New member, first time on. You guys do know your cars. Have been reading post for some time.
My question is, I am trying to get the history of a 69 coupe. has 427 components, like radiator, hood etc according to owner. Now has 350 borred to the max. Would like to buy and put a series 427 that is close to mfg back in the car. Present is engine runs strong. Should I just keep it the way it is and not spend money to try and get it close or original? Will it make a difference in value for the future?

 

The big question is, was it a BB car to begin with?

 

Even if it was an original BB car the engine is long gone, thus not original anymore. Even with another BB it will still not be original. So question is if you want a BB or not and willing to spend the $$$ that goes with it. That said, go for it they are fantastic engines.

 

Will look at in the next few days. I am going with, what the seller is telling me, until I look for myself. Plan on keeping car.

 

If you want a big block car...and you are concerned about future value and someday getting most of your money back...then spend the money and buy one with the original drivetrain and factory documentation.

Otherwise there are plenty of nice big block cars around, without their original drivetrains...and you don't need to change the engine. I would be looking for one with a newer GM crate engine...like a 454 or 502.

 

Hi mrh,
A 69 is a nice car and quite valuable.
I think that if you can determine it actually was a 427 car when it left St.Louis then getting it close to that configuration would increase it's value.
BUT, it might not increase the car's value as much as it costs in time, effort, and $$, to get it back to being a bb car.
The next thing to decide is if that's what YOU WANT, there's no sense in doing that if you're not going to enjoy the process and get pleasure from doing it.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Like others have said, it can only be original once. Have fun with it, if you want to put a big block into it, go for it. The value will probably only increase slightly, depending on the original documentation. But if you do want to go for it, and it turns out to be a BB, try to at least get the period correct and dated as close as possible to get any future value. Enjoy the ride and have fun.

 

Thanks to everyone responding. I appreciate your input and value your opinion. Really wanted an original like I had. Really started out wanting a 69, 427, vert, unless you find one unmolested, they out of my budget. Thanks again I will let you know of my progress. You have reinforced many on my thoughts.

 

If the car was originally build with a big block and IF all big block components are still present, that will save you some money. To bring it back to a configuration similar to what it was build with originally you will have to find a big block motor and all brackets, misc parts which were unique to the big block. Cost of the motor will depend on how authentic you want this to be. Find a correct date coded block, heads, intake, etc.. This will take time and cost more than putting another big block in there. Depends on what you plan to do with the car, driver or for judging?

Does the seller have the original engine or the parts?

So far as future value goes, it depends on the buyers at the time you want to sell. A collector won't be interested, it will depend on how much someone may pay for a nice big block, non numbers car vs a small block. A matter of personal preference.

A modern version big block would be tempting to try out if you're comfortable with possibly having to fabricate parts? I don't know if the modern versions are necessarily a bolt in swap. If they are, the electronic engine controls, efficiency, better gas mileage would be attractive.

I personally like the old school big blocks, simple, something I can work on. Love the torque and the sound..

If you're on a budget, certain you will never be able to afford a true original, this could be an option though tracking down another engine, rebuidling and chasing down correct parts could be expensive. You may be better off looking for a NOM big block car with all the parts in place. Again, assuming you're sure your budget can't be raised...

Best of luck..

 

Budget wise I want to stay under $25000.

 

What is your take on a 68, 427, compared to a 69, 427. There one on vette hound for $28000

 

I'd imagine you could find a matching numbers big block within that budget, barely but I've seen a few advertised. I never heard what shape they were in...

So far as 68 vs 69 goes, depends on your personal preference. The 68 has many parts unique to that year. If the car you are looking at is in great shape, doesn't need anything, it shouldn't be an issue. The 69 may be a bit more refined, 2nd year for the C3 design.
Either would be fun to drive.

 

The cars are virtually identical minus trim pieces that are '68 only.

 

Hi mrh,
I looked at the 68 car at Vette Hounds. (Blue Convertible?)
It makes a nice appearance in the pictures.
The first thing to realize is that $28k is far too little money for a 'real' restored 68 427 convertible.
So you'll have to do your homework to determine just what this car is.
It might be a very nice car, but we have no way to know that from the info at hand.
It really depends on just what you want your car to be as whether this car might be an option for you.
Regards,
Alan

 

You'll also need to make sure the car has no "hidden" mechanical issues like suspension, tranmission issues, rear diff - things you can't see in photos or from a distance. You don't want to end up buying the car with the expectation of spending the rest of your budget on a BB engine swap only to find out that your money and time is going to have to go elsewhere to make the car drivable. In the end you'll end up selling it before doing any work or after doing the work because you don't have what you really want.

In terms of vaue, about 5-6 years ago I had a 350/350 NOM and did a BB swap. Car was a strong "driver" with factory side exhaust, PB, PS, that looked very nice - sold it for about $25,500. I think that was a fair price for both parties. This is just to give you a sense of values - which may actually be a touch lower these days. FWIW.