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That's really coming out nice!! The West System is easy to use isn't it? I love the pumps, one pump resin one pump hardner, no muss no fuss, no guessing. Once you get to the finish work, I'd suggest using the 407 filler if you need it. It's easy to sand and gives a very clean edge. Here's what I used for getting the contours right on my repairs. I think I found this gauge at Sears. The contours you'll have on the bonding strips aren't as complicated as these, but using a gauge like this will make getting it right easy. Use the other side of the car as a template, and transfer the contour over, that easy!
The good side:
And now the soon to be other good side. If you look you can see there's still just a bit of sanding on the filler to get the contour just right..
Thanks Damoroso! Yup, I do love the simplicity of the West pumps, makes it a no-brainer to use. I did get some of the 407 filler and was thinking of using that to sharpen up the lines on the front and rear fenders, they're fairly 'rounded over' and I want to get a nice crisp line if possible. Great idea on the contour gauge, looking very nice.
A local guy that I met at a car show a couple weeks ago stopped by today to look at my car. He recommended that I use spray filler on the whole car once I get the major body work done. He said that these cars are far to wavy to spot fill and that it would be much easier / better to use a spray filler on the whole car. Any thoughts on that? What are you planning to do next after you get all of your body work done? I'm really far off from that point, but I always have that next step in the back of my mind.
I'm not inclined to use the "spray filler" on the whole car. This car had it on the front clip and I took it off (we'll see if it's under the rest of the paint in a couple weeks...). That stuff was covering a bunch of smaller repairs that weren't done very well, and were still showing through the paint. I really hate that idea, sounds like a big shortcut instead of doing things right...but maybe it's just me, I'm certainly no expert!
When I'm done with the repairs, I'll use a high build primer and block it using a guide coat, I should be able to get it very straight that way. Once it's blocked the final primer will go on, then paint. I'm not sure of the products yet, I'll have to talk to my painter. Right now I'm using Dupont S-4240S Acrylic primer to check the repairs. This is the primer the paint store suggested.
I'm not inclined to use the "spray filler" on the whole car. This car had it on the front clip and I took it off (we'll see if it's under the rest of the paint in a couple weeks...). That stuff was covering a bunch of smaller repairs that weren't done very well, and were still showing through the paint. I really hate that idea, sounds like a big shortcut instead of doing things right...but maybe it's just me, I'm certainly no expert!
When I'm done with the repairs, I'll use a high build primer and block it using a guide coat, I should be able to get it very straight that way. Once it's blocked the final primer will go on, then paint. I'm not sure of the products yet, I'll have to talk to my painter. Right now I'm using Dupont S-4240S Acrylic primer to check the repairs. This is the primer the paint store suggested.
I'm definitely not interested in a shortcut method if that's what it is. Too much invested already to see the value in going that route. I'll take a look at that Dupont primer, thanks for sharing, I look forward to your next project update!
Originally Posted by zwede
They're only wavy if someone has taken a DA sander to it without knowing what they're doing. From the factory the panels were quite straight!
A medium build primer like PPG K36 will build more than enough for perfectly flat results.
I have more faith in GM than this particular guy does. My panels weren't that bad so I'm inclined to agree on the medium build primer idea. If the K36 is the initial med-build primer, is that also final primer or does that depend completely on compatibility with color choice and type?
If the K36 is the initial med-build primer, is that also final primer or does that depend completely on compatibility with color choice and type?
K36 is a light gray color and we didn't use a tinted primer before spraying torch red. Some painters like adding some tint to the primer to match the top coat. Not sure if it's just personal preference of the painter?