Frame Powercoat or Paint
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 13,018
Likes: 2,262
From: Corsicana, Tx
2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
2020 Corvette of the Year (performance mods)
C2 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
2017 C2 of Year Finalist
Definitley powder coat. I did mine 16 years ago and it still looks fine. No peeling or rust etc. There are many different shades of black to get the exact color you want.
It's been extremely durable. If it peels off..it had poor preparation. It absolutely has to be rust free, clean and dry before coating. They *dusted* mine by sandblasting it immedately before coating to make sure there was no surface/flash rust anywhere.
I also "acid dipped" my frame and powdercoat was sprayed inside the rails also.
JIM
It's been extremely durable. If it peels off..it had poor preparation. It absolutely has to be rust free, clean and dry before coating. They *dusted* mine by sandblasting it immedately before coating to make sure there was no surface/flash rust anywhere.
I also "acid dipped" my frame and powdercoat was sprayed inside the rails also.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; Jul 14, 2013 at 11:29 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Glen Carbon IL
I went with POR 15 and I am extremely happy with the results! I don't have any pics but I would recommend the product! It was perfect for my 73 rest-mod project and helped me keep costs in line without sacrificing quality.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Looks like we all have a lot of different anecdotes. I had a lot of sheet metal interior parts/radiator frame, etc powder coated on my 68. $$$$$ I has later horrified to see some rust. Apparently the powdercoater left some pits in the paint (?) that later developed rust. I had to overpaint with rustoleum. I noticed Alan's response...powercoat it and then paint over it with the correct paint.. that pretty much covers the bases.
Some of my rear suspension parts that I ordered were powdercoated. They were chipped in shipping (VBP), rather than return them and go through the hassle, I just painted them over with POR15.
Some of my rear suspension parts that I ordered were powdercoated. They were chipped in shipping (VBP), rather than return them and go through the hassle, I just painted them over with POR15.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I'm not a NCRS purist. However, my guess is that Eastwood's black chassis paint is pretty close. When you say you want a correct black, I think you mean that you want a black paint with the correct gloss. Gloss is the first consideration, and then the thickness of the paint. Some frame paints are very "thick." I use Eastwood's but I'm not a NCRS purist...(although I like to remain true to the original car as a guide).
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 450
Likes: 6
I'm not a NCRS purist. However, my guess is that Eastwood's black chassis paint is pretty close. When you say you want a correct black, I think you mean that you want a black paint with the correct gloss. Gloss is the first consideration, and then the thickness of the paint. Some frame paints are very "thick." I use Eastwood's but I'm not a NCRS purist...(although I like to remain true to the original car as a guide).
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi mft,
I believe semi-flat black is the general description for the paint used on the chassis and of other painted parts of the era we're interested in.
Actual most people agree that the degree of gloss varied from part to part and often depended on how the part was painted. For instance the frame was quickly sprayed and may have less gloss than some small brackets that were dipped, and might have more paint on them, thus they MAY show a higher level of gloss.
So I guess a 'range' of gloss would be appropriate and that range can be obtained by how wet you make the coats of paint, and how far you hold the spray valve from the piece you're painting.
It's all fun!
Regards,
Alan
I believe semi-flat black is the general description for the paint used on the chassis and of other painted parts of the era we're interested in.
Actual most people agree that the degree of gloss varied from part to part and often depended on how the part was painted. For instance the frame was quickly sprayed and may have less gloss than some small brackets that were dipped, and might have more paint on them, thus they MAY show a higher level of gloss.
So I guess a 'range' of gloss would be appropriate and that range can be obtained by how wet you make the coats of paint, and how far you hold the spray valve from the piece you're painting.
It's all fun!
Regards,
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
I went with paint 20 years ago. After driving once in a while over the last 3 or 4 years, I'm seeing erosion, some rust starting up again. If I were to do it over I'd opt for powder coating, assuming if there were any flaws where rust may start, they'd be much easier to deal with than doing the whole frame over. I'd look into which coating gives you the best long term, maintenance free life. 
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