I have been looking to buy and rebuild a C3. I'm in no rush and I'm waiting for the right deal to come along. Honestly I like the C3's but seem to be partial to the convertibles. I do like the 69' T-Top and have a shot at one that I'm trying to work out a deal on but I do like the convertbles and if I can get to the right price on this 74 convertible I may go that route. I also really like the 80-82 T-top to the point I'm thinking about maybe getting me 1 and then each of my boys one to restore with me. I have decided that I dont care for the style of the C4 just as a personal preference.

I was hoping you all could tell me what years and styles of the C3 is most collected or most valuable including the year and whether or not its the coupe or the convertible.

In the end I know that I should buy what I liek best but would like to know what is what in the C3 market.

 

If you're in the market for a C3 Convertible collectible then the 1968-'72 chrome bumper convertibles are desirable but if you're trying to restore and doing a project car I would watch the '68 as there are a lot of one off parts. The '69s are a better car as a lot of kinks had been worked out from the '68 design/production. Big block cars of those '68-'72 years, coupes and convertibles and the '70-'72 LT-1 convertibles and coupes are also all pretty good choices. The '75 was the last year of a true convertible C3 and is also a good choice but I believe is the lowest factory rated horsepower car of the entire C3 genre. As for the later C3 years the '78 Pace car and '78 Silver Anniversary 'vettes as well as well as the '82 CE are all pretty good choices. My advice, and as you state, don't be in a rush and be patient, don't get emotionally connected with the first couple of cars that you look over, look and consider many before you decide to buy and try to get the best condition car as your budget will allow and have someone who knows corvettes mechanically speaking and the numbers matching lingo etc. go along with you. Good luck in your hunting and keep us posted on your finds!

 

I would pick up a 69 ZL1 for collector value. After that, I guess I could settle for a 68-69 L88.

 

The 78-82's are good choices, with a lot of support. The 82 CE is another with a lot of one off parts that makes it a challenge some times. After 14 years of development they pretty much had the kinks worked out. There were a lot more modern creature comforts in the later year cars. The early stuff is getting pretty expensive to start with. The 74-77's just don't offer as much as the 78-82's (dated interior, lack of useable space in the car, really low HP output).
The c-3's are starting to come up in the $ for really nice cars.

 

Purely from the perspective of long-term investment, desireability, ease of 'restoration', and WOW factor, the first place I'd head is 1969 or 1970. I'm not sure there is a HUGE difference in later value, but I'd probably tip my hat to the '69 since it is the last year of "real" gills on the side.

So in order of "desirability" while still being easy to work on, I'd say '69 Vert, '69 Coupe, '70 Vert, then '70 Coupe.

Generally, I'd say big block cars are more valuable/desirable EXCEPT for the LT-1 option. That was a special engine. So, SPECIAL big-block, followed by the LT-1, then REGULAR big-blocks followed by the 350/350 with the base engine being at the bottom of the pecking order.

The 1971 and 1972 cars are also desirable, but you start getting into the smog equipment years and the lower compression. Granted, you can remove the equipment and do what you like with the engine to get the same HP as the "peak" year of 1970, but they are generally going to go for a smidge less.

1973 is unique in that it is the only car with a rubber front bumper and a kamm-tail rear. Some think that is MORE desireable, some less.

I really am partial to the early years, but all are special for their own reasons.

Bear in mind that if you get hung up on "numbers matching" and "judging" as things you'd like for your car, the entire experience will be considerably more expensive.

Case in point: The ignition went on my non-numbers-matching 1970. Turned out I have a true-blue LT-1 TI ignition (complete with box) in my vehicle. IF I had a real LT-1, it would have cost me a SOLID $1,500 to keep the car "right" and restore/reinstall the 40+ year old technology. HOWEVER, since I don't have that constraint, I purchased an awesome MSD ignition with 6AL box and superconductor wires for $700.

Since you will generally pay a good bit more for a "numbers matching" car up front, decide if you want to spend that money on a "correct" car or SAVE the money on the front end and put it toward having fun tinkering with a great vehicle.

Both ways are fine, I'm just giving you food for thought.

K

 

InB4 everyone says the year they own...

 

Cmb - purchase any of the coffee table Corvette history books. You can learn the history of these cars, then decide which are valuable and/or collectible.

 

if you are looking for an investment and a car that will appreciate the most, get the most affordable, desireable car. Zr1, LS6, L88,L89 cars are way too much and not guaranteed to appreciate. spending 100K then sell for 100K 5 years later is not my idea of an investment. buying a 20K car and selling for 25K 5 years down the road, is a return on investment.

look what the pace cars have done.. nothing.

the biggest unspoken investment out there is a 73 or 74 big block convertible.. if you can even find one..

 

The only truly collectable C3's [museum fare] are the very rare...and very expensive....C3's: L88's, ZL1's, ZL2's, etc. All the others are enjoyable "hobby" cars and some are more available than others.

If you want to be able to drive/use the car, then the 1970 BB, LT-1, or even the L46 car are some of the most desirable cars. Also, the '68 and '69 427 tri-power cars are great finds and should hold their value.

Other than those, 1968-72 'chrome bumper' C3's would be a general group that are favored. Some folks think the '78 Pace Car model is 'desirable'. But, there are so many of those around, they are not really that "valuable".

 

Other than the 74 with the 454, the rubber bumper cars typically do not bring the money or accolades that a nice driver quality chrome bumper car will. If that's important to you. And I mean no disrespect to owners of 74-82's.
As for the C4, granted they do not have the sexy swooping lines of a C3, but pop the hood open on one and take a good look. Pure race car inspired design. And if you want an affordable collectible corvette, the 96 Grand Sport model is really starting to bring big bucks, and the 90-95 ZR1's can be found at unbelievable low prices. Every time I begin to think of selling my 92, I'll gaze at it in a parking lot as I walk up to it, or in the garage sitting next to my 72 and know I just cannot let it go. Not today anyway.

 

One of the good "money combos" is a 68 or 69 Big block, convertible, with AC.
Extra points if the interior is the same color as the outside.
Triple extra points for red on red.

-W

PS: That whole bit about "68 only" parts is true - but not as daunting as it first sounds.

 

The most valuable and collectable C3 is the 79 L82 4 speed, brown with oyster interior.

 

If I was looking for an earlier c3 project to restore, I would go with a 1970 L-46 4 speed convertable

 

What's the ratio of the rear end in your avatar?

 

Hi cmb,
I agree with Mike that it would be a good idea for you to buy a book about 68-82 Corvettes.
Then you can determine what you like, (and can afford), and start trying to find it.
I don't think you can buy a Corvette with the idea of making money from it. You MIGHT make some on your investment, but it's not too likely, so you better buy what you will enjoy owning and driving, and then ENJOY the time you have with it.
Regards,
Alan

 

Vettebuyer (Moderator Steve) has a 1969 L-46 (350/350), four-speed black convertible. That's my choice. Hopefully he will post a pic.

 

Lmfao! Whatever it is, its what I want! I bet that *** end really burns rubber!

 

The most valuable C3? The 78 SA that I currently own

Good luck.

 

*** usual, it depends on what you want from the car....

something the .gov don't look after every damn year to make sure you have a cat *** trophic converter in place just like stock??

or all that pesky EGR crap? with restricted flow stock manifolds, much less the problems...

then we get into .gov inspections meaning you can''t update the drive train to something more driveable??

is it a track car? or a DD??

what are your mechanical limitations?? all out? redo your own auto trans for instance?? can you weld?? do you have a welder buddy like I do for a work around on that last one??

I wish I had a GREAT auto body buddy....oh well....

you need inspect ANY purchase really good for RUST....the outer body is fiberglass, but the rest of the car is steel, and guess what??

talking cars near 40 years old now.....think about it....

 

I`d like to see the full size version of that! A shrunk down avatar just ain`t enough!