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Tight wiper door linkage

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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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Default Tight wiper door linkage

Guys, any advice on loosening the assembly up? I have a 68 project that has been sitting for a long time and the linkage froze up tight. I have since removed it from the car and put it in a vice, sprayed everything I have on it, (kroil, generic penetrant and bolt loosener, used motor oil and sprayable grease) and have got it to move by tapping the joints with a hammer, back and forth many times.

Thing is, everything moves now but it has gotten to the point where it's not getting any freer no matter what I do...still takes quite a bit of effort to get it to move. Afraid of breaking this thing or using heat on the bushings.. Has anyone had this problem, and what did you use to get it to work effortlessly?
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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Hi Champ,
My only suggestion is that you start drilling the rivets out so you can clean/replace the bushings.
Vendors like Paragon sell the tubular rivets, nylon bushings, and a tubular rivet setting tool.
Not a nice thought, (time and $$), but I don't know what else to suggest.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 07:24 PM
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Default A little at a time, finally got it free

Mine had been stored since 1973...same problem your experiencing...My situation was to remove the rack and use anything to free it up...over a period of a week or so I used every kind of liquid available and finally got it working as good as new....Taking it apart is a solution, but I figured nothing lost by trying to free it up ...To take Alan's approach would have been my next step that I really wanted to avoid if possible....And it worked...

have patience mine was horrible too...put it in a vice and go at it.....
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 10:14 PM
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My "guess" is that your wiper door has been worked-on in the past. Unless great care is used to remove those special mounting screws, between door and linkage, the heads will break off. Then, the PO will get out the Craftsman electric drill to drill out the shanks and then try to re-tap that 'new' drilled holes.

Sorry, that won't work. Those tapped holes all need to be precision aligned for the mechanism NOT to bind up. I highly suspect that your problem is an alignment issue...not a lubrication/free-motion issue.
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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Default Try this

there was a recent post about a problem with frozen parts and by using a 50-50 solution of acetone and auto trans fluid {ATF} could help improving the movement of the wiper linkage.....worth a try!.........

the wiper door is another problem with those tiny bolts..I presume you already took care of that
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
there was a recent post about a problem with frozen parts and by using a 50-50 solution of acetone and auto trans fluid {ATF} could help improving the movement of the wiper linkage.....worth a try!.........

the wiper door is another problem with those tiny bolts..I presume you already took care of that
I got thinking about those mixtures last night. What I think I'm going to do is see if each end will fit in a 5 gallon bucket...and fill it with an ATF/diesel/acetone mix till it's just submerged and let each side sit for a week.

The wiper door bolts actually are fine!
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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Glad it's only corroded. Hope you can get it freed-up.
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