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68 Rear Window Frame Question

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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 02:35 AM
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Default 68 Rear Window Frame Question

I am wondering how the rear window frame on a 68 coupe comes apart? I would like to polish the metal, clean the glass and re-align the bottom rail as it seems to be a tad off in the corners. Thanks in advance, Jason
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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I believe they are the same as the 72's
Here's how I took mine apart to replace the glass
M

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...placement.html
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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Hi 13,
I believe there is a small flat headed screw and what appears to be a tiny 'drift' pin in each bottom corner.
Since the frame is anodized I don't know just how you'll protect the aluminum after you polish it?
Regards,
Alan

Mooser, you beat me to it while I was looking for the pictures!!!!




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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:48 AM
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Hi Alan
That first picture looks familiar
M
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Hi m,
I tried to get the same angle as your picture.
I realize now how the angle makes the 'ledge' in the extrusion almost disappear. I think that was part of the reason I had SUCH a hard time figuring out what your picture was.
Notice how it appears the 'pin' was 'set' long, and then ground off flush with, (or a little below), the surface of the extrusion.
FUN!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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I'm perplexed?

I only see a dowl pin (through and through the frame), no screw. Is this a 68 thing? No wonder the corner is pulling away. Any advise as to what to do to get the frame apart? Pound them out? Should I drill and tap for a screw? Thanks, Jason
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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Hi Jason,
Is that a screw head on the SIDE of the frame?
As to what you should do.... you really can't polish the aluminium because of the anodizing.
Yes, you can remove the anodizing and then polish... but the finished appearance will be different than the original. Does that matter to you?
Regards,
Alan
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:57 AM
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Looks like yet another piece of 68 &$%^*&

Almost looks like a nail head on the side mushed over.
My guess would be the screws were added later to prevent/correct the splitting apart you described.

If the glass is in good shape (not scratched etc) maybe just mask it off well and take some fine steel wool (00 or 000) and give the frame the once over with something like flitz polish to bring a little life back to it.

As Alan said, buffing is a bit of a pain since you need to go through the anodize. Plus, these aren't as nice as some other parts, the extrusions and bending left a lot of marks and strange hard/soft spots (lines) so it does buff up but needs a lot to get them real smooth. (yes I stripped and buffed mine but it had been hit with the same DA that marked the glass)

If you do need to blow it apart, make sure you get the proper tape to put it together again, PIA to use urethane
M
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:26 PM
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Thanks so much guys. If I can get the driver's corner to come in flush somehow, I'll drill and tap screws into it like the later models to hold it in place. Then I'll just clean it up real good as you recommended M.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 07:27 PM
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Just curious, how early is your VIN number? Maybe the early 68's did not have the screw to hold the window frame together. Lou.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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I have not done much research on the VIN, maybe you can tell me about my car? The VIN is 194378s410808. That number is from the pink slip. Where's the VIN located on the car? The pink slip also has a "body type model" number of cp19437.
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 07:22 PM
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13611, In your VIN, the 37 means that you have a coupe. A convertible is 67. Your 68 was the 10,808 made in 68. The main VIN is on the driver side windshield pillar. You look at it from the outside, through the glass. Original frames have two VIN stampings, the one is on the driver side top of the frame, by the #4 body mount. It is very hard to see, even with a mirror. If the frame is a little rusty, you can't even see it. Lou.
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