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Fuel pump bolts harder to solve than the Da Vinci code!!!
I am replacing the fuel pump on my 76 which is my first ever "major" mechanical repair on a car. I cannot for the life of me get to the bolts that hold the pump on. I have the front right wheel off and the car jacked up by the body, but I cannot get to the bolts. The right bolt I can kind of get to from above, but with a socket on the wrench it is too wide to fit in the gap and with a short extension it is too long. Then the left hand bolt I cannot get to at all. Is there a trick or something that needs to be removed to get access because I am frustrated and ready to tow the car to a mechanic, but I really would like to finish the job and get a notch on my tool chest.
Cheers
Kev
Last edited by C3smallblock; Aug 1, 2013 at 02:30 AM.
Use a wobble socket sometimes called a universal socket. You'll need to pull the 2 upper bolts and then either remove the upper bolt in the front of the block and temp install a longer one, or pull the plate under the pump, dip the rod in some wheel bearing grease and stick it back in. The grease will hold the rod until you get the plate and the pump back on.
Hang in there. Fuel pump is really an easy job.
Oh, I think I found it. I was looking all around the fuel pump, but I am guessing it is the bolt that comes through from the font of the engine, just level with the pump (the bolt faces north/south), does this sound like the one?
Yes. Get a longer bolt and only turn it in finger tight to retain the pushrod in place while you are changing the pump. Couldn't hurt to put some pipe joint compound on the bolt after you are all done.
The easiest way to get to the fuel pump bolts is through the wheel well but you need about an 18 or 20 inch extension. It's worth the cost of the extension and if you're like me it will become one of your favorite tools. There are lots of bolts where the long extension allows you to clear all the obstacles and you are able to get a good swing on the ratchet.
Yes. Get a longer bolt and only turn it in finger tight to retain the pushrod in place while you are changing the pump. Couldn't hurt to put some pipe joint compound on the bolt after you are all done.
What he really means is Anti Seize on the bolts when reassembly. I hope The gasket while you can use a silicone sealer on this one it is not really needed because it is a paper gasket. If you do use one use it very light and spread it very thin than let it dry for an hour before installing the part. I have replaced a few fuel pumps in my day and oil has never leaked from the gasket provided. You do not need to torque it really tight just about 60 inch pounds will hold in if you have a 1/4 inch torque wrench. Torque by hand just tighten it without lots of torque holding the hand close to the rachet. Inch pounds not foot pounds of torque is all you need.
Thanks for the tip. I actually completed the job last weekend and that was exactly what I did, two very long 1/4" extensions through the wheel well was the solution.