Nice

 

I am only responsible for the guides, not the belt

I had a spare set so sent them along to a good home!

 

Good job

 

It's the little things that mean the most sometimes.

 

The brain is still functioning at 35% (way up from functioning at 9% the last five months).

Maybe tomorrow I can install the driver's side seat belt since I already drilled the necessary hole in the inner driver's rear fender well and installed a temporary grey shoulderbelt in order to pass the State Safety Inspection last month.

All I need to do is swap to the new red belt and drill/tap the upper seat frame for the nice shiny '69 seat belt guides that Boston Camaro supplied to me !



EDIT: Thursday........Seat belt swap..........Didn't happen.

Because...the engine miss is getting worse and really bothering me/all the s.p.wires read great on the ohm meter/the plugs are new but starting to get slight build-up on them/the spark is down to an orange-red limp/the P.O. installed an HEI distributor in the 1970 350 engine/I had to remove the resistor wire to the distributor when I bought the car and replace it with a better wire from the fuse box/Thanks to the members who posted the HEI thread in July---I now know to replace that ignition module so my right arm will fly past my head the next time I pull the#1 wire off the plug with the engine running!

 

I have finally made it through 33 pages - impressive progress!

I am sorry to hear about your struggles along the way and wish you a happy future (except in Baton Rouge tomorrow between 7 and 11).

 

Except in B.R between 7pm & 11pm? ?

........................................ ...................(I'm thinking)........................................ ........................................ ........................................ ..............Ohhhhhhhhhh---now I get it!

Alabama vs. LSU...........ought to be a good one!

I am going to the garage now to work on tired distributor......(I can do this!!!!)

 

Yes you can

 

Keep up the good work Doorgunner, the hardest part is getting into the garage.

 

I made it into the garage after 5 months of mind-games!

First........the good news.........

The contact in the distributor cap was disintergrated, so, while I had it off, I replaced the ignition module and coil with spare parts.....lots of spark now......idles smoothly.....revs fast......





I also removed that $12 brand new "stuck-closed" thermostat....now the temp stays at 160*F at 70*F ambient air......




The newly installed alternator is doing it's thing......




I still need to add a relay to operate the electric cooling fan that is dedicated to the engine-only by pulling ambient air through two 4" diameter ducts from the two front lower grills...........




Now for the bad news...............the engine won't start after I turn the ignition off.....the gas tank has 1/2 tank per guage and visual inspection (all lines and filters have been flush/changed.......the fuel pump is working well---it's even holding pressure at the carb inlet......the accelerator pump is squirting well...the timing is at 12* BTDC.....good spark at the plugs.....plug wires tested great with ohm meter........spark plugs are tan.

I have to turn the idle air screws out 6 turns for a smooth idle---IS THAT "NORMAL" for a fairly new Edelbrock 600 CFM 4 barrel carb/vacuum secondaries??????

BUT......I can crank the engine 10 times in a row----it will barely try to run but will not start....it WILL NOT start by holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking.....I can tap the gas pedal down about 1/2" repeatedly while cranking the engine and it will eventually start and idle/rev perfectly. Then....when I turn off the ignition-----the hard starting happens again!

Once I get the starting problem solved, it will be time for another test drive!

Anybody have a clue as to what is going on with the hard starting (I realize it can be a dozen things,) but maybe rookie me overlooked something?

33900

 

Hey DG, great to see you back in the garage and making progress

I'd think there's an issue with your carb, if you were closer I'd let you try out the one I just replaced to see if that helped.

Keep making forward progress brother

 

Great Job Doorgunner.
Keep up the good work.

 

GP...........thanks a bunch!

Airborne......I'm going to the garage and yank the top off that thing to see if my rookie eyes can spot a problem.

 

Well......if I connect the vacuum advance to the carb emissions port....the engine dies when I try to rev it!

When I connect the vacuum advance to the non emission port....the engine dies when I let the engine idle!


Annnnnnd.......I still have to hold the pedal to the floor for the engine to start!





HELP!

 

Does it pull good vacuum at idle...Is there any way you are loosing fire to the wires only during advance....with both vacuum ports plugged can you gun it without it dying then the dizzy
is weight advancing only no vacuum
also does it seem to be rich...any gas smell and or smoke from exhaust
I am leaning to the accelerator pump still not right and or vacuum issue

 

BATS.....I forgot to check the pull.

It idles and revs great if the vacuum advance is plugged off.

All the stupid stuff happens when I connect the vacuum advance to either carb port.

I still have to hold the pedal to the floor to start it.....if Idon't hold the pedal down it smells gas anf flames out of the carb when I try to start it without flooring the pedal.

 

I backed off the linkage on the accelerator pump this afternoon----the acell-pump rubber is new.

 

Is the "rubber" black or blue? Blue is neoprene and works with ethanol fuels. Old style rubber will stick in the pump shaft and cause flooding or the feeling of a stuck throttle cable. A friend had that trouble with his '64 Buick. My 2 cents.

mike

 

Mike.....I forgot what color it is, but the edelbrock is designed so that the linkage will pull the pump rod up no matter what.....I took the carb apart and worked the plunger by hand to make sure it wasn't sticking.....

I have it set to prevent the engine from sucking fuel from the pump bore (that happened on my Holley carb---the 350 truck engine would run rich and puff smoke because I had the pump plunger set too deep, also it would stick down in the bore....so I understand what you were talking about)

The engine runs great/idles great/revs great/plugs are tan colored.....it's just having to give it full throttle to get it to start. I don't even mind giving it full throttle to start it---it's just that it would start in 3 seconds before this problem happened.

I'll try to borrow another HEI distributor and install it to see if my tach drive distributor has some bad electronics(I already replaced the cap with known good spare part because the center contact was shattered ruining the cap---while I was there I replaced the module and coil because of bad arcing on the rotor)

 

Transferred post from "Pulling out hair" thread: Sorry about the blurry pics/camera accidentally set on "Macro"......


GOOD NEWS!

Everyone was right! I checked everything three times that the members advised me to do.

I even compared ohm readings on the old and new ignition modules (the old one was fried)

One pump on the gas pedal/turn the key for 1.5 seconds/the engine starts/idles/revs/.........better than it ever did.

The spark plug wires are throwing a 3/4" long spark from the bottom of the boot opening! And to think---I was previously happy just to see a spark across the .045 spark plug gap.


Secret weapons.....troubleshooting guides and carb rebuild diagram with instructions.......






Old/fried parts.........







Good vacuum at 600 rpm........(for 13Bats)



34380