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When you get the front clip on and painted, I have a bottle of champagne I’ve been saving in the fridge!
I’m going to crack that thing open and toast you and your 68.
It is wonderful to read that you can finally drive your car Tony!!! Lou.
NOT YET, LOU.....I still have to repair the driver fender. But I;m closer!
Originally Posted by OldCarBum
When you get the front clip on and painted, I have a bottle of champagne I’ve been saving in the fridge!
I’m going to crack that thing open and toast you and your 68.
I'll drink (Ensure) to THAT !!!
I have to fab two supports to mount the condenser tomorrow...maybe?
The radiator is about finished. I have to seal some gaps to keep the hot air going down under the engine instead of going past the upper & lower radiator hoses where they enter the rear wall of the hot air deflector.
The radiator is in place and clamped......The condenser is in place and pusher fan is mounted......
Not much to see here...not enough shoulder room to get an overall pic. This is inside the hot air deflector with the puller fan ready to boost the hot air coming thru the condenser and radiator and blow it down under the engine.....
Tomorrow I will reconnect the wires to the pusher fan which is on the condenser, and reconnect the 10 second delay relay to the Puller fan on the bc side of the radiator (to prevent power surges from both fans turning on at the same time (per experienced members)
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 15, 2026 at 04:30 AM.
That is a great reminder Tony.
There are also threads where many members use a soft start system on their electric fans to keep the power spikes to a minimum.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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I had the DeRale PWM soft start and it lasted only one 1 season....went through 2 before I gave up on the soft start systems.. I use the Dakota Digital programmer. It still works fine after 2 seasons. ITs not soft start but I can set the start temps for 2 fans at 2 different settings. I also run a seperate main power 6 lug buss bar off the main cable from the starter so the alternator wont wouldnt see a spike for each fan. The trigger for the relay coming off the controller. The battery itself absorbs the spike
OCB...I bought a PCM module a couple years ago but the PTSD wouldn't let me program it
Thanks for the idea, though
R.R. AAAHaaaaa...You answered that question before I asked!
.I was getting my little brain focused on reconnecting the fan pusher and puller wires that run to the relay box. I'll rewire the two fan #30 relays (one relay is instant-on/the other relay is 10 second delay-on just to be safe) terminasl to get power from the bus bar I installed last year (next to the firewall relay box). .....and use the temperature switch as a ground connection to turn on the fans,
Thanks Guys for keeping an eye on me.
NOW...to find the front fender splash shield so I can fab a driver side shield
(UNLESS I find one in the Parts For Sale Forum)
I found a pair of "Splash Panels" which normally are part of the inner fender. It;s nasty looking, but both pieces for $70 was a deal conpared tp buying both inner fenders for $700. Ill dress it up/repair some notches and holes for installation into the front of the passenger fende for shape and support......
I wore my little self out getting that piece...I'll go back to the car collectors yard in a day or two to remove the driver's side splash panel.
The repairs are fiberglassed on both sides now. I will sand them down tomorrow and fit the splash panel into the underside of the passenger fender......
Rather than a rubber seal at the top of rhe shield I will fill the gap in with fiberglass for more support.
NOPE..couple more home projects...but I did a little to the splash shield.
I sanded the repairs smooth and covered the whole panel with some HOT resin (extra hardener) except for the edges that will get panel adhesive....I made the repairs thicker than the oem shield.....
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