Trailing arm washers
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Oakland California
Trailing arm washers
Hi guys, so I installed the rear suspension and forgot to instal washers in the trailing arm bolt. My question is, does it have a locking washer on the nut side and a flat washer with a locking washer on the head side of the bolt? This is going to be a pain in the rear to do again
.
.
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
The replacement set I got had a thick flat washer and a lock washer (and castle nut)
I ended up putting flat washers on both sides (under bolt head and under the nut).
The washer under the head of the bolt will be to spread the load out (bolt shouldn't really turn during use) and there isn't that much side-pressure on the bolt (mostly shear)
Your probably OK to leave it out and just put the one flat under the nut.
That being said, now is the easiest it will ever be to take the bolt out and do it "right"
Mooser
I ended up putting flat washers on both sides (under bolt head and under the nut).
The washer under the head of the bolt will be to spread the load out (bolt shouldn't really turn during use) and there isn't that much side-pressure on the bolt (mostly shear)
Your probably OK to leave it out and just put the one flat under the nut.
That being said, now is the easiest it will ever be to take the bolt out and do it "right"
Mooser
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
The replacement set I got had a thick flat washer and a lock washer (and castle nut)
I ended up putting flat washers on both sides (under bolt head and under the nut).
The washer under the head of the bolt will be to spread the load out (bolt shouldn't really turn during use) and there isn't that much side-pressure on the bolt (mostly shear)
Your probably OK to leave it out and just put the one flat under the nut.
That being said, now is the easiest it will ever be to take the bolt out and do it "right"
Mooser
I ended up putting flat washers on both sides (under bolt head and under the nut).
The washer under the head of the bolt will be to spread the load out (bolt shouldn't really turn during use) and there isn't that much side-pressure on the bolt (mostly shear)
Your probably OK to leave it out and just put the one flat under the nut.
That being said, now is the easiest it will ever be to take the bolt out and do it "right"
Mooser
. Another question: what size washer and nuts are required for it? I might just go get them after school and knock them out tomorrow.
Last edited by jordan89; Jul 26, 2012 at 06:57 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I think I'm just going to go ahead and take the bolts out and do it right. I hope it really is easy to do right now. I might just go with the flat washer behind the head, and the locking nut behind the castle nut. I thought I was done with the rear suspension.
Another question: what size washer and nuts are required for it? I might just go get them after school and knock them out tomorrow.
. Another question: what size washer and nuts are required for it? I might just go get them after school and knock them out tomorrow.
Loose the lock washers and put a decent quality thick washer (not too thick, even a good quality regular washer would work) under the head, once you put the bolt back in, make sure the thread is fully exposed through the frame and decide what washer for the nut side.
Make up a wedge of wood and put it under the T/A where it enters the pocket. Lightly tap it in place by hand and then remove the bolt, it should help hold the position at least somewhat
Mooser
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
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From: Oakland California
Pretty sure they are 7/16 fine castle nuts.
Loose the lock washers and put a decent quality thick washer (not too thick, even a good quality regular washer would work) under the head, once you put the bolt back in, make sure the thread is fully exposed through the frame and decide what washer for the nut side.
Make up a wedge of wood and put it under the T/A where it enters the pocket. Lightly tap it in place by hand and then remove the bolt, it should help hold the position at least somewhat
Mooser
Loose the lock washers and put a decent quality thick washer (not too thick, even a good quality regular washer would work) under the head, once you put the bolt back in, make sure the thread is fully exposed through the frame and decide what washer for the nut side.
Make up a wedge of wood and put it under the T/A where it enters the pocket. Lightly tap it in place by hand and then remove the bolt, it should help hold the position at least somewhat
Mooser
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Well guys, I got the task done today
. Unfortunately the driver side was a PITA
. I got the passenger side done in about 30 minutes. The driver side arm twisted a bit, so I struggled to get the bolt back in. It sucks not having any help in situations like this.
. Unfortunately the driver side was a PITA. I got the passenger side done in about 30 minutes. The driver side arm twisted a bit, so I struggled to get the bolt back in. It sucks not having any help in situations like this.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
I hear you on that one, sometimes spend almost as much time rigging something up to do it myself as it does to actually do it.
At least now you know it's the way GM wanted it and that little question in the back of your head of if it's OK or not can go away.
At least now you know it's the way GM wanted it and that little question in the back of your head of if it's OK or not can go away.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
[QUOTE=Mooser;1581423683]45-55 ft-lb, then to the next cotter pin hole
Also, they should be tightened with the suspension in the "loaded" position
How am I suppose to get a torque wrench on there
? You're being lots of help Mooser and I really appreciate it.
Also, they should be tightened with the suspension in the "loaded" position
How am I suppose to get a torque wrench on there
? You're being lots of help Mooser and I really appreciate it.
Last edited by jordan89; Jul 28, 2012 at 12:18 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Oh, you'll need to take the body off for that...
But if you insist on leaving the body on.
Method 1
put a 7/16 nut/bolt in a bench-vise and tighten it to around the 45 mark with the torque wrench and then use a long boxed end wrench to move it a little more and get the "feel" of how tight is should be and then go heavier on the car.
Method 2
Us an extension (basically a crows-foot but longer) and compensate on the torque setting.
(my set is about 3" long from center of bolt to center of the drive, with a 2' torque wrench (drive to where your hand is) will increase the torque about 5 ft/lb
Mooser
But if you insist on leaving the body on.
Method 1
put a 7/16 nut/bolt in a bench-vise and tighten it to around the 45 mark with the torque wrench and then use a long boxed end wrench to move it a little more and get the "feel" of how tight is should be and then go heavier on the car.
Method 2
Us an extension (basically a crows-foot but longer) and compensate on the torque setting.
(my set is about 3" long from center of bolt to center of the drive, with a 2' torque wrench (drive to where your hand is) will increase the torque about 5 ft/lb
Mooser