I am looking to rechrome my original valve covers and ignition shield on my 69/427. I have just recently heard about flash chrome. How does this differ from "regular" chrome? Any recommendations for the work to be done in NY?

 

Found this through Google: "Flash" chroming is a very thin layer of nickel and chrome only. It doesn't last long and it'll won't look right on stainless

I always understood flash chroming amounted to cheaper and quicker than regular chrome plating.

 

"Flash chrome" is pretty much what Chevy did on the original valve covers....very little. If you must keep the original covers, you should take them to a good chrome shop and let them "do their thing". You will end up with a much better quality part than the original covers.

If you aren't into spending 'excess' money for keeping stuff original, just put them up on eBay and use that money to defray the cost of a new set of covers. It will be much less expensive to buy a new [reproduction] cover set than to have yours replated.

 

Process: Flash hard chrome plating is an electrolytic process utilising a chromic acid-based electrolyte. The component requiring plating becomes the cathode and, with the passage of a DC current via anodes, chromium metal builds on the component surface.

Background: Flash hard chrome plating, also referred to as functional chrome plating, is applied as a thinner layer. It is ideal for close tolerance applications where an excessive build up of chrome is undesirable and where the requirement is to provide a durable hard wear-resisting surface.

Applications: Flash Hard Chrome plating has many typical applications, some of which are detailed below:

•Wire wound rods for paper coating
•Seal areas on pump or drive shafts
•Conveyer guide rails and rollers
•Plastic extruder screws
•Hydraulic rams and cylinders
•Print rollers
Tanks: We offer tank sizes up to 3.6m long.

Thickness: Coating thickness is dependent on the application and the customers’ requirements, which can normally range from 10 to 25 microns. This smaller deposit of hard chrome usually eliminates the need for a grinding operation to finish.

Not for Corvette Bumpers ETC.

 

Honestly, a flash job is going to be around half a thousandth of chrome. Or like a 15min bath. As to how they do it is going to depend on where you go, how many and what tanks they use and the slurry they have. You don't really need that much chrome if its just a show part, so flash chroming is what I would do if they do a good job. Like others said, yeah it will rub off faster, but so will thinker coats of chrome. Just make sure the valve covers are worth chroming. Look for dings and all that because it will show up in the chroming. If you want anymore info I can help

 

Good advice as long as judging is not in the future.

 

Well, you can go for a "cheezy" chrome job...which is what GM did...and impress some NCRS judge; or you can get it done well, and have it look great and last for the next 50 years. Middle ground is to buy a new set that looks as "cheezy" as the originals. If they look just like the GM pieces, you will not lose any 'points'.

 

Hi blk,
In addition to the info already discussed I believe that the parts GM specified flash chrome for did not receive much, or any, surface preparation before the plating was done.
Thus not only is the plating noticeably 'thin', the parts will typically exhibit surface flaws under the plating.
Regards,
Alan

I believe Librandi's in Middletown, Pa., (near Harrisburg), will do flash chrome.
Google Librandi's Plating.

 

Thanks all. I have no intention or desire to have the car judged. It's not that perfect anyway. I just don't want to kill the originality of it. I got a price quote of $300 to triple plate chrome the valve covers and ignition shield. I definetly want to keep the original covers, they have the dings and all, just of matter of flash chroming or triple plating. Not sure which way I will go yet.

 

If you have a good chrome shop redo your original stuff, they will likely repair all the "dings", etc. before chroming. They (and you) don't want a great chrome finish ruined by a poorly finished surface. Ask them what they will do for that price.

 

Sounds like you are on the same path as me regarding restoration. Those dings in your original covers likely indicate the presence of drippers welded to the inside...which facilitate proper oiling of the valve train. I have only re-chromed my valve covers and probably had them done too well. If your air cleaner lid is original...think twice before messing with it because of the stencil underneath.

 

Yes, my air cleaner lid is also original. Would the stencil underneath get removed with a rechrome? When you have your valve covers re-chromed, did the remove the dings?

 

Yes. I borrowed my cover to somebody for NCRS regional judging. They got excited about it and took pictures of the stencil.

No. Mine were dimples, not dings. I paid $130 for chroming. Can't imagine what $300 buys.

 

Hi FR,
Looks NICE!
Regards,
Alan

 

Looks beautiful! Here's a few pics of my current chrome.

 

If your covers have original emblems...you may want to think about leaving them alone. That means your chrome is also original and it looks very good. Mine was flaking off and the covers were rusting...so I had no choice. If you want that super chrome and over-restored look, you should probably buy some repros for driving and ooh-ahh local shows...saving the valuable stuff to sell to the next caretaker.

 

I thinks that's what I may do. They don't look that bad, just not like a new chrome job. Thanks.

 

if you do decide on a real chrome job, find out where the local motorcycle guys go for their plating and I guarantee that will be the best shop to do the work. those guys are really obsessive about that work on their bikes and don't accept second rate work.

 

Your original chrome doesn't look that bad for factory flash chrome. You may want to try polishing it before going to the extent of having it replated.

Your air cleaner cover looks very good and would definitely benefit from a good polishing. You would also not disturb the silkscreened instructions on the underside. I'd just clean the carbon and varnish from the underside with a good household cleaner. You may want to try a good hand rubbed chrome polish such as Simichrome for the top side.

The rocker covers also look pretty good. You may want to investigate just having the small dings finessed out and the covers machine polished, or just try hand polishing them and see how you like it. The spot weld depressions are original and won't come out without a lot of work by an experienced shop but that is what reveals that the covers are original.

A chrome plating shop may be willing to just machine polish your parts without plating. A good shop will have experience at straightening out dings and small dents since they would do this for a complete rechrome job anyway. They should also know what it takes to bring out a great shine by machine polishing as that is also part of the replating process.

If my original air cleaner and rocker covers looked as good as yours, I'd just polish them and let that be that.

 

Thanks. I tried polishing them, but I'll try a different polish like that Simichrome. If that isn't good enough for me, I think I will just buy some new repros and leave the original stuff alone.