Ready to pull the 35 year old original radiator and put in a brand new shiny DeWitt's in my '78 L82. No air conditioner. Questions: Is this a do-able job in my driveway? Will I need a helper? About how much time should I allot for the whole process? Is there other stuff I should do/clean/repair/replace while the radiator is out? Is there a quota on swear words while working? When complete, how much beer should I have on ice and ready to go?

 

You need a helper to pull the rad out. Its kind of heavy for one person. Taking the hood off gives more room and also requires a helper. Just mark around the hinges so you can get it back in the same spot. Hardest part to me was the trans cooler lines. I had to fan up new inlet and outlet lines and replaced all the rubber while I was in there. Reaching them is a pia. I found that putting the lower hose on the pump first was easiest for me. Not too bad of a job but not fun either. Make sure you have new isolators/rubber pads handy. I forgot until I was in the middle of it.

 

Yes it is quite do-able in your driveway. Preferably in the shade because you may work up a sweat trying to get the new radiator back in.

I have done numerous times without any help...but I have a good back and abs.

A couple of hours (2-4)...and this also depends on additional "things" that may need to be done while the radiator swap is being performed.


YES.
1.) Make sure that the foam seals that run vertical between the radiator and radiator support (to seal it off) are replaced or are at least intact. This may be an issue on installing the new radiator if the tanks is wider than factory...which will also cause your rubber insulator pads at the top and bottom of each tank needing to be replaced or modified to accept the wider tank.
2.) Replace the transmission cooler line hoses (the CORRECT type) NOT fuel hose.
3.) Lower radiator hose...and make sure that there is a spring INSIDE the hose to prevent it from collapsing when you rev-up the engine.

Uhhh----NO QUOTA!!!! This possibly can cause you to set a "record".

I was a Boy Scout...and the motto is" BE PREPARED". Take from that
what you wish.

***** IMPORTANT TIP*****
Whenever I install radiators in a Corvette. I cut a piece of cardboard (good stuff) wide enough to completely cover the core and fins. I make the piece of cardboard long enough so I can take it and while the radiator is standing upright...I bend it over BOTH sides and cut off any extra at eh bottom. I then take a good strong string and wrap the string around the radiator just inside the cardboard at both ends so it hold the cardboard tight against the radiator. I do this so I do not damage the core...and when it is at least in the basic spot...I cut the strings and pull up and out on the cardboard. NO DAMAGE... Because this may be REALLY TIGHT to get in...even if you remove the upper TWO radiator support bolts where that secure the support to your inner skirts. Slightly loosen the lower bolt and use it as a pivot. This will allow you to pull the core support forward ( toward the headlights) and stick one of the bolts back in the upper hole where you just took it out. Just put then in from the wheel side and let the core support fall back and stop on them. Often times that 1/2"-1" forward tilt on the core support allows you to "fight" the radiator in CAREFULLY... because the main problem will be getting the radiator in because you have to keep the shroud in place but pulled back towards the engine...and the lower radiator hose fitting on the radiator is the "rat bastard".

SO...when you remove the original..TAKE CAREFUL note on how you had to lift and raise the drivers side higher than the passenger side and tilt it so it will come out. Sometimes the factory one will come out easy...but if going in with a much wider tank...that is where the PROBLEMS of re-installation begin

DUB

 

cardboard is a great idea.
just look it over real good before taking it out.
vet rads fit real nice when leaned correctly and fit into the
rubber seals.
it is hard to explain but you will see and feel when it is
properly placed.

I also have done it alone and yes, you get access to a whole lot of areas you can clean and paint

good luck

 

You will need help removing and installing the hood. The rest is doable solo since I just did it myself. Marking the perimeter of the hood hinges is good for reinstallation; it will save you much aggravation. I would start the process with the car on either ramps or stands so you have easy access to the underside. I also removed the chin spoiler and lower front valance on my 77. Makes getting to the lower hose clamps possible.
Invest is a 1/2 x 9/16 dedicated line fitting wrench before you start. This will save you hours and much skin but will only be needed if your car is an automatic.
Remove the upper rad hose first after you drain the system. Remove lower hose and the cooler lines if you have them. A large disposable turkey pan is good to catch stray fluids released here and make the job neater. Undo the two bolts which hold the fan shroud top and pull upward and back slightly to allow it to pivot rearward. Remove the four bolts holding both top rad mounts in place. Carefully lift the radiator up and out. Installation is the reverse of removal but use some slices of the shipping box and some masking tape to cover the fin area of the new rad both sides to avoid damage while you reinstall.

Now while it is out you might want to: Replace the water pump since it is readily accessable now. How old are the hoses; to include the heater lines? Ditto the fan clutch if your car has one (I would do this for sure). Belts are easy to renew now! Get a foam strip kit from one of our supporting vendors so your new rad pulls air only through the core instead of elsewhere... it will make a big difference in cooling. A new thermostat is only 2 bolts from done while the rad is out. Does your timing cover or front main seal weep? I'll stop there or we might end up stripping it to the bare frame just becausr the radiator is bad, but you get the idea.

I would allow both days of a weekend for new rad, fan clutch, hoses and belts... another workday or so if all the items I listed need attention. Double check your shopping list to be certain you will have every part and fluid needed to get this done... I have wasted whole afternoons standing in line at the auto parts store (more than once) because I did not plan effectively.

Beer is up to you... I celebrate jobs well done with a neat single malt or two.

 

Its doable by yourself, but easier with someone to actually help you lift it out. Make sure you cover your engine and front fenders just incase of any fluid left in the radiator. I did it both times with the hood on, just more
of a pain. It can be done in a day depending on how much beer you do have on ice. It took me 4 hours by myself except for a friend who helped me get the old one out over the fender. The new one was aluminum so it was a piece of cake getting it in. I had a total of 2 beers during and one beer after. clean and repaint as needed. And check your rad support for rust at the bottom especially.

 

As long as the rest of the cooling system is functioning correctly, you will enjoy the benefits from the DeWitt's talent to keep the engine running constantly at the correct operational temp.

If it's not too much trouble, take some pics so we can see the differences between old and new. I'm usually good with 3 or 4 beers for a job of this timeline... and swearing (under your breath or the occasional, outburst) at the car/parts/tools has a long history from anyone who has ever twisted a wrench.

Good luck.

 

Thanks to all who responded with the great advice. My first stop will be to get new isolator/rubber pads and foam strips because I'm sure they are old and weary. I hadn't considered the water pump or fan clutch but it might be worth it for peace of mind.

So, thanks again. This is a great forum and I really appreciate the wisdom of the group!

 

just did my 76 last wknd, left hood on and did it myself, took all 3 bolts out of core support on pass side and bolt on bottom pass side to move support forward. 3 hrs and plenty of swearing. if you use new foam its tough to get everything scrunched back into place to get top supports back on may want to keep a box of bandaids handy, good gloves help good luck and dont let it intimidate you its just nuts and bolts

 

Just put my aluminum in tonight. Started around 6:45 and was done by 9. This is the first real thing I have done to my car in the few weeks I have owned it. It was most certainly a PITA but only because the shroud is so ridiculous to get in and out. Once the shroud is out of the way, getting the old radiator out and the new one in is a piece of cake. For what it is worth, I left my hood on and have and A/C compressor in the way.

 

if you would have tilted the shroud forward and left it in the car, you would have gotten done at 7:30

 

I tried that first but never could seem to get enough clearance to get the radiator up and out.

Either way, everything came out and went back in without any breaking or cutting.

 

I would love to see pics or a video of someone pulling a radiator out of a 69 - 76 corvette while tilting the shroud forward and not removing the radiator support.

 

he has a '78, '78- '82s come right out

 

That's how I did mine, but you need to reach in and remove the fan and clutch assembly first

 

Make sure your radiator support is still in good shape. The bottom of mine was rusted out after 35 years.