Doorgunner's '68 Convertible Project





I'm guessing the problem would be the #4 gill on my car. The front of it rests against the "airbox" on my '68.
Below are pics and a couple measurements of my clip-less '68.
I think....the angled piece of fiberglass that the white arrow is pointing at is actually a remnant of the original #4 gill that the original owner did not remove when he installed the '76 "vent" into the fender.........
You can see in both pics below the 8 inch "mark"....right or wrong, that was my reference point for installing the gills....
The #4 gill normally is a "dummy-gill"....it is sealed-off so that water and dust will not be sucked into the oval vent door.......
I MAY make the #4 gill functional, but I would have to "notch" the airbox and seal the notch to keep water and dust out of the kickpanel door-vent.
When I set the clip onto the car "just to see where I am at"...I will decide about the #4 gill.
Sorry I couldn't help you very much as your car may be different behind the fender.
BUT...to repeat....I'm sure you can handle it.

Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 22, 2021 at 02:20 AM.

I assume that big darker oval in the pictures is a flapper valve for interior ventilation?
Last edited by Priya; Jun 22, 2021 at 12:53 PM.





If your car doesn't have that door assembly you are probably better-off/less hassle doing your gill mod. (I had those in my '69 vert Camaro and always liked the airflow ...that's the only reason I am not deleting the door-vent assemblies).





I saw the box of parts for the headlite Relay and decided to test-fit the piston and rod assemblies.....
I bought the 5/16" brass washers and mocked-up the piston assembly.......
one end of piston/o-ring/brass washer........
o-ring is inserted into piston-lip-seal cavity/brass washer is placed on o-ring to hold it inside the lip-seal....the other end of the piston is stacked the same way. (not shown)....
The assembly is placed onto the diaphram rod and held in place with the 4-40 tpi nut rather than risk re-crimping the tip of the rod..........
Note: As another member said...the I.D./hole in the brass washers is slightly oversize and slips past the lower crimp on the left end of the rod....
The brass washer holes will be filled with silver-solder and re-drilled to .096" so the washer will fit tightly on the rod and firmly against the lower crimp. The nut will hold the brass washer on the right end of the piston in place . (I did not try to re-crimp the right-end assembly onto the rod since I was afraid the new crimp would possibly cause the tip of the rod to break off from being too thin in the crimped area)
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 22, 2021 at 02:57 PM.
If your car doesn't have that door assembly you are probably better-off/less hassle doing your gill mod. (I had those in my '69 vert Camaro and always liked the airflow ...that's the only reason I am not deleting the door-vent assemblies).
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts






?'78-'82? per Web?






I ended up buying a pack of 10 bras washers 5/16" O.D.(perfect) & 1/8" I.D.(
)...but couldn't find any with the ITTY BIDDIER hole in them....hence, soldering gun.You may have dodged a big hassle if you install gills.
MEANWHILE......it took only 3 weeks to do 8 hours work/$80 worth of insulation and Aluminum HVAC tape......
TAAAA DAAA (per recovery room nurse).....
I'ma need sunglasses when I look that way

Last edited by doorgunner; Jun 22, 2021 at 06:45 PM.





I think the early C3's have a cable direct to the vents, but not on my 79 that I know of. I think jts all operated through the heater/ac controls beside the fan on the centre console.
Last edited by Priya; Jun 23, 2021 at 12:36 AM.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 23, 2021 at 07:11 AM.
















