nothing in my stupid chilton/haynes reagarding order. assume lt rr, rt rr, rt ft, lt ft?

confirm?
ty

 

Work from the closest caliper to the farthest. The rear calipers have two (2) bleeders, each; so complete them in the same sequence.

LF, RF; LR-inner;LR-outer;RR-inner;RR-outer.

Essentially, you want to "chase" the air through the system from the nearest bleeder to the farthest bleeder.

Bleed brakes slowly (if you use the brake pedal)...both in downward and upward direction. You don't want the shuttle valve in the brass block (commonly misunderstood as a 'proportioning valve') to get pushed out of its central position.

Bleeding the brakes is not as simple as sticking a plastic hose over a bleeder and pushing the pedal down. That plastic hose MUST have a complete seal on the bleeder, so that no air is brought back into the system. I have a method which I use to guarantee that seal is good. I doubt many folks use that method.

I know how my Dad taught me...and it works well. And, I read about how so many folks have lots of trouble. So, I know that I'm doing it differently. BTW, where is the 'Primer' on "How to Bleed Brakes Properly"?

 

The only thing that really matters is that you do the inside bleeder on each rear caliper before you do the outside bleeder. At least that's what everybody on the forum says. But I saw a video recently where a Chevy spokesman said outside first then inside. The bottom line is that when you open any bleeder screw air and/or fluid will be pushed out. When you've done it enough times on all the calipers there is only brake fluid left and you have a solid brake pedal.

I found the video. He says it at about 2:50 into the video.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...and-seals.html

 

did not know bout that brass what ever. thanks. knew bout the two valves on the rears.

usually it's the furthest away from the master that one should start out on. hmmmm.

the order, up front, lt first then rt, is also odd. though the shuttle might dictate LF b4 the other. longer line to the lt side.

i will check out the clip. gotta confirm the order. the one suggested, may very well be correct. it's just not typical. but then neither is a vette.
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typically brake bleeding, for me is simple. or should be. trained USAF hyd/neumatic tech, fighter aircraft.

 

I guess it doesn't matter if it works in that order. When I did my brakes, I started with the furthest caliper first, RR inner then outer, LR inner then outer, RF, then LF.

 

The 'Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual' for your model year will describe the [manual] brake bleeding procedure pretty well in "Section 5 - Brakes". It also suggests that you use a special tool to retain that "combination valve" in normal position. But, you can get away without that tool, if you depress and lift the brake pedal slowly, as I described. Go too quickly and that combination valve will trip and you will only have half of the brake system working (until you put that shuttle valve back in 'center' position).

The other 'trick' that my Dad taught me was to submerge almost all of the bleeder hose into the brake fluid [which you first put into the bleeder can; the hose end which stays in that can must remain below the level of that brake fluid, as well]. Then, use a small clamp or small Vise-grip to pinch-off the end that is out of the fluid...about an inch or two from the upper end. That will keep the tube full of fluid until you insert it onto the bleeder valve. Then you can release the 'clamp'. Now there is a "head" of fluid in that tube trying to PULL the air and fluid out of the caliper, once you open the bleeder. Also, if that fluid level in the tube starts dropping before you open the bleeder, you know that the seal between the bleeder and tube is not good. When you finish bleeding one caliper, just put the clamp back on the hose/tubing before you pull it from the bleeder, and it will be ready to install on the next one.

Being able to see only the air that is being released from the caliper is a real help in knowing what is happening during the bleeding process.

 

per link "my 76 ray" provided, the gm rep said lr outter then inner, rr outter then inner, rf then lf. to keep even the smallest bit of air from remaining, prolly do it that way. but yea, in the end, i will do whatever the fricken ride likes.

do these have the corrosion issiue inside the calipers? no wait, he said they changed in 75 to a different caliper. duh. obviously since there's an inner/outter to do. not so on first gen discs. right? or does that only effect bleeding issues. not corrosion in the bore.
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the issue i really have stems from it sitting for ten years. brake fluid is like mud. and the inlaws, who own it (hopefully it will be hand-me-down) don't wanna spend the 200+ bucks on at least a new master. which i think is simply reclous. as they go to the floor now. changin fluid in the hopes it recovers is not a safe option for me.

 

On the rear calipers you MUST bleed the inners first.

 

if i "MUST"! k then. ty.

 

Work from the fathest caliper to the closest.
1. Left reaer
2. Right rear
3. Left front.
4. Right front.

 

An excellent example of why no one should rely on the Chilton/Haynes for the picky stuff.

Left rear inner
left rear outer
right rear inner
right rear outer
right front
left front

Not sure why the service manual says to begin with the left inner, but it does. I have begun with the right inner and not had any problems.

 

Thanks Mike...
I'm confused...
Reading the sequence I have ALWAYS understood:
Farthest first then sequentially working towards the shortest line.

However I see:
"STEP FIVE: Each brake must be bled in the correct sequence. The general format is to bleed the brake most distant from the master cylinder first, but some cars require a different order. That information is available in the factory manual or from your dealer’s service department"
So, I now see "some" applications" require shortest "line" first.

What should we be doing on our C3s?
My Hemi Superbee (1970 Dodge Coronet) requires Last/Longest first.
My Shelby is same.

Thanks,
"mark"

 

being a hydrastic guy, i had full intentions of starting furthest away. inner and outter were a Q. but you all addressed that fer me. and that brass rod/pin. doing it slooowly.

the problem at this point, won't be air. but mud for fluid. been thinking bout a pwoer flush. but that frickin brass rod/pin kinda scares me. think i'll just pull all four corners, flush, install, then bleed. master will be new/remanned. only 19 bucks more than a rebuild. soo.....

ty all.
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you guys know if the tach should read anything key off? mine sits at around 22hun. goes to zero at first turn key though. have had issues keeping a charged bat for over a week. chalked that up to the alarm system drainage. but a just noticed the tach thingy.

 

I have a "power-bleeder"
DX-25
You hook it up to a compressor and set gage for 60psi to 80psi.
Just open the Brake Bleed nipple, and let it draw the air/bubbles and fluid out.
Simple, quick and easy1

 

Here are a few pics of the simple procedure.
Most of the time spent is simply "setting-up".

Pic 1: Jacking the C3. NOTE: I usually place jack-stands on "4-points" but I simply used 2 jack stands and 2 jacks.
Doors and Hood OPEN as the other guys have stated!

Pic 2: Using a "level" I try to keep car level for this simple procedure.

Pic 3: Some "tools" you will need. Plus. It's importand to be able to "shut-off" the flow quickly. That is why I use the quality "Snap-On" wrenches, they are slim. I have a "Power-bleeder". Its a Vacula DX2.5Hook it up to your compressor line, set it for 60-80psi and it makes the task a single person job.
NOTE: You can see the 2 damaged nipples and the corrosion on the threads. Replace damaged, corroded nipples. Give careful observation to this.

Pic 4: Performing the "Bleed" process. Simple and straight forward.

Pic 5: You can see the fluid flowing through the line. When there are no air bubbles and fluid looks clean, simply close the fitting.

This simple procedure took less than 1 hour to perform.
Again, setting up takes most of the time.

Good luck and remember:
Do these projects yourself. It helps you gain confidence for much larger, more technical projects.
The money you save by doing these tasks allow you to purchase the "tools" needed. You SAVE money !

"If you F_#k something up, no big deal, it can be fixed.

Good luck!

 

ty Super bee ski. but me just has coffee cans and plastic hoses. and a ten yo kid to push brakes. or the wifey.
w/o a power bleeder, prolly will remove the calipers and flush the mud out. gavity feed. dress 'em up whilst they be on the bench. purdy 'em up. wire wheel, self etching primer. black or yellow brake paint. prolly oe black.
gots me a rattle and some cv/u-joint noise back there too. no ring gear slap. so that's good.

ty sir. fair effort in posting that. yours looks purdy. silver/white. little gun metal two tone? lower rockers/fender lips? mines blk/blk.

 

All sounds good unlawfullone,
Best of luck to you.
glad to see YOU work on your car.
Sometimes I get the feeling on this Forum that "not everyone" knows how to change a spark plug"
LOL

 

LOL big time!
still scratching my head on how to pull #3 plug w/o pulling an engine mount. steering gear in the way. gonna try one of those cheap thin tube stamped type sockets for like lawnmowers and such. get a box ratchet to work over that maybe.

 

Go from underneath the car.

 

yea. that was a given. i'll get it.