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question about door/widow re-assembly

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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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Default question about door/widow re-assembly

I now am on the final task of finishing my 68' coupe project..the doors are now back on the car and adjusted. i am hoping someone who has either done this recently, or does it on a semi-regular basis can answer this question....(the doors are COMPLETELY gutted and bare except weatherstrip)

what is the best order or sequence to re-assemble the windows, door lock mechanisms and window felts etc??? i just want to make sure i don't install one item only to find out that i SHOULD have installed another item first! btw, no electric windows.....
thanks for any advice you may have. Rick

OH, and one more question...what is the best way to clean up the old lock mechanism?? solvent? or something else? kinda crusty and stiff (old grease etc) thanks!

Last edited by razman; Aug 5, 2013 at 04:07 PM. Reason: additional question
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Hi Raz,
I cleaned the mechanisms and tracks with solvent and then used lithium grease on them while reinstalling everything.
I installed the tracks first. Then the regulator. With the upper stops not installed the regulator can lift the window mechanism high enough so it can be connected to the glass and the rollers started in the tracks, begin to wind the mechanism down, install the upper stops, and begin the long window adjustment procedure.
Protect the glass well so it doesn't get scratched while you're doing the adjustments.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan




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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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thanks Alan...great pics as always! what about the window felts/seals, can they both be installed after window goes in, or before? Rick
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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What about adjusting the window glass after a new install? Other posters have said they had a terrible time getting the widow glass adjusted.

.......Not a hypothetical question. I have Pilkington window glass on the way for my 68. Pilkington bought out Libby Owens Ford glass, so Pilkington can legally add the LOF logo to windows. I'd like to gain some expertise with this because I'd like to next restore the 70 PW doors. The 70 is a big mess. The 68, manual windows, is pretty clean as far as the regulators and internal grease goes. The 68 is a low mileage car. The 70 is a high mileage car.

I've already bought all the widow nylon buttons, rollers, rubber seals, etc for both cars. I'll be putting in all new repro door latches for the 70..already bought them. The 68 has a new drivers side door latch..can't remember..but I think it's NOS.

.................For 69 and up, the repro door latches appear to be good quality and fit. If you can replace your 35-40 year old door latches with new...do it. The interior latch pivots get contaminated with sand/dirt and wear out the pivots...a bind can result, and when you use a little muscle to overcome the bind, you bend the soft steel 0.070 inch lever arms. At this juncture your door latch is history.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 07:24 AM
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Hi 68/70,
You asked about adjusting the door glass....
I depend on the door section of the AIM.
For coupes UPC 1 sheets K 10 and K12 have the diagrams, and sheet K11 has the 19 step procedure.
NOT easy on the best days.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 07:26 AM
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Hi Raz,
I installed the ss trim and felt seal before I started on the glass installation.
You have to be very cautious with everything you do so the glass doesn't get scratched.
Regards,
Alan
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan 71
...You asked about adjusting the door glass....I depend on the door section of the AIM...

All the AIMs have a page (some have two pages) outlining how assembly line staff were to adjust the door glasses. My advice is to read through the material three or four itmes to begin to get an idea of how the process is supposed to go.

...NOT easy on the best days...
Also agree. Door glasses are tee-jus. And...to add a little misery, the 68 stuff is one year only.

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