Idle stop solenoid - Now there's your problem
#1
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Idle stop solenoid - Now there's your problem
In the process of changing the manifold I figured it was a good time to see why the idle stop solenoid would hardly move and then toast the fuse.
Noticed flats on the side of the can that looked like it was in a vice or had pliers on it at some point.
Huge resistance on the spade to can measurement.
Bent back the stakes and pulled the core out and found this
The end of the spool is broken off and still inside the can (you can sort of see it there)
The wire is mangled and broken in at least 3 places I can see without digging. Obviously shorted out in many spots. I can see remnants of coil-wrap but nothing there now.
Now just need to decide whether to make a new spool and re-wind or try to find a replacement...
On a more positive note, the intake is almost ready to swap in (as long as I stop looking for problems)
Mooser
Noticed flats on the side of the can that looked like it was in a vice or had pliers on it at some point.
Huge resistance on the spade to can measurement.
Bent back the stakes and pulled the core out and found this
The end of the spool is broken off and still inside the can (you can sort of see it there)
The wire is mangled and broken in at least 3 places I can see without digging. Obviously shorted out in many spots. I can see remnants of coil-wrap but nothing there now.
Now just need to decide whether to make a new spool and re-wind or try to find a replacement...
On a more positive note, the intake is almost ready to swap in (as long as I stop looking for problems)
Mooser
#2
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Hi Mooser,
No need to "look for problems".
They will find you on their own even if you hide under the bed.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
No need to "look for problems".
They will find you on their own even if you hide under the bed.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
#3
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Apparently these aren't as available as I had hoped.
Made up a mandrel and re-rolled the can back to round, retrieved the end of the spool and since it was a clean break I just used some cyano to put it back, then a little resin into the corner for support.
Check the original wire, 28g, luckily (oddly) I had a spool laying around from an old project
Couldn't get a reading from the old wire so had to go by weight. 56.78g worked out to close to 260' (about 18.2ohms calc)
Mounted lightly to an internal mandrel it up on the old lathe
Spent too much time working out a thread cycle and program look with some averaging to account for the change in diameter of the spool as it wound (really virtually insignificant)
Checked the resistance and it was a little high, stripped off about 10 feet and it looks close enough (17.9). Wrapped it up and soldered the tab
Bench test and everything seems to work just fine, total time invested, probably 3 times what it's worth but I couldn't find one anywhere around here.
Reassemble everything and re-stake the can tomorrow. (went out to a semi-local cruise nite for the evening, not a bad show, I think they said 250 cars)
I think everything is now ready to change the manifold over.
Who says I'm not obsessed
Made up a mandrel and re-rolled the can back to round, retrieved the end of the spool and since it was a clean break I just used some cyano to put it back, then a little resin into the corner for support.
Check the original wire, 28g, luckily (oddly) I had a spool laying around from an old project
Couldn't get a reading from the old wire so had to go by weight. 56.78g worked out to close to 260' (about 18.2ohms calc)
Mounted lightly to an internal mandrel it up on the old lathe
Spent too much time working out a thread cycle and program look with some averaging to account for the change in diameter of the spool as it wound (really virtually insignificant)
Checked the resistance and it was a little high, stripped off about 10 feet and it looks close enough (17.9). Wrapped it up and soldered the tab
Bench test and everything seems to work just fine, total time invested, probably 3 times what it's worth but I couldn't find one anywhere around here.
Reassemble everything and re-stake the can tomorrow. (went out to a semi-local cruise nite for the evening, not a bad show, I think they said 250 cars)
I think everything is now ready to change the manifold over.
Who says I'm not obsessed
Last edited by Mooser; 11-21-2017 at 08:30 PM.
#5
Le Mans Master
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A bit of powder coat and everything back together (how they originally grounded the coil inside the can is still a bit of a mystery) but it works tickity boo.
Ready to re-install on the new manifold
Another $100 solution to a $5 problem
Mooser
Ready to re-install on the new manifold
Another $100 solution to a $5 problem
Mooser
Last edited by Mooser; 11-21-2017 at 08:30 PM.
#8
Le Mans Master
Nicely done Mooser. I probably wouold have skipped the math part of figuring distance & resistance and just wound it up.I'm just crazy that way. On a few other solenoids I've seen. There's been a glob of solder at the seam of the can end. presumably this is where the other end of the coil wire grounds to the can
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Mooser
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Le Mans Master
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Those are neat little actuators, what are they from R/C stuff?
Mooser
Mooser
#14
Melting Slicks
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Now, you just have to get the word processor going and draft up a new label for the body of that solenoid.
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Hi Mooser,
I've found that once you realize that no SANE person would be trying to fix what you're fixing, it really doesn't matter how much time, and almost how much $, it takes to do it.
SOME PARTS JUST NEED TO BE REPAIRED!
Regards,
Alan
I've found that once you realize that no SANE person would be trying to fix what you're fixing, it really doesn't matter how much time, and almost how much $, it takes to do it.
SOME PARTS JUST NEED TO BE REPAIRED!
Regards,
Alan
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#18
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