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I wish I could answer your question, but I had to rely on my engine builder for the technical stuff.
I was just passing along what he told me so you could avoid any issues with your build.
Hopefully someone here with more experience than me can answer your question.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Sep 3, 2020 at 04:30 PM.
Yes I had adhesion issues with the steel sections, which I first painted on Page #8. No adhesion issues with the raw fiberglass sections though, which I first painted on Page #9. I have had more trouble getting the SPI epoxy to stick to steel than for the PPG epoxy. I recently repainted the steel floor pans on Page #26.
Years ago I cut off all the old seam sealer. Lots of scrubbing involved with paint thinner and acetone to get to clean raw fiberglass. Look at Page #10.
The beige seam sealer was then applied on scuffed gray SPI epoxy primer, about 5 years after those early Pages. My wife pays me $100 for each hour I leave her alone while I work on the vette, so I'm taking my time...
The Dart SHP 400 short block came in but the Dart Pro 1 top end kit was delayed by at least 2.5 months. Apparently Dart had a serious factory issue and fell behind.
4.125” bore x 3.750” stroke, standard deck height 9.025", 2 piece-rear-main-seal, forged 4340 crankshaft upgrade, forged pistons upgrade, H-beam rods with 7/16” ARP 2000 Bolts upgrade, coated cam bearings.
Thanks guys! A small update. SBG gave me some of his blue pills & at his suggestion I also bought a dehumidifier to absorb the PNW moister. I have been collecting water for next summer's grass watering.
He suggested KBS Motor Coater. I picked Chevy Grey & like it.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.