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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #61  
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Thanks man I will try again this week end
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 12:41 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Hmmmmmmmmmmm........

Two PVC flanges joined together with the correct length of PVC pipe to equal 1" from flange face to flange face.

Then remove excess material so that flanges are the same diameter as the blower housing and the box housing mating surfaces.

Drill mounting holes in PVC flanges to match OEM holes in the box and the blower housing.

Paint designed for plastic parts should stick if PVC is wiped with acetone to remove slick surface before spraying spacer.



Thank you for this diagram. I have taken a brake from this part of the car and trying to get the body ready for primer and get a few coats of primer on before it is to cold to paint. After that I will get back to this project.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by silver79
Thanks man I will try again this week end
Any luck with the bumper?
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 12:51 AM
  #64  
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So it has been a while since I have posted anything, been really busy with work and what little spare time I have had has been working on the car. Kind of going slow but I have completed the grinding out of the factory filler and have refilled the body seams and have it all sanded. I do have a little bit of sanding in the door jam area and should then be ready to get a few coats of primer on the car before its to cold to paint.
I plan to then start reassembling as much as I can with the exception of the exterior parts. I am then planning to start block sanding later this winter so that I can paint in the spring when it warms back up.
I did just pull the rear glass out. I was really worried about it but it turned out to be really easy. I used windshield cutting wire that I got from the auto parts store for $8.00 and it took my wife and I about 10 minuets to cut it out.
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 11:53 PM
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I am getting ready to lift the body off my 74 using the same method you used. What size Cherry Picker did you use 2 Ton?

Thanks!
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 02:46 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by mmesa005
I am getting ready to lift the body off my 74 using the same method you used. What size Cherry Picker did you use 2 Ton?

Thanks!
I am going to assume that it is a 2 ton. The arm has markings for up to 4000 lbs and the bottle jack is a 3 ton. It had plenty of room to lift the body over the engine and fuel tank, could have lifted it a foot or so more and that is with the car sitting on jack stands at a height that still allowed me to reinstall the wheels.
Its funny, I have a 3/4 ton Suburban that sits stock height and has a big block and my hoist will not lift the engine out over the radiator support unless I remove the tires and lower the truck, but it worked to lift the Corvettes body off with no problems.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mac79vette
I am going to assume that it is a 2 ton. The arm has markings for up to 4000 lbs and the bottle jack is a 3 ton. It had plenty of room to lift the body over the engine and fuel tank, could have lifted it a foot or so more and that is with the car sitting on jack stands at a height that still allowed me to reinstall the wheels.
Its funny, I have a 3/4 ton Suburban that sits stock height and has a big block and my hoist will not lift the engine out over the radiator support unless I remove the tires and lower the truck, but it worked to lift the Corvettes body off with no problems.
That's what I need to know! Thank you!
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #68  
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I had the last two days off so I spent them working on the vette! I finished with the sanding on the seams that I refilled and the other areas that I repaired and then sprayed two coats of primer. I had a few low spots and some small divots that I sprayed a 3rd coat just in that area that is why in the photos there are a few areas that look like runs, but its just areas that I tried to build up.
Next I am going to work on other thinks like the dash area, under the hood and completing my exhaust. I will block sand in a few months and will paint in the spring. I just have to much left to be able to paint anytime soon and its getting cold here. Today was warm, mid 60's but lately the highs have been low 50,s and freezing and snow/ice at night. Will save the block sanding for when it is to cold to do anything else. Last January with a big propane heater I was able to get the garage up to the mid 30/s but that's because it was below 0 out side. I sure do miss living in Texas!
Here are a few photos in primer.




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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:58 PM
  #69  
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Also I have to wait to finish because I don't know what I want to do about the bumpers.


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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #70  
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mac79vette,

Everything is looking great! I know how you feel about the weather. After 5 years the Army just moved me from Ft Bliss in El Paso to Ft Meade between Baltimore and D.C. It'll take me a while to get used to the "cooler" weather out here, but hey, at least it was green out here this summer. Where are you at now?

Mike
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #71  
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Progress has been slow lately. Busy at work and its been cold, in the negatives with high temps in the teens. In my garage with a propane and a electric heater I can only get temps to the high 40's.

Started working on the insulation and getting the various parts on the dash installed.






I need to order more insulation
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:16 PM
  #72  
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Here are a few photos on the start of my fuel lines from the pump to the carb.


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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:21 PM
  #73  
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When I got the car in 1998 one of the valve covers were cracked so I replaced them with ones from Ecklers. They apparently were powder coated and the black powdercoating was coming off so I attempted to strip it with paint striper. Still have some to get off and then will polish the valve covers. I am also thinking about having them re powdercoated but with a coating that is similar to aluminum. Any thoughts on what would look best?
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 11:41 PM
  #74  
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So I am really close to picking out a set of rims. I know what size I want but have been torn on a rim. I want to try to keep "in the spirit of stock" or as others may say retro. Most of the rims that I like just scream after market, but I found the American Racing Rally wheels which I think will fit the bill.
I am going to go with 18 X 8 with 255/45/18 on the front and 18 X 10 5.5 in back spacing with 285/40/18 tires on the rear.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by mac79vette
Also I have to wait to finish because I don't know what I want to do about the bumpers.


I love how is coming along, what experience do you have? How many hours did you spend on the car so far?
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 04:58 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by mac79vette
Any luck with the bumper?
The bumper is of is was pretty hard to remove like yours I am sure. Now I am deciding what to do with it , I want to modify it a bit.

Keep up the good job!

Last edited by silver79; Dec 11, 2013 at 06:28 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 11:40 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by silver79
The bumper is of is was pretty hard to remove like yours I am sure. Now I am deciding what to do with it , I want to modify it a bit.

Keep up the good job!
Yes the bumpers were a pain to remove. Do you have photos up of what you are doing and what kind of modification do you plan to do on it?
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #78  
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I just purchased a 79 vette and want to do the same thing right down to the black and silver paint job,love it,ive already purchased a 383 stroker,carpet set radiator,calipers,roters,suspension bushings etc.frome the firewall back it looks pretty easy,but from the firewall foreward it looks kind of scary especially in the front where all the headlight crap is,is there any pointers you could give me,i want to look just like your when I get it done.thanks for any help
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 09:40 PM
  #79  
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Kudos to the very clean and nice job.
I love that black primer look.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:28 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Hmmmmmmmmmmm........

Two PVC flanges joined together with the correct length of PVC pipe to equal 1" from flange face to flange face.

Then remove excess material so that flanges are the same diameter as the blower housing and the box housing mating surfaces.

Drill mounting holes in PVC flanges to match OEM holes in the box and the blower housing.

Paint designed for plastic parts should stick if PVC is wiped with acetone to remove slick surface before spraying spacer.



Thank you for the idea of a center piece and the two flanges. I decided to make it out of sheet mettle.



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