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Hopefully if the weather stays nice I will get some color on it by early next week. Black is the color of choice.
I molded in the front and rear bumpers. I also raised the stock hood 2 inches in the center for my intake. I will post some picture of that once it is in primer. Now that I see how easy it is to post pictures more will be coming.
Looks good Steve!!! Wishing some "good luck" for some cooperating weather!!! Can't wait to see the finished pictures... Ensure you go with light coats on the base and then heavier on the clear (you'd rather have runs, then too much peel)...
The hardest part is masking this car up. Most full paint jobs I have done the car has been apart with no interior. This car is all together and it is a pain to mask. Tomorrow I am doing the jambs and the inside of the doors and hanging them. This should make it a little less time consuming to mask it.
I can't run a hand over the body from here, but seeing cut throughs in your primer gives me concern whether some of that might telegraph through your topcoats. I always strive to have a finish blocked body not show any bare spots before either sealer or color. Especially if the car will be black... it shows every imperfection no matter how small in your prep. You may be OK, but I personally would reprime and block it once more (at least) before I shot it.
I can't run a hand over the body from here, but seeing cut throughs in your primer gives me concern whether some of that might telegraph through your topcoats. I always strive to have a finish blocked body not show any bare spots before either sealer or color. Especially if the car will be black... it shows every imperfection no matter how small in your prep. You may be OK, but I personally would reprime and block it once more (at least) before I shot it.
I have been painting cars for 40 years. Believe me the basecoat is not going over that. I will prime the car and block sand it about 4 more times with finer grits each time. Then I will epoxy prime it and then wet sand it with 400 with a sanding block then the basecoat will go on. After the base flashes I will start with the clear. Thats how I have been doing it for a long time. And I have the trophys to prove it.
I have been painting cars for 40 years. Believe me the basecoat is not going over that. I will prime the car and block sand it about 4 more times with finer grits each time. Then I will epoxy prime it and then wet sand it with 400 with a sanding block then the basecoat will go on. After the base flashes I will start with the clear. Thats how I have been doing it for a long time. And I have the trophys to prove it.
That's awesome... Please disregard my earlier comments about painting, sorry ;-)
I personally have been painting cars for 39 years and 12 months and 31 days. 540 vette you got it down pat.
I see that you are painting the car with the headlight 'doors' in position, was that to eliminate any scratching of the paint surface if you had to install the doors if painted seperate? Some paint them out of the car to get paint on all edges. What are your thoughts on that.
I can appreciate all other panels seperate especially for a solid colour.
My humble comments about paint is it does not hide, it only magnifies imperfections. Of all colours, black is the most reflective of all colours. It will show orange peel to wavy bodywork. Take 540's advice and go the extra mile. Build a solid 'foundation' and it will bring you solid results.
That's awesome... Please disregard my earlier comments about painting, sorry ;-)
Rogman
Roger your comments are always appreciated as well as all the others.
Roger I have been following the thread on the restoration of your convertible and couldn´t wait to get my hands into mine. You can appreciate how much work goes into a quality paint job and restoration.
I personally have been painting cars for 39 years and 12 months and 31 days. 540 vette you got it down pat.
I see that you are painting the car with the headlight 'doors' in position, was that to eliminate any scratching of the paint surface if you had to install the doors if painted seperate? Some paint them out of the car to get paint on all edges. What are your thoughts on that.
I can appreciate all other panels seperate especially for a solid colour.
My humble comments about paint is it does not hide, it only magnifies imperfections. Of all colours, black is the most reflective of all colours. It will show orange peel to wavy bodywork. Take 540's advice and go the extra mile. Build a solid 'foundation' and it will bring you solid results.
I installed them to see how they fit, I wanted to make sure they followed the body contour. One of them had some dents in it and I needed to straighten it out. I am not sure yet which way I will go. I will probably do them on the car. As for the other parts being off, I am doing the jambe today and installing the doors. Being that it is a solid color I am going to do the car in 3 parts. Door, rear half and then the nose. I have support pole in the center of my garage and it makes it hard to get around the car at times.
First- that looks awesome and cant wait to see this done!
How in the world did you get the nose and tail covers blended in to the fiberglass? I would like to understand, seems like there must be a trick to get it slick like that and not crack over time?
No disrespect intended, I have no knowledge of your experience. When you told us you were going to "do the jambs" I assumed you were going to apply color, not the next prime coat.
No disrespect intended, I have no knowledge of your experience. When you told us you were going to "do the jambs" I assumed you were going to apply color, not the next prime coat.
No problem. I didn´t take it as being disrespectful. A little help and criticism is always welcome.
First- that looks awesome and cant wait to see this done!
How in the world did you get the nose and tail covers blended in to the fiberglass? I would like to understand, seems like there must be a trick to get it slick like that and not crack over time?
thanks
You have to use fiberglass bumpers. I usually bolt them on and then V the area before the bumper and the on the bumper right at the separation line. Then I just glass it in. Some people bond the bumpers. I did a 77 like this and it never cracked, and that was driving on the potholed streets of Brooklyn.
You have to use fiberglass bumpers. I usually bolt them on and then V the area before the bumper and the on the bumper right at the separation line. Then I just glass it in. Some people bond the bumpers. I did a 77 like this and it never cracked, and that was driving on the potholed streets of Brooklyn.
understood, is there no way to use the rubber bumper and make this work?
Its funny...the other day I did an "in tank" electric fuel pump [99 mustang] on a friend's car. To him [as a non car guy] it was a scary proposition, but to me it wasnt a huge ordeal, and my confidence made him comfortable.
I look at this, and my lack of bodywork knowledge makes my blood go to my feet. Its obvious you know what your doing, and that this is "old hat" for you....can't wait to see this turn into an awesome paint job.