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I had my motor built back in October and asked for them to paint it while they were at it. Big Mistake...
It seems that if I even breathe on it, it chips up. The paint does not adhere very well at all. Seems they spent very little time prepping the block before painting it. While it might be acceptable for others, it bugs the crap out of me to the point I am considering pulling the motor back off to repaint it (No big deal, body is still off the frame). I am quite retentive and have been known to refinish parts more than once. Anyway, I am wondering what type of paint the majority of you use when painting your engine block? Do you use the rattle can method? If so, what brand should I use? If you use more of a "professional grade" paint, what do you recommend? How do you prep the block and do you use a primer or just spray the block with paint? Any suggestions for removing the paint that is on there now? I plan to possibly re-do with the traditional Chevrolet Orange. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
I doubt they prepped the surface of the block properly before painting it. We just painted the block just this last weekend using Krylon Engine Enamel, but that's after wiring wheeling all the old paint off, down to the bare metal, then the air gun, to blow it off and finally, it gets wiped down with acetone or laquer thinner on a rag to remove any oils. Then the air gun again, to get the lint off.
The paint sticks really well. I think the key is to wire wheel it totally, then follow it up with the above.
The paint did not stick because they were lazy and did no prep, work.
Strip it down, and do it right, almost any Engine paint will work well,
when it has been prepped properly.
Por15 Dries rock hard, and does not leave brush marks.
Good stuff...Do not get Por15 on you !
I used carb cleaner to get any oil off the block after cleaning all the old paint off. Wire wheel works good, better is one on an angle grinder goes heck of a lot faster than a drill mounted one.
Then like F22 said blow all the lint off from the rag you used to wipe the cleaner off with. I then brushed (bristle brush not foam) on Por15 engine enamel and it looks awsome. Comes out shiny and smooth. Bonus is if your careful with the brush it's not neccesary to mask all the stuff you don't want painted. One word of caution don't over do with the thickness on paint it will run or sag very easily. Just put it on nice and thin then apply a second coat within 24 hours and it will look great.
If you did not specify HOW the engine was to be painted, then they just had some flunkey hose it down and hit it will the cheapest spray bomb they could buy. If you want something done right, either put it in the contract with requirements on how to prep and what paint to use...or do it yourself.
Hi sr29,
If your engine has a painted intake manifold you might want to consider using 600 degree high-temp paint so it doesn't blacken at the heat cross over.
Regards,
Alan
If you did not specify HOW the engine was to be painted, then they just had some flunkey hose it down and hit it will the cheapest spray bomb they could buy. If you want something done right, either put it in the contract with requirements on how to prep and what paint to use...or do it yourself.
Hey 7T1,
Well, sometimes we have to learn the hard way! All I simply asked the guys at the engine shop was to paint the block Chevrolet Orange "when they were done building it"...and yes, it was with a no name brand chevy orange rattle can paint. They gave me what was left. I wish I thought to be more specific on how they prepped and painted the block, so now I get to do it all over myself!
Thanks for the replies. I am suprised of all of the responses on using the POR15. I have used it before in black, but never thought about using it for the block. I might just go ahead and use it instead of the old rattle can method.
Do you guys think it would be possible to thin out the POR15 and spray it instead of brushing it on?
Just a little trick I learned from powder coating...
To eliminate any lint after wiping parts down for paint/powder, use a blow torch and quickly go over the part. It will burn and blow off any remaining lint or pieces from the material you used to wipe the part down with.
Do you guys think it would be possible to thin out the POR15 and spray it instead of brushing it on?
I was curious, so I checked the instruction link on their website:
IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15?
Most people brush it on due to its leveling characteristics however it
may also be sprayed. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate
respirators for solvents are essential for spraying.
HOW DO I THIN POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT?
You should use POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Some lacquer thinners will
work, but many will not. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not
thin POR-15 more than 5%.
Unfortunately, you now have to remove the poorly applied paint, before you can shoot it with "good stuff". I cringe thinking about pulling the engine to re-do it. But, I cringe even more when I think about attempting it without pulling the engine.
Believe me, I'm not getting any pleasure from your grief; I was just making the point for others about how to best go about getting it done correctly. Most of the good repair places would not do what your engine builder did. They would take the time to do it right so that you didn't have to do it again. But, there are those others...
I normally primer with Vari-prime self etching primer. I then use Dupont Centari with hardener. Add a small amount of flattener so the hardener doesn't leave it too glossy. The hardener keeps gasoline from ruining the paint if it touches it.
Hi heat cast iron grey paint for the exhaust manifolds.
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