I've had a few C3's in the past, so was quite pleased when I purchased my latest ('71 convertible) when I tried the wipers, and they worked fine. I know they can be a bit of a struggle to get working properly if they don't.

My first little excursion was a hundred miles away or so, spent the night in a motel, came out next morning, heavy dew on windshield..activated the wipers, and they wouldn't shut off, eventually the rubber on the wiper blade seperated..now frantic not wanting to damage the windshield, I popped the hood, and pulled out the wire plug connector to the wiper motor to stop it (easier for my 6' 6" frame then getting under the dash to pull the fuse).

When got back home, I removed wiper switch (which came apart in pieces in my hand). Bought and installed new switch and wiper blades. Now it seems the wiper door doesn't open far enough for the wiper blades to clear (they interfere with the wiper door-not allowing them to function). The wiper blades I purchased were 16" ANCO (hookey ugly blades with plastic adaptors), The wiper blades I removed were an aftermarket ANCO 16" blade (like the ones I just bought), and an older version 14" ANCO on the other side. The original ones cleared the wiper door fine.

I know, finally the question..Do I try to adjust the wiper door to open up higher (if so, how do I do it?), or look for the older metal type-what appears to be a slightly lower profile ANCO blades?

 

Nope.

Yep. Purchase reproduction stock metal blade holders if the two you removed were not originals and use the correct blade refills.

 

The wiper door probably is opening all the way, but we on the other end do not know that. You can check the opening dimension by disconnecting the two vacuum lines on the wiper door actuator, an then opening and closing the door by hand. Observe the differences if any manually and under vacuum power.

There is a cutoff or override switch for the wipers under the steering column to kill the power to the wipers just for this reason and others. It is the middle switch (large ****) between the two smaller pull down switches. Looking from the floor, clockwise is on, and counter clockwise is off. Don't know how you changed the blades, but this is how you do it also.

 

Hi t,
Either Mike or Dave, or BOTH may be right.
The replacement blades make the wipers hit the door, AND, the door must open (cycle) fully because after it moves UP it moves FORWARD which helps give the wiper arms the needed clearance.
PLUS, remember that the limit switch must be adjusted so the wipers don't start until the door is fully open.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Thanks for the response guys, it is appreciated.
I changed the wiper blades when I had the wiper door off (top pivot/arm was missing bolt) found out, it was missing due to the old bolt broken off.
After drilling out broken off pivot bolt in wiper door, I then re-tapped with new threads, and replaced with new pivot bolts and the nylon bushings.
I am aware of the override switch-but for some reason never thought of it, at the time (panic mode).
I will now replace my wiper blades, with proper correct ones.

 

The wiper door has to be opening far enough to trip the interlock switch on the firewall, otherwise the wipers wouldn't come on. I had a similar problem when I installed service replacement wiper arms and generic blades. I went back to repro arms and correct blade holders and blades. Clearance problems solved.