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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 03:14 AM
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Default adding right hand mirror??

has anyone here added a right hand mirror to a chrome bumper C3? were you happy with the results? i'm thinking of doing it while restoring my 68' coupe. (i know it was a dealer installed option, and maybe not even available til closer to 73', but i suppose some of the earlier car owners could have gone back to get one installed, or installed one themselves)

i have a template that came with a r/h mirror and it says to drill 3/8" holes???? that seems rather large to me, and would i have to drill and tap the steel for the bolts that hold the bracket in place? any input would be appreciated, thanks, Rick
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 03:46 AM
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The large holes are for two barrel-nuts that get glued into the door skin with adhesive. The mounting plate then gets attached to those bonded in nuts using two machine screws that should have also come with the kit.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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here in australia we have to have a rh mirror
it is held on by "well nuts" which go in the 3/8" holes
they expand at the back when pushed thru the fiberglass and the screw is tightened on the gasket and bracket

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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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Easy install. Eliminates the blind spot.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
here in australia we have to have a rh mirror
it is held on by "well nuts" which go in the 3/8" holes
they expand at the back when pushed thru the fiberglass and the screw is tightened on the gasket and bracket



This is the way to go. Easy job. Put them on all my cars.

Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Dec 30, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
here in australia we have to have a rh mirror
it is held on by "well nuts" which go in the 3/8" holes
they expand at the back when pushed thru the fiberglass and the screw is tightened on the gasket and bracket


I did this to my 69 years ago. No problems, the mirror is still tight. Great addition for safety.
You will drill 3/8th in holes for the well nuts. Check the pattern that came with the kit with the driver door. The early 68s had the mirror in a different location than latter ones or the 69s.
Tape the area with painters tape, layout the holes and start with a smaller bit. A step drill is great for fiberglass, but I am not sure if there is a lot of room inside of the door.
It is scary to go drilling in a perfectly good door skin, but you will like the results.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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I've had right side mirrors for the past 20 years. But be aware there's still a HUGE blind spot with these relatively small flat-glass mirrors.

If anyone knows of a source for a convex, or convex replacement glass, it would be a much needed improvement. I've been searching off and on for years but found nothing.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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I put one on my '68 BB last fall.
I did it right after my friend scraped his '65 on his garage getting out.
He was sick after that.
I think a R/S mirror would have helped.
I of course did not offer that advise when he told me.
Kinda felt like it would've been adding insult to injury.
I did learn from his error.
I also think the car looks more symetrical from the front.
Its like a luggage rack, owner preference I guess.
The installation was easy.
I did not use the 3/8" well nuts.
I drilled 2 very small hole and used two srews for the base.
I then used the blue locktite for the mirror mounting screw.
The brass base has never loosened up on me but I have
had to retighten the chrome mirror mount screw
ever so slightly due to vibration.
Vibes get telegraphed through the mirror at idle.
Hell it's a big block what ya expect
Marshal
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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I did mine years ago...i think i caught steel... i would first try without the well nuts...you can always drill a bigger hole...
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 10:40 AM
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PS: ROLL UP THE WINDOW GLASS BEFORE DRILLING.
LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS HAVE TO FIND AN ASTRO
VENTALATION MARKED WINDOW
Marshal
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
here in australia we have to have a rh mirror
it is held on by "well nuts" which go in the 3/8" holes
they expand at the back when pushed thru the fiberglass and the screw is tightened on the gasket and bracket

That is exactly how mine went on. For information, here is the template.




Last edited by Paul L; Dec 30, 2012 at 11:37 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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I have a right-hand mirror. It is much better than having NO right-hand mirror. But, I am absolutely SHOCKED that no vendor sells an original-looking early 70's right-side unit with a convex mirror so that it can actually see much!
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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thanks for all the responses and pics! NOW i understand why the 3/8" diameter holes were to be drilled. my left door doesn't have holes at all either, (new skin i guess).....do they offer the same mounting kit for the left door also? or is this a different process? btw, i think the dual mirrors look great on the pics posted! thanks, Rick
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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7T1Vette,
Amen, I 'm with you.
I have to crane my neck to use the passenger side mirror.
It is alot better than nothing and guess work.
My friend w/ the 65 used guess work and gouged the s..t out of his passenger front fender.
I have the seat all the way back minus a few inchess so I'm not jamming the seat back against the water fall bulkhead.
The drivers mirror allows me to look down the side of the car and a fairly
good perriferal view.
The passenger mirror, I copy and pasted the same measurements as the drivers side.
The angle makes it so I have a great line of site perriferally to the frost line on the roadway but I can only see the very edge of the car.
A convex lens would absolutely allow me to have a fish eyes view along the passenger side.
But I make it work.
Marshal
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 07:02 PM
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FYI If you don't already have the mirror..... Corvette central has mirrors that are date stamped. you look at the glass part on your drivers side and you will see a small marking showing a date code. You can special order one to match that code for the passenger side.
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
I have a right-hand mirror. It is much better than having NO right-hand mirror. But, I am absolutely SHOCKED that no vendor sells an original-looking early 70's right-side unit with a convex mirror so that it can actually see much!
I agree. But with a convertible it is not as crucial. Still I would spring for convex glass.


Last edited by Paul L; Dec 30, 2012 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 12:57 AM
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Are you hearing this, Corvette Vendors??

Whomever sells 'correct' right-side mirrors with convex (wide-view) glass will get ALL THE BUISNESS on sales of this part. The right-side mirror is going to get deductions anyway, if you get it judged by NCRS anyway. It didn't come from the factory...only installed by the dealers...and [for some unintelligible reason] that doesn't count!

MAKE IT and we will buy.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Dec 31, 2012 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by flaco1801
I did mine years ago...i think i caught steel... i would first try without the well nuts...you can always drill a bigger hole...
I hit steel on my 71' as well. I agree, drill a small hole first to see if you hit the steel.
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
here in australia we have to have a rh mirror
it is held on by "well nuts" which go in the 3/8" holes
they expand at the back when pushed thru the fiberglass and the screw is tightened on the gasket and bracket

so do the well nuts need to be glued/epoxied into place or do they just fit snug,and allow the machine bolt to snug them up tightly? Rick
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 06:41 AM
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The tension on the well-nut will keep it and the luggage rack (and any "luggage") in place. Once the tension is removed, the well-nut should also be removable; if very old, it may retain its shape and be more difficult. But, there shouldn't be any need to glue it in place. Those on my rack are glued...and they're 40+ years old and doing fine.

Also, follow directions for well-nut installation. It doesn't take a lot of torque to lock one in place. A 1/2" (body diameter) Well-nut only needs 10-12 inch-pounds of torque to retain a load of nearly 500 pounds [tensile]. That's about 0.5 foot-pounds.

Since you tighten the well-nut by inserting the attaching screw for whatever you are mounting, just use an appropriately sized screwdriver and tighten only by hand to just a "firm" tighten. That's all it needs.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jan 1, 2013 at 06:43 AM.
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