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Rust on frame ?

Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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Default Rust on frame ?

Besides sandblasting what have people done to remove the rust from the frame before putting on epoxy? What is the rust remover chemical that work the best? I wire wheeled 90% of it off but, would like to treat the spots that can't be hit by the wheel.


Thanks,
Danny
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:22 AM
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are you opposed to getting it sand blasted?
aside from a chemical dip, it's probably the most efficient way to remove the rust.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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Sand blast is easiest. Chemical dip will get the inside. You will need to treat the inside after though. I used POR15 on mine but there are several rust encapsulation paints available. Epoxy is good but POR is better, that stuff is very tough.
You can get a spot blaster from Harbour Freight pretty cheap to hit the small areas left if you have it 90% already
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RPOZ4Z
are you opposed to getting it sand blasted?
aside from a chemical dip, it's probably the most efficient way to remove the rust.
No, I just want to check to see if there are other options. I have the Eastwood pressure blaster but I need to work out the kinks in it. Clogging issue in the tip. (Media properly too large). Just curious on chemicals since there are so many vendors which one really works if used.


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Danny
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hicswa
No, I just want to check to see if there are other options. I have the Eastwood pressure blaster but I need to work out the kinks in it. Clogging issue in the tip. (Media properly too large). Just curious on chemicals since there are so many vendors which one really works if used.


Thanks,
Danny
We had the same clogging issue on a friend sandblaster. A moisture remover for the air line was all we needed, air was too wet, making sand stickint in the noozle.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Denpo
We had the same clogging issue on a friend sandblaster. A moisture remover for the air line was all we needed, air was too wet, making sand stickint in the noozle.
Hey Dennis, wassup???

GENE
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Hey Dennis, wassup???

GENE
Hello my fellow Vettemod friends! @ Dennis, I have 40 mesh Black bueaty in the sand blaster. Eastwood said to go to 80 or 100 mesh.. What grit size did you use? I don't think moisture was the proplem since it didn't work from the start. I'll figure it out this weekend. But thanks for the reply

Danny
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by hicswa
Hello my fellow Vettemod friends! @ Dennis, I have 40 mesh Black bueaty in the sand blaster. Eastwood said to go to 80 or 100 mesh.. What grit size did you use? I don't think moisture was the proplem since it didn't work from the start. I'll figure it out this weekend. But thanks for the reply

Danny
Damnit Danny, what's the rule #1 of the club again?


Don't know the grit size, you should ask 1Michel.
At the time his system was kinda rough (DIY), and adding a water separator was one of the best improvement against clogging.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:25 AM
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I take mine to the sandblaster and straight to the powder coater from there.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:42 AM
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I had my frame dipped in a non-destructive electroylic bath, then dipped again in a zinc phoshate tank. Cost was $2000.00 (stripping was $1200.00 and the coating was of course $800.00). This included the frame, tranmission and fuel tank crossmembers, plus the frame extension. As mentioned, dip stripping gets inside the frame rails; areas too difficult to reach with sand.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 80Baby
I had my frame dipped in a non-destructive electroylic bath, then dipped again in a zinc phoshate tank. Cost was $2000.00 (stripping was $1200.00 and the coating was of course $800.00). This included the frame, tranmission and fuel tank crossmembers, plus the frame extension. As mentioned, dip stripping gets inside the frame rails; areas too difficult to reach with sand.
Possibly the best way ever.
Chelating process (molasse) is also very gentle with non rusted metal.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Denpo
Damnit Danny, what's the rule #1 of the club again?


Don't know the grit size, you should ask 1Michel.
At the time his system was kinda rough (DIY), and adding a water separator was one of the best improvement against clogging.
My bad!
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13451248831714
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 03:47 PM
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Default Weld it after sandblast

If you would like to 'tighten' up the frame, have the seam bead welded the entire length on both frame rails.
The frame rails were only welded about 8" apart down the length originally. A full length bead will stop any flex.
Good thing to do after the sandblast/stripping before you epoxy.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by hicswa
My bad!
Just kiddin' of course
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Denpo
Possibly the best way ever.
Chelating process (molasse) is also very gentle with non rusted metal.




Works, just a little slow. Cost about $.25 a pownd. Get it at feed store.
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 06:12 AM
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By the way with the Molasses method, be prepaired to have stuff growing in it when you're done. The mixture can be dumped as it's Bio degradable.
For A arms and springs, a 20 gal. drum setting around works well.
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 06:51 AM
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For $1200 I think i'd put that towards a new C4 suspension/frame to go under the C3. Although I'm pretty sure those cost a ton themselves.
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