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Adjusting Front Grille Molding

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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Default Adjusting Front Grille Molding

Not sure if these pictures show it, but the drivers side front grille molding is not square - sags in the outer corner. Anyone have experience adjusting theirs and mind sharing with me how you successfully did it? Thanks



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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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Hi L,
I believe your 68/69 has studs that pass through the lower valance fiberglass, and are tightened with nuts or speed nuts.
Have you loosened those nuts and tried to reposition the molding a bit?
Is there any evidence of fiberglass damage in that area that might be causing the molding to be forced to mount in an awkward way?
Maybe?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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Glad you posted. I have gaps about like yours on my 72. Just havent gotten that far on my list too work on it.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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Whoops...my gaps are in the middle with the center pieces...I have seen most with almost no gap there..
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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I did this about 2 years ago. I had it on the lift at eye level and tweaked it back and forth for about 3 hours. It finally lined up probably better than the factory every did. It just took a lot of time and moving A few things and I even shimmed a little. Not sure if the 68 is the same. My 72 but I'm sure the same principal is there. Being at eye level really helped though.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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Alan, you are correct sir, there are studs in the rear channel and are held in place with speed nuts. I noticed a couple of the holes in the fiberglass are oversized and thus making the molding lose. Should I re-glass and drill new holes for a tighter fit? Also, how do I also reduce the gaps between the Bumperettes and the molding, and also at the top of the moldings leading up to the bumper? Thanks!
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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Thanks Gordon. Here is the back side of the molding - not the greatest picture...

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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 07:24 AM
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Hi L,
I believe G's 72 is a bit different since the moulding is part of the grill. It's mounted with screws and speed nuts. The adjustments move it in it's entirety.
From what you say it may be that the holes will need to be filled. It's hard to say without seeing them.
The 2 bumperettes have some adjustment too. They each have a bolt at the top and bottom which allows them to move a little bit.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 08:54 AM
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I'm trying to envision exactly what you have, but I'm thinking that you might be able to adjust the part by putting some [small fender] washers under those retaining nuts, holding the chrome molding where you want it and then tightening the nuts down. If that doesn't work, you may have to patch over the enlarged holes and redrill where the studs need to be.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi L,
I believe G's 72 is a bit different since the moulding is part of the grill. It's mounted with screws and speed nuts. The adjustments move it in it's entirety.
From what you say it may be that the holes will need to be filled. It's hard to say without seeing them.
The 2 bumperettes have some adjustment too. They each have a bolt at the top and bottom which allows them to move a little bit.
Regards,
Alan
Finally got a chance to pull the molding off and found that there was some apparent repair made previously. As you can see, the top right corner hole is gigantic, and the bottom holes descend in height. Looks like bubba did a "close enough" repair. Lucky me

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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Hi L,
Yes, it looks like some body work was done.
Could you make a cardboard template of the right-side and then 'flip' it for the left-side to see what the fiberglass shape should look like?
That's how I'd start. It'll give you some idea what areas are 'off', and by how much.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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Alan 71 that is a good idea to look at the other side, and flip the template for symmetry. It may help to either fix it, or balance it out some.

kdf
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi L,
Yes, it looks like some body work was done.
Could you make a cardboard template of the right-side and then 'flip' it for the left-side to see what the fiberglass shape should look like?
That's how I'd start. It'll give you some idea what areas are 'off', and by how much.
Regards,
Alan
First thing tomorrow morning - thanks for the template idea!
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 12:45 AM
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Had a similar problem when I put the front together on my 68....moldings were way off had to elongate a couple of the holes with a Dremel to get them to fit right. A small round file will work also, just be sure to wear a mask and gloves
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
Had a similar problem when I put the front together on my 68....moldings were way off had to elongate a couple of the holes with a Dremel to get them to fit right. A small round file will work also, just be sure to wear a mask and gloves
Randall, thanks for the safety tip - didn't even think of that, but am on the same page using a dremel if necessary to get the right fit

My new grilles arrived from Willcox this week so I'll be replacing those this morning too (amazing how vendors don't include new screws). Beautiful day/weekend here in NJ, so I can't wait to get this wrapped up and drive all weekend with my corrected grille!

Last edited by Lupigiato; Jul 21, 2012 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 09:07 PM
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The only correct, captive washer screws for 68-69 grilles are sold by ZIP and only in the GR-365 set with u-nuts. But the u-nuts are only half of the length of the originals on the outer surface that the grille meets. These screws are also correct for holding the headlamp shields on. The ZSF-324 screw set just has a washer head in one piece.
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