Detailing questions??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
Detailing questions??
I have started to do a through detail in the engine compartment which means taking everything apart, clean, and repaint but some moron had the engine bay sprayed with clear. Now it's yellowing and cracking everywhere. I don't have a budget to replace items so that's why I'm refurbishing but how in the heck can you get that stuff off?? I've tried lacquer thinner, steel wool, and mineral spirits and can't get that stuff off the rubber parts. Also how would I go about repainting the valve covers?? By the way this is on my 82 and those covers are black with silver ribbs but the silver is very dull... Would it last if I used a silver model paint pen on those ribbs?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,247
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From: Glen Allen, VA
I too painted mine valve covers Krylon #1613 Semi Flat black, then sanded the ribs to get the silver showing. The 1613 is no longer available on store shelves, but have read that industrial suppliers, such as Grainger still have it. 5 years later, they still look great. No need for high heat paint IMO.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
It is best to use a chemical stripper to remove any/all paint from the valve covers (or anything else you are painting) before you prime/paint. Otherwise, the edges of the old paint will show through into the new paint.
You could use either semi-flat/satin black paint or semi-gloss black, depending on the look you want to achieve. I think those were originally semi-gloss black. Either way, you want to use a paint that will withstand up to 500F, since it is in the engine compartment. Dupli-color engine enamel or VHT hi-temp paints are made for that purpose.
You could use either semi-flat/satin black paint or semi-gloss black, depending on the look you want to achieve. I think those were originally semi-gloss black. Either way, you want to use a paint that will withstand up to 500F, since it is in the engine compartment. Dupli-color engine enamel or VHT hi-temp paints are made for that purpose.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
It is best to use a chemical stripper to remove any/all paint from the valve covers (or anything else you are painting) before you prime/paint. Otherwise, the edges of the old paint will show through into the new paint.
You could use either semi-flat/satin black paint or semi-gloss black, depending on the look you want to achieve. I think those were originally semi-gloss black. Either way, you want to use a paint that will withstand up to 500F, since it is in the engine compartment. Dupli-color engine enamel or VHT hi-temp paints are made for that purpose.
You could use either semi-flat/satin black paint or semi-gloss black, depending on the look you want to achieve. I think those were originally semi-gloss black. Either way, you want to use a paint that will withstand up to 500F, since it is in the engine compartment. Dupli-color engine enamel or VHT hi-temp paints are made for that purpose.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Off the car.
Your valve covers are magnesium. The tops of the ribs may not be an exact silver color. They should be bare magnesium with no color top coat.
Try Google > Images. You are likely to turn up any number of 82 underhood color pictures you can use as photo references.
Your valve covers are magnesium. The tops of the ribs may not be an exact silver color. They should be bare magnesium with no color top coat.
Try Google > Images. You are likely to turn up any number of 82 underhood color pictures you can use as photo references.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
Off the car.
Your valve covers are magnesium. The tops of the ribs may not be an exact silver color. They should be bare magnesium with no color top coat.
Try Google > Images. You are likely to turn up any number of 82 underhood color pictures you can use as photo references.
Your valve covers are magnesium. The tops of the ribs may not be an exact silver color. They should be bare magnesium with no color top coat.
Try Google > Images. You are likely to turn up any number of 82 underhood color pictures you can use as photo references.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
I've done L-82 valve covers and did not use sand paper. Lacquer thinner on a rag over your fingertip will take off tacky paint and won't leave any sand scratches behind.
A light scrape with a single edged razor blade or a hobby knife will also do the trick.
The old 5-ball Krylon semi-flat black is now classified as an "industrial coating". You can get it through industrial coatings outlets. The old formula is not what you can currently get off the shelf at Wally World. Lots of folks say the new formula Krylon semi-flat black has a tad more sheen to it than the older 5-ball.
A light scrape with a single edged razor blade or a hobby knife will also do the trick.
The old 5-ball Krylon semi-flat black is now classified as an "industrial coating". You can get it through industrial coatings outlets. The old formula is not what you can currently get off the shelf at Wally World. Lots of folks say the new formula Krylon semi-flat black has a tad more sheen to it than the older 5-ball.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Aug 20, 2012 at 02:45 PM.