Oil leak
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 893
Likes: 7
From: Orange Park Florida
On my '72 (two piece main), I dropped the oil pan removed the rear main bolts and removed the bottom half of the rear main - seal comes off. Slide the top half of the seal out and install new seal carefully into place, Rotate the top seal half a little so when the bottom seal is bolted on the seams dont line up with the main bearing facing - an offset arrangement. May want to replace the oil pump while you are there. Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
No. As mentioned, just drop the oil pan. And the easiest way to do that is to remove the two bolts holding the idler arm to the frame and drop the steering components under the pan. Then you can remove the pan bolts and drop the pan.
You may find that you need to just 'bump' the engine over a 'tic' to get the crank counterweights where they give the most clearance for pan removal and installation. Put pan back up with 2 bolts before bumping engine over.
The Viton seals are super expensive....don't know why. But, a good Fel-Pro [non-Viton] seal will work fine for many years. Just follow the directions and use the little guide strip to help the install and make sure you don't slice the new seal during installation. Good luck!
P.S. Some folks recommend putting a little dab of RTV Black sealant on the ends of the 2 seal halves. I prefer just aligning the upper seal about 1/8" offset from flush with the pan rail. This way, the splitline between the two seal halves is not in line with the oil pan splitline, and that minimizes leaks via that route.
You may find that you need to just 'bump' the engine over a 'tic' to get the crank counterweights where they give the most clearance for pan removal and installation. Put pan back up with 2 bolts before bumping engine over.
The Viton seals are super expensive....don't know why. But, a good Fel-Pro [non-Viton] seal will work fine for many years. Just follow the directions and use the little guide strip to help the install and make sure you don't slice the new seal during installation. Good luck!
P.S. Some folks recommend putting a little dab of RTV Black sealant on the ends of the 2 seal halves. I prefer just aligning the upper seal about 1/8" offset from flush with the pan rail. This way, the splitline between the two seal halves is not in line with the oil pan splitline, and that minimizes leaks via that route.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Apr 2, 2013 at 10:42 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
It can be problematic if the exhaust manifold studs have withered away and the union with the extension pipe is locked up solid. The pic shows my old 1979 and the pipes and studs were relatively new at that time. But in an earlier adventure with that car and the exhaust I snapped off 3 of the 6 studs. From that point on I never attempted exhaust work on my own and let the pros at a muffler shop do the job. I don't have a torch at home and those guys know the right shade of red and when to twist.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 914
Likes: 10
From: Brooklet Ga.
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