1978 Corvette Restoration
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Don't worry about the orange exhaust manifolds. About 10 minutes after you start the engine, they will be a crispy, black anyway. You need to use 1200*F paint, if you want to 'color' them. I had my manifolds shot blasted, then put on two coats of Seymour 1200*F 'Cast Blast' cast iron colored paint. It is a ceramic paint that bakes when the engine is fired up (about 2 hours of running to bake the paint and get the smell to go away 
). But, it's worth it to have original-looking manifolds that never rust.
). But, it's worth it to have original-looking manifolds that never rust.
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Stopping Power
Just finished putting new calipers and pads on all four corners. I've got more speed than I need and the brakes to stop it on a dime now.
I've been shopping wheels and I've decided on American Racing AR23's. Body work is next and can't wait to get it painted. I'll post pictures as I go as usual.
I've been shopping wheels and I've decided on American Racing AR23's. Body work is next and can't wait to get it painted. I'll post pictures as I go as usual.
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Strip it down
Started the process today. Doing a section at a time and figure it will probably take about a month to strip it completely, body fill, and sand to perfection. The Citri Strip works really good, but I'm also afraid to leave it on too long. I let it work for about an hour and a half.
Either going Tangerine Twist and Black, or Inferno Orange and Black. Not sure were I'll split the two tones but I want some different. Suggestions welcomed.
Either going Tangerine Twist and Black, or Inferno Orange and Black. Not sure were I'll split the two tones but I want some different. Suggestions welcomed.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 198
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From: St. Catharines Ontario
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Color choice
OK, no more changing my mind. I'm going with Viper red, with two Arctic White rally stripes down the center. I finished stripping the paint with the citri strip and I'm in the process of sanding, by hand. This is a hard job. I'm about 20 hours into it and hope to be done with my first pass on Friday. First pass is the complete car sanded with course and then medium sandpaper. Next I'll body fill a few small areas and then sand one more time all the way around with course, medium, fine, and extra fine sandpaper.
I need to get the side-view mirrors off. My electric windows don't work, and they're in the full upright position, so I can't seem to get to the mounting bolts for the mirrors. Any ideas?
I need to get the side-view mirrors off. My electric windows don't work, and they're in the full upright position, so I can't seem to get to the mounting bolts for the mirrors. Any ideas?
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Finished blocking
My fingers are raw. Tomorrow, FedEx is delivering epoxy primer/sealer, Viper Red urethane, and urethane clear. Hope to be painting next week. I'll post pics after I prime and after I paint. My wife's got me talked into plain solid red. I'm still considering rally or leman's stripes, and also considering a rear wing.
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Prepping to paint
Put in about 16 hours this weekend masking and shrouding the garage. Almost there. Need to spray on some wax and grease remover, hang a few small pieces, and raise a few more shrouds.
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Progress
We took a trip to the beach for Christmas so progress slowed a bit. Got the color on it before we left, and clear coated it after we got back. Total cost, with all paint, primer, clear coat, reducers, hardners, activators, paint guns, sandpaper, buffer, polish, compound, everything...less than $500. I still have to cut and buff it. I used single stage urethane as a base coat, and clear coated over that. The paint looks so deep I could almost dive into it. It'll look even deeper after the cut and buff. My wife talked me out of the stripes, and I'm really happy with this Viper Red. I wanted Orange, my wife wanted red, and we ended up with a perfect compromise.
Epoxy primer.
Single stage urethane base coat.
Urethane clear coat.
Epoxy primer.
Single stage urethane base coat.
Urethane clear coat.
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Before I opened the garage, I taped two plastic drop cloths to the outside of the garage door. It blocked stuff from coming in and gave me about three and a half feet at the back of the car to move around and paint. I had one small fan, in an opening in the center of that plastic, which provided a little ventilation. I just taped the middle seam all the way down except for about the last three feet from the ground. Ventilation was only a small problem during prime and clear, but it never stopped me. Respirator is a must, because the chemicals in modern paint are no joke. It worked great. Water on the floor was a must. If I did it again, I would prime, untape and clean the car and garage, retape, and then paint and clear.
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Thanks! First time I've done anything like this. Had never even held a paint gun before. I'm really enjoying the journey...that's what it's all about for me. I watched some videos last night...this guy making custom consoles. His interiors cost on average $10,000-$15,000. He makes some cool stuff, but I think I can do the same. I want to beef up my interior. IMO, Chevy used some cheap materials and craftsmanship, on this year model for sure. I plan to blend some reds and blacks throughout. It's a few weeks away before I start but I'll post pictures as I progress.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 139
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From: Carrollton Texas
Man you are an inspiration! I put my '78 SA up for sale after it seemed like I would just never have the time to really make any progress on its restoration. After reading this thread and seeing the excellent progress you have made in a few short months I realize I just need to focus some time and energy on my car and get it back on the road. Thanks for the great thread.