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I thought about rebuilding the calipers, but everything I read suggests just buying new calipers...is this just an easy way out or scare tactic to persuade me to buy new/rebuilt? Is it worth it to rebuild the calipers? If so, what sort of kit should I look at?
I don't have a timing tab on the timing chain cover, and buying a tab isn't a perfect solution. Everything I know about timing, the goal is to get the highest idle rpm...that's where I'm at now, retarded just a bit, and she seems to run perfectly.
Take your timing wrech with you next time you take it out. Advance the time until it pings under load, like up a long grade in final drive gear without kicking the tranny down to second. Back the timing off until the ping is gone, then lock it down. Run it until it's up to operating temp and shut it off. If it grunts while trying to restart, back it off a little, then try it again. When it doesn't ping, or grunt on a hot start, that is "race timing". Depending on your altitude, you can advance timing a fair bit to get the best performance. I have brand new side panels for the console, ready for carpet. They are tempered hardboard, as original, with the correct mounting holes already in place. I have restored a '78 Silver Annie and a Pace Car in the past 2 years, and can send you all the interior pix of both, correct and original. PM me with any questions and include your actual e-mail address. I haven't found a way to send attachments in the PMs. Maybe I can figure a way to post all the pix in the forum for everyone's benefit. Let me know if I can help!! Uncle Maddog...............
Take your timing wrech with you next time you take it out. Advance the time until it pings under load, like up a long grade in final drive gear without kicking the tranny down to second. Back the timing off until the ping is gone, then lock it down. Run it until it's up to operating temp and shut it off. If it grunts while trying to restart, back it off a little, then try it again. When it doesn't ping, or grunt on a hot start, that is "race timing". Depending on your altitude, you can advance timing a fair bit to get the best performance. I have brand new side panels for the console, ready for carpet. They are tempered hardboard, as original, with the correct mounting holes already in place. I have restored a '78 Silver Annie and a Pace Car in the past 2 years, and can send you all the interior pix of both, correct and original. PM me with any questions and include your actual e-mail address. I haven't found a way to send attachments in the PMs. Maybe I can figure a way to post all the pix in the forum for everyone's benefit. Let me know if I can help!! Uncle Maddog...............
Thanks Maddog. I'll give this a try once I get it out on the road.
Take your timing wrech with you next time you take it out. Advance the time until it pings under load, like up a long grade in final drive gear without kicking the tranny down to second. Back the timing off until the ping is gone, then lock it down. Run it until it's up to operating temp and shut it off. If it grunts while trying to restart, back it off a little, then try it again. When it doesn't ping, or grunt on a hot start, that is "race timing". Depending on your altitude, you can advance timing a fair bit to get the best performance. I have brand new side panels for the console, ready for carpet. They are tempered hardboard, as original, with the correct mounting holes already in place. I have restored a '78 Silver Annie and a Pace Car in the past 2 years, and can send you all the interior pix of both, correct and original. PM me with any questions and include your actual e-mail address. I haven't found a way to send attachments in the PMs. Maybe I can figure a way to post all the pix in the forum for everyone's benefit. Let me know if I can help!! Uncle Maddog...............
Finally finished painting my sidemarkers and got them installed. I need to check all the lights to make sure they're working and then I'll move on to the interior.
Just got started on the interior. I had the carpet for the console side trim panels but didn't have the panels. I went to Lowes and purchased a 4' x 8' sheet of Tempered Hardboard (that's what Lowes calls it) for $8.98. You can cut about four pair of panels with one sheet. Cut a piece off the sheet to approximate size of panel. Used 3M upholstery glue in a spray can, shot on the board and the backside of the carpet, and glued them together. I know this will sound silly, but I don't have a scroll or band saw, so I used a 1" chisel and cut around the carpet. Finally, sanded the edge, by hand lightly, all the way around and it's ready to install. It took about thirty minutes for this panel. With the correct saw it might take 10 minutes.
ok, now 2 months ago you had this heap on the trailer. OMG you now have this beautiful red vette??? Did you have the overhaulin A team come in and do this?
The car looks great. I really like the marker lights. Try an electric antenna. They work great. Dont forget to paint the inner fender wells black. You, sir, have done a fine job. In a very short time i might add. Now come the hard part....
Waiting for spring when everything starts to happen and you are busy every weekend driving and showing this hand crafted masterpiece! Now get back to it and finish that interior. By the way, we just did a vintage air system on my friends 78 and it is a great way to go for A/C in these cars. cost 1500 bucks and it will really do the job!!! you might think about that right now before you start on the interior....
Sorry to mislead, the Silver Annie in the avatar went to a buyer in Sydney, Australia. I haven't gotten around to changing the avatar yet, maybe will do it now. The new avatar will show a Pace Car, also for sale in Vettefinders. You can see all the pix of it there, if you'd like. I won't take up space on the forum, there are two dozen pix there, as well as the complete description of all the work done. I restored a '75 T-top a couple of years ago, and when it sold, the first '78 came my way. Two weeks after it sold, the Pace Car showed up on my doorstep, and like the stray cats who find us, I couldn't turn it away!! I've done lots of muscle cars over the years, mostly Mopar, and one '67 Thunderbird 428 tudor hardtop, all black, all stock, and very fast! Thanks for your interest. U.M............
Can't seem to get the center console plate out and I'd hate to break something at this point. Four screws are out, screws to gauge plate are out, but it seems something is still holding it. Is the shift lever connected to the shift needle (P R N 3 2 1)? What am I missing?
I made the trim pieces so I had to figure out where to drill the holes. Put the screws in place, put some drywall mud on the screw heads, put the trim piece in place, and pressed it against the screw heads. Took it out carefully and drilled in the center of the mud left by the screw heads. Dabbled with some red on the doors also, but still working it. I plan to make a red shift boot, if I can get the plate off.
Can't seem to get the center console plate out and I'd hate to break something at this point. Four screws are out, screws to gauge plate are out, but it seems something is still holding it. Is the shift lever connected to the shift needle (P R N 3 2 1)? What am I missing?
It has the hex head screws on each side screwed horizontally into the brackets attached to the tranny tunnel, easily visible with the carpet side panels off. Two 7/32" (7mm) hex screws angle up into the bottom of the instrument cluster plate on either side of the console plate front/top. Two of the same size are at the rear of the console top plate. They screw forward from under the front of the padded park brake console. These are the ones that always get missed, and when the console is "forced" off, the little plastic tabs on the back of the console plate where the screws snug down break off! The two I've had needed replaced anyway due to marring, but care must be taken if you want to avoid buying new. The lighter base can be a bear to unscrew after all this time, plenty of blaster or other solvent will save destroying it (like I did!). The shifter thingy isn't fastened to the lever, it just sort of drops into a slot, just look at it before taking it apart so you'll know how it should be later. Hope this helps, good luck! U.M..........
It has the hex head screws on each side screwed horizontally into the brackets attached to the tranny tunnel, easily visible with the carpet side panels off. Two 7/32" (7mm) hex screws angle up into the bottom of the instrument cluster plate on either side of the console plate front/top. Two of the same size are at the rear of the console top plate. They screw forward from under the front of the padded park brake console. These are the ones that always get missed, and when the console is "forced" off, the little plastic tabs on the back of the console plate where the screws snug down break off! The two I've had needed replaced anyway due to marring, but care must be taken if you want to avoid buying new. The lighter base can be a bear to unscrew after all this time, plenty of blaster or other solvent will save destroying it (like I did!). The shifter thingy isn't fastened to the lever, it just sort of drops into a slot, just look at it before taking it apart so you'll know how it should be later. Hope this helps, good luck! U.M..........
Would you happen to have any pictures of the inside view of the t-top. I'm guessing there is a panel there with headliner or something. Mine have nothing so I'll have to build.
Would you happen to have any pictures of the inside view of the t-top. I'm guessing there is a panel there with headliner or something. Mine have nothing so I'll have to build.
Mine are the mirrored glass, and I don't have pix from the '75 tops. Willcox and others have new interior panels for the fiberglass tops, so you can look them up for the pix of what they offer. U.M.........