay, then it's likely that the light will be ON or intermittant when the door is closed.
As mentioned above, several (if not all) years had a little rubber pad stuck to the jamb of the door so the switch plunger would hit it instead of the door/paint. That pad thickness will add to the depth of the plunger and assure that door ajar light is OFF when door is closed.
Note: You do not want to force the plunger completely into the switch body; it should stick out just a bit when the door is closed.
As mentioned above, several (if not all) years had a little rubber pad stuck to the jamb of the door so the switch plunger would hit it instead of the door/paint. That pad thickness will add to the depth of the plunger and assure that door ajar light is OFF when door is closed.
Note: You do not want to force the plunger completely into the switch body; it should stick out just a bit when the door is closed.
#6
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Guess it's the same
The one at the front runs the courtesy lights, the one at the rear (switch on the door jam, rubber on the door) near the latch area) runs the ajar lamp
Mooser
The one at the front runs the courtesy lights, the one at the rear (switch on the door jam, rubber on the door) near the latch area) runs the ajar lamp
Mooser
#7
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Somehow, I thought the front switch had something to do with the circuit but now, the way you guys have explained it, I clearly understand where the switch is and how it works (makes contact). Thanks again!
#10
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Found the plunger and somehow it got bent. Strraightened it out and working fine now - will probably change them both down the road
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
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I've also found if you don't open the door all the way to get in/out (ie when the car is in the garage and you only partly open the door) I've caught on that plunger with my pant leg more than once.
Mooser
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New England Events Coordinator
If you switch out those switches be careful that the nut assy behind the fiberglass is secure to the body. I unscrewed my drivers side and heard it drop inside the body. The access panel does not allow much clearance to get in there to retrieve the part. I fabricated a new piece and successfuly replaced the assy/switch.
#14
How does the hood adjar switch work. The drawing shows one wire and ground. Mine doesn't work, Looks simple but also looks like it need another wire to work. I am replacing all three switches. Both door adjars work fine now but the one for the hood doesn't. any ideas?
ruken
ruken
#15
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The switch on the hood is for the alarm, not the ajar light.
Unless they changed it in later years....
M
Unless they changed it in later years....
M
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ruken (02-19-2016)
#17
Safety Car
Last edited by CanadaGrant; 02-19-2016 at 10:35 PM.
#18
Team Owner
My 72 does have the door ajar light lit when the hood is popped up. You don't need another wire. When the hood is down, it opens the switch. When you pop the hood even a little, the switch internally closes (completes the path to ground) and lights the same light as the door switches do. Make sure that switch has a good ground and the 12v wire is a solid connection. You can measure the switch with an ohmeter to make sure it's opening and closing. If it never makes contact, the door ajar light will not come on from the hood being ajar.
#19
Instructor
How does the hood adjar switch work. The drawing shows one wire and ground. Mine doesn't work, Looks simple but also looks like it need another wire to work. I am replacing all three switches. Both door adjars work fine now but the one for the hood doesn't. any ideas?
ruken
ruken
The hood ajar switch does the same thing when you open it by creating an earth.
#20
Instructor