Rant - center console restoration
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Rant - center console restoration
So, my original center console ashtray lid was pretty banged up. I decided I'd give it a thorough sanding (down to bare aluminum) and paint it back up with some Krylon semi-flat.
Turned out AWESOME.
Installed it in the new center console, 12 hours later, gave it a quick test fit, and scraped a 1/4" chunk of the paint off.
So... after some bending of the console arms and filing of the inside edge of the center console where the lid passes through, I've got it PERFECT.
But I have to repaint those scrapes because the bare metal edge is JUUUUST visible...
Second try painting it and had some fat nasty blobs. It's clear my touch-up sanding didn't do the trick.
So I sanded it down to bare metal and built it up again... primer looked great.
Got a !@%$%^UI&&#! RUN when I shot the black.
ugh.
And the first try looked AMAZING.
Turned out AWESOME.
Installed it in the new center console, 12 hours later, gave it a quick test fit, and scraped a 1/4" chunk of the paint off.
So... after some bending of the console arms and filing of the inside edge of the center console where the lid passes through, I've got it PERFECT.
But I have to repaint those scrapes because the bare metal edge is JUUUUST visible...
Second try painting it and had some fat nasty blobs. It's clear my touch-up sanding didn't do the trick.
So I sanded it down to bare metal and built it up again... primer looked great.
Got a !@%$%^UI&&#! RUN when I shot the black.
ugh.
And the first try looked AMAZING.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 129
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
Blegh. I'm almost to the point where I'm A-OK with my 'driver' interior. Looks original.
Make something TOO perfect, then you have to KEEP it perfect.
Just like my "distressed" coffee table. It just looks like they had a bunch of kids wail on it with Matchbox cars before it left the factory. So when MY kids wail on it with Matchbox cars, it is impossible to notice.
Not perfect is perfect sometimes.
I feel your pain, though.
Make something TOO perfect, then you have to KEEP it perfect.
Just like my "distressed" coffee table. It just looks like they had a bunch of kids wail on it with Matchbox cars before it left the factory. So when MY kids wail on it with Matchbox cars, it is impossible to notice.
Not perfect is perfect sometimes.
I feel your pain, though.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 61
From: Southern NH
so are those replacement consoles junk? I need a new one and keep hearing stories of the ashtray doors not fitting right. Do I need to get the replacement ashtray door for it to work properly, or are those junk too?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,278
Likes: 4,372
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi SR,
I believe there was no primer under those trim parts originally; and, there was a very thin layer of black paint. Maybe your problem was caused by too much paint?
Also, the Krylon #1613 re-coats and blends well, but the #51613 doesn't; it's very different paint.
Which are you using?
Regards,
Alan
I believe there was no primer under those trim parts originally; and, there was a very thin layer of black paint. Maybe your problem was caused by too much paint?
Also, the Krylon #1613 re-coats and blends well, but the #51613 doesn't; it's very different paint.
Which are you using?
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you read the label on most spray cans, it takes several days to fully cure. But, we all want to install that 'good looking piece', just as soon as the paint is 'dry' (but not cured). All spray can paint should be given 2-4 days to cure before reinstallation, so that new scrapes/scratches won't be put back on that piece.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Many of aerosol paints will lift if the second coat is not applied within a hour of less. Or you have to wait 48hrs to re-coat. If the paint lifts its best just to use a solvent and wipe the paint off and start over. 
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Alan - it was this style bottle: 
I've got my work cut out for me to try to fix the latest run... once it's done this thing will sit for a week.
You're correct that I had more paint - but it scraped down to bare metal.
I didn't get to the "loose" fit I wanted until I bent the arms and filed the plastic a bit. (This is a 78, btw)
I know now that I should have fitted first and painted second... and waited a lot longer.
I've got my work cut out for me to try to fix the latest run... once it's done this thing will sit for a week.
You're correct that I had more paint - but it scraped down to bare metal.
I didn't get to the "loose" fit I wanted until I bent the arms and filed the plastic a bit. (This is a 78, btw)
I know now that I should have fitted first and painted second... and waited a lot longer.
Last edited by Shark Racer; Jul 31, 2012 at 05:26 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,962
Likes: 5
From: Schererville IN
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 67
From: Midland Ontario
NCM Sinkhole Donor
You could have let the paint dry for a month....it's the POS part that the door won't fit into. Waited 9 weeks to get the replacement console, new plastic rivets to mount the door....not even close to being able to close it, at least 1/4" of the lid is blocked by the opening.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
Brian - mine fit completely awfully at first.
I ended up installing it closed and bending the arms until it fit pretty flush at the bottom.
Then, I opened it slowly and checked for where it was rubbing and filed it clear.
It's not perfect, but it's better than factory and now I just need to fix that GD run in the paint.
I ended up installing it closed and bending the arms until it fit pretty flush at the bottom.
Then, I opened it slowly and checked for where it was rubbing and filed it clear.
It's not perfect, but it's better than factory and now I just need to fix that GD run in the paint.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 67
From: Midland Ontario
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Filing was my only option also, when I measured it against the original it was 1/8" shorter, measured front to back. Wasn't cheap to purchase either when I factored in shipping/duty.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 53,986
Likes: 6,212
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
You don't *have* to paint it all black... 
My buddy painted this for my '68 in 1978, then I put it on my '73, then another '73... kept it all these years. Actually put it on my current '69, but it was a little too "70s custom" for my taste now, so I keep it on the shelf...
My buddy painted this for my '68 in 1978, then I put it on my '73, then another '73... kept it all these years. Actually put it on my current '69, but it was a little too "70s custom" for my taste now, so I keep it on the shelf...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 766
Likes: 97
From: Lake Norman, NC
Hi all. FWIW, I have found excellent results in using SEM brand "Trim Black." It flows like, well, butta! Seriously, I've had spotty luck with Krylon but perfect results with Trim Black EVERY time. Spray a LIGHT coat on and watch it flow to perfect coverage. At $10 or so a can, it's a bit more $$$ than Krylon or the other common brands, however, one you use it, you'll never go back -- promise. I buy it at my local auto paint/paint supply house. I used it for my shift console/ash tray door, my fiberglass interior qtr trim panels, my drip rail blackout at the rear of the hood surround, the blackout on the front ends of my doors, etc. I keep a can on the shelf...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,372
Likes: 215
From: Peoria Arizona
It's a great way to cure paint though. Friend of mine has an old oven in his shop just for this purpose.