Is it the motor or could it be something else?????
Thank you for your help.
1981 Coupe

 

Hello Delta,
Did both windows quit working or just one?

 

Go to the owners manual and find the window fuse and ck that first.
Next, may not seem easy but pull the console cover to get to the window switches and ck for +12 across the switch.

Or pull the door panel and ck for + 12 at the motor connector when the switch is pushed for down or up.

That will tell you power, switch or motor

 

just the right one.

 

bigvette1, got the manual and magnifying glass but can't determine witch fuse it is.?

 

Since one window still works, the fuse is good. The door panel has to come off. Unplug the wiring at the motor. Test for voltage at the motor when the switch is pushed. If no power, bad switch. If power, bad motor. If so, hold the switch and hit the motor with a hammer. It might work, temporarily.

 

Sometimes the wiring will break right at the door from years of opening and closing.

 

This is from a '75. Maybe it will help.

 

This happened to me and after replacing the power window motor, it still didn't work.
Come to find out it was a severed power window wire between my door jam. Took it out, spliced it, taped it and like magic...it worked!! Good luck.

 

Good info. Still a PIA to work on

 

Not as likely, but don't rule out the possibility of a jammed mechanism. I had this happen once when a lower regulator mounting bolt came loose.

 

Did you check the power window switch?

 

Thanks to you guys I have a plan of attack. This forum is great!

 

This happend to me a few times, turned out the power wire connector plug came off the motor. Had to actually glue it to stay. You will have to pull the door panel to check. First check the fuse and switch, but ill bet.....

 

I had problems with the power driver's window on my 77.

First the window regulator had a piece snap off. Heard it snap and retrieved the piece from in the door.

There is actually a replacement part you can buy and bolt onto your existing regulator to fix this. I just replaced the entire regulator with a new stainless steel unit.

Then the window would still not go up. Purchased a new motor but that did not work, so then I replaced the switch.

BINGO! Now the window works better then when I purchased the car. Should be good for another 30+ years.

 

I've been on the go for a couple of weeks and got back in town yesterday. I haven't had time to get to it but I thank you for all your help.

So yesterday is clear and sunny so I figure I'll go out for a quick spin of the beach. No rain in sight.

Why not give the window a try. I hit the button and........

IT GOES UP!!!!!

So, what does that tell you????????

 

That tells me the motor is bad. It will happen again.

 

The power window motor can fail...but it is the least likely cause of failure in that 'system'. The most likely cause is a broken or loose wire. This could be at the switch, inside the rubber boot at the door jamb, or at the motor. Don't forget that the ground wire could have broken; this will prevent the motor from running, also.

When you get the inner door panel and the P/W motor cover off, remove the power plug (two 'squeeze' tangs, then pull). The wiring harness has three wires in it (might need to unwrap a bit to reach the third one). Make sure all the connections are solid to their respective connectors.

You can check to see if the motor works only in one direction by getting a #12 or #14 jumper wire and running it from one of the plug connections to the opposite contact in the motor socket. Now, turn the ignition to ON and try both directions of the switch. If that causes the window to operate, move that wire to the mating contact in the motor socket. If the motor is OK, it should work in the other direction. Now, run the jumper from the other connection in the harness connector and do the same tests.

If one connector wire is functional and the other is not, you most likely have a switch problem. But, it could still be just one failed power wire....either at the switch or in the door jamb tube. Check the switch first.

Good luck.

P.S. If you find a "bad" switch, I would recommend that you try to disassemble and repair the switch before buying a "new" one. The aftermarket switches are not that dependable.