Chassis Paint
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 322
Likes: 11
From: Staten Island New York
Chassis Paint
I have a '77 and I want to clean up the Chassis, Upper and Lower control Arms and repaint them. What type finish should I go with, Stain, Semi-Gloss or Gloss. Also is there a special paint for the Chassis or can I go with paint from Home Depot.
Last edited by news2me; Aug 27, 2013 at 11:14 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
People buying paints,and other stuff for repros, often buy Eastwood products. They sell a frame paint whose gloss is I think is similar to factory. I've used it extensively on the frame of my 68 and the frame of my 70. I try to get absolutely all oil and grease off of my frames before painting, but Eastwood advertises that their frame paint will stick with some slight oil contamination.
Most of my 68 frame was coated by gross oil leakage from the engine. Over the years, the accumulated oil, sand, and age had turned this into a semisolid mass. When I scrapped it off, cleaned it with acetone, etc, I had an almost mint 68 frame....no rust!!
.....................
Don't want to rave on...I used to try to have everything powder painted. It's expensive and short story, in my opinion it is not, except for some particular circumstances, cost effective. I've stopped using powder painting and gone back to paint...its a decision not driven by cost.
Most of my 68 frame was coated by gross oil leakage from the engine. Over the years, the accumulated oil, sand, and age had turned this into a semisolid mass. When I scrapped it off, cleaned it with acetone, etc, I had an almost mint 68 frame....no rust!!
.....................
Don't want to rave on...I used to try to have everything powder painted. It's expensive and short story, in my opinion it is not, except for some particular circumstances, cost effective. I've stopped using powder painting and gone back to paint...its a decision not driven by cost.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Aug 27, 2013 at 11:24 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 987
Likes: 7
From: Surrey British Columbia
I had my frame chemically dipped to remove any rust and all dirt and oil/grease. It was then dipped in zinc phosphate followed by a gloss powder coating. The chassis frame looks exceptional. Absolutely no complaints and would do it again in a heartbeat. The frame is the very backbone of your car. It has to be 100%.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 44
From: East TN
I had my frame chemically dipped to remove any rust and all dirt and oil/grease. It was then dipped in zinc phosphate followed by a gloss powder coating. The chassis frame looks exceptional. Absolutely no complaints and would do it again in a heartbeat. The frame is the very backbone of your car. It has to be 100%.
Same here. But don't acid dip it if the frame is still attached to the car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
I am not sure about any product at Home Depot. Honestly, I would recommend something that is designed for painting a chassis, Eastwood has good products as 68/70 said.
I wire-wheeled the entire frame and suspension parts to remove loose rust. Power wash with marine clean, use the rust encapsulator, and then paint.
Marine Clean: http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-marin...FUqk4AodP2IARg
Here is a good "kit" from Eastwood: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-satin-ext...-kit-w-re.html
I recommend a satin finish if you want to stay close to the original finish as possible.
I wire-wheeled the entire frame and suspension parts to remove loose rust. Power wash with marine clean, use the rust encapsulator, and then paint.
Marine Clean: http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-marin...FUqk4AodP2IARg
Here is a good "kit" from Eastwood: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-satin-ext...-kit-w-re.html
I recommend a satin finish if you want to stay close to the original finish as possible.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi n2m,
Lots of opinions on this question and people reporting good results using various finishes.
The frame was typically various degrees (even on the same frame) of semi-flat black.
Many other of the chassis parts, suspension parts, and engine compartment items, were semi-flat black too. But they TOO often varied in degree of gloss often because of the method used to paint the part.
For instance a part that was dip painted often will be a bit shinier than a sprayed part.
You mention the a-arms... these were typically shinier than the finish on the frame.
I believe you should at least take a look at the various material available from Eastwood before you buy your paint.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Lots of opinions on this question and people reporting good results using various finishes.
The frame was typically various degrees (even on the same frame) of semi-flat black.
Many other of the chassis parts, suspension parts, and engine compartment items, were semi-flat black too. But they TOO often varied in degree of gloss often because of the method used to paint the part.
For instance a part that was dip painted often will be a bit shinier than a sprayed part.
You mention the a-arms... these were typically shinier than the finish on the frame.
I believe you should at least take a look at the various material available from Eastwood before you buy your paint.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Stock frames were painted in cheapo semi-flat black. I agree with Alan; other parts could have received what amounted to a better quality paint job.
Home Depot paint is fine if you want to go that route.
For reference, here's an 81 at St. Louis. Note the different gloss levels.
Home Depot paint is fine if you want to go that route.
For reference, here's an 81 at St. Louis. Note the different gloss levels.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Is the word "paint" really correct for the chassis finish? I always considered it to be more of a "coating". Easily removed with mild cleaning such as simple green.
WB
WB
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi WB,
Since the material used on 70+ frames is described as an enamel base, (as compared to the 68-69 use of an 'asphalt' base), I'd call it 'paint'.
Perhaps the simple green removes it now because of it's surface deterioration?
Someone posted within the last couple of weeks that they were stripping exterior lacquer with Simple Green.... which is surprising to me too.
Perhaps Simple Green is now coming from China and is actually lacquer thinner tinted with tea leaves.
Regards,
Alan
Since the material used on 70+ frames is described as an enamel base, (as compared to the 68-69 use of an 'asphalt' base), I'd call it 'paint'.
Perhaps the simple green removes it now because of it's surface deterioration?
Someone posted within the last couple of weeks that they were stripping exterior lacquer with Simple Green.... which is surprising to me too.
Perhaps Simple Green is now coming from China and is actually lacquer thinner tinted with tea leaves.
Regards,
Alan
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
Eastwood Chassis Black. They sell a satin, but I much prefer the gloss.
One note from my personal experience: Chassis black is great over bare metal but finicky about what primers it'll stick to. If there's surface rust on the part to be painted, hit it first with a rust convertor like Loctite Extend or One-Step Rust Killer & let it dry overnight before painting.
Chassis Black over One-Step is a very durable coating. We have some cast hurricane lamps that sit out on our patio from April through October. Wife brought them home and after the first night outside they were covered with rust. I wire brushed them and gave them the One-Step/Chassis Black treatment and they are just starting to show some rust at the joints after 5 years.
One note from my personal experience: Chassis black is great over bare metal but finicky about what primers it'll stick to. If there's surface rust on the part to be painted, hit it first with a rust convertor like Loctite Extend or One-Step Rust Killer & let it dry overnight before painting.
Chassis Black over One-Step is a very durable coating. We have some cast hurricane lamps that sit out on our patio from April through October. Wife brought them home and after the first night outside they were covered with rust. I wire brushed them and gave them the One-Step/Chassis Black treatment and they are just starting to show some rust at the joints after 5 years.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,381
Likes: 416
From: N J
Go with good old Rustoleum rattle cans or a large can that can be sprayed. Pick them up at the Home Depot and they will work just fine. I went with the gloss to help make cleaning it simple.
I used the specialty chassis paints in the past. Cost more $$$ and never really saw any advantage.
I used the specialty chassis paints in the past. Cost more $$$ and never really saw any advantage.
Well, I prefer the Satin
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
I think the semi-flat hides the imperfections in the frame's surface a bit better than gloss and also is easier to touch-up without leaving a 'blush' around the area you've touched up.
I still believe it's worth the effort it takes to find the original formula Krylon #1613 Semi-Flat Black.
Regards,
Alan
I think the semi-flat hides the imperfections in the frame's surface a bit better than gloss and also is easier to touch-up without leaving a 'blush' around the area you've touched up.
I still believe it's worth the effort it takes to find the original formula Krylon #1613 Semi-Flat Black.
Regards,
Alan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
Go with good old Rustoleum rattle cans or a large can that can be sprayed. Pick them up at the Home Depot and they will work just fine. I went with the gloss to help make cleaning it simple.
I used the specialty chassis paints in the past. Cost more $$$ and never really saw any advantage.
I used the specialty chassis paints in the past. Cost more $$$ and never really saw any advantage.
Then I sprayed Rust Oleum Satin on the frame and it came out great. Cans sprayed quite nicely. I also used John Deere Blitz Black to vary the gloss on some of the other parts like the rear crossmember. The A Arms were a higher gloss than the rest so I was going to use Rustoleum semi-gloss. The Rustoleum does take a while to dry but I am extremely satisfied with the results. Really like the price!
Duplicolor makes a prep sol type aerosol to get bare metal clean and then I go over it once more with lacquer thinner for good measure before spraying.
Bill
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 430
Likes: 31
From: Ontario
For anybody living in a rural area, John Deere sells a medium gloss black enamel that looks great on frames. I have some old JD garden tractors and used it on all of them with very good results. Just the right shine and very durable. They also have a durable flatter paint called Blitz Black that's good for rough areas where too much shine is not desirable. They both come in rattle cans, quarts and gallons. You need to use their thinner too. I think Valspar makes their paint so maybe it's available under that brand name too. Here's a tractor frame I did with the medium gloss. It's a tad dusty.
This pic depicts the shine factor exactly. That's what it actually looks like in person.
This pic depicts the shine factor exactly. That's what it actually looks like in person.
Last edited by army; Aug 30, 2013 at 05:38 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 4
From: Fort Worth Texas
I painted a car trailer with implement gloss black enamel from tractor supply. I think it was Valspar and cost around 45.00 for a gallon. It has been 2 years and has held up good in the sun. I think they also sell it in flat black or semi flat black. I would recommend it for a frame.