I can not find it anywhere in the Dallas area. mike...
Krylon 1613
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 350
From: No Where USA
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
69fastfun contacted me and is getting me a quote together!! Said once I pay I should receive it in 2 days!!!! I and stoked...
This simple question thread actually turned into some good info. Thanks guys.
I'll post up some pics in my rebuild thread as I go through the process.
Scott
This simple question thread actually turned into some good info. Thanks guys.
I'll post up some pics in my rebuild thread as I go through the process.
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
You have to be careful which 1613 you get. The new stuff you get at the auto parts store is a semi gloss and not the correct sheen. They call it 1613 but its not.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 193
From: Scottsdale Arizona
I just checked pricing on the Krylon 1613 and the price is 4.34 per can. I also checked on stock and we have 1498 cans. We usually have closer to 2000 cans in stock. Fatcat I send you an email with a quote
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,729
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From: Scottsdale Arizona
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
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From: Norwalk Ct
the new version is horrible when it comes to re-coating and lifting. Its based on there Alkyd paint forumla (spelling) not the old laquer based version. There's a number of online or local industrial plaves that sell it (MRC and Grainger for example)
I also found a company called Seymour paints make a very good satin and flat black in laquer formulas, get that from the local Levines.
I also found a company called Seymour paints make a very good satin and flat black in laquer formulas, get that from the local Levines.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
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From: Tulsa Oklahoma
I am also hearing John Deere Blitz Black is really good too! In true FatCat form, I found some locally and tried it out tonight. What do you guys thinks of the sheen here?
Scott
Scott
Last edited by FatCat; Oct 7, 2013 at 11:08 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
John Deere Blitz Black
I tried John Deere Blitz Black. Great paint but too glossy for the frame.
I do use it on other parts just to vary gloss levels in keeping with how the parts left the factory as best I can.
I found that Rustoleum Satin Black looks very good on the frame. I know one very high end Corvette restorer that used this paint until he ungraded his shop to paint in a booth. Rustoleum is the paint I used on my frame.
It also touches up really well.
Bill
I do use it on other parts just to vary gloss levels in keeping with how the parts left the factory as best I can.
I found that Rustoleum Satin Black looks very good on the frame. I know one very high end Corvette restorer that used this paint until he ungraded his shop to paint in a booth. Rustoleum is the paint I used on my frame.
It also touches up really well.
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi FC,
To my eye the sheen is o.k., but at least in the area near the bottom of the picture it doesn't look like the surface was prepped well enough... sorry.
I realize that side of the carrier can't be seen when it's installed.... but?
Did the rubber bushing get painted too?
I don't mean to be stepping on your toes but I'm not sure what your goal is? That will determine how good this looks.
Regards,
Alan
I saw a really nice sign in a restoration shop on Sunday... "Better is the enemy of good"!
To my eye the sheen is o.k., but at least in the area near the bottom of the picture it doesn't look like the surface was prepped well enough... sorry.
I realize that side of the carrier can't be seen when it's installed.... but?
Did the rubber bushing get painted too?
I don't mean to be stepping on your toes but I'm not sure what your goal is? That will determine how good this looks.
Regards,
Alan
I saw a really nice sign in a restoration shop on Sunday... "Better is the enemy of good"!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi FC,
To my eye the sheen is o.k., but at least in the area near the bottom of the picture it doesn't look like the surface was prepped well enough... sorry.
I realize that side of the carrier can't be seen when it's installed.... but?
Did the rubber bushing get painted too?
I don't mean to be stepping on your toes but I'm not sure what your goal is? That will determine how good this looks.
Regards,
Alan
I saw a really nice sign in a restoration shop on Sunday... "Better is the enemy of good"!
To my eye the sheen is o.k., but at least in the area near the bottom of the picture it doesn't look like the surface was prepped well enough... sorry.
I realize that side of the carrier can't be seen when it's installed.... but?
Did the rubber bushing get painted too?
I don't mean to be stepping on your toes but I'm not sure what your goal is? That will determine how good this looks.
Regards,
Alan
I saw a really nice sign in a restoration shop on Sunday... "Better is the enemy of good"!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,373
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi FC,
On the frame the sheen is described as semi-flat black.
BUT, because of the way the frames were painted and then stored, the sheen varies from frame to frame, and even in different areas on the same frame.
I think it's MUCH MORE IMPORTANT HOW EASILY AND WELL THE PAINT WILL TOUCHUP THAN JUST WHAT EXACTLY THE SHEEN IS, AS LONG AS IT'S NOT GLOSS OR FLAT.
Regards,
Alan
Painting a frame is like painting a body.... 98% of the labor happens before the paint goes in the gun. The finished appearance all about preparation.
On the frame the sheen is described as semi-flat black.
BUT, because of the way the frames were painted and then stored, the sheen varies from frame to frame, and even in different areas on the same frame.
I think it's MUCH MORE IMPORTANT HOW EASILY AND WELL THE PAINT WILL TOUCHUP THAN JUST WHAT EXACTLY THE SHEEN IS, AS LONG AS IT'S NOT GLOSS OR FLAT.
Regards,
Alan
Painting a frame is like painting a body.... 98% of the labor happens before the paint goes in the gun. The finished appearance all about preparation.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hi FC,
On the frame the sheen is described as semi-flat black.
BUT, because of the way the frames were painted and then stored, the sheen varies from frame to frame, and even in different areas on the same frame.
I think it's MUCH MORE IMPORTANT HOW EASILY AND WELL THE PAINT WILL TOUCHUP THAN JUST WHAT EXACTLY THE SHEEN IS, AS LONG AS IT'S NOT GLOSS OR FLAT.
Regards,
Alan
Painting a frame is like painting a body.... 98% of the labor happens before the paint goes in the gun. The finished appearance all about preparation.
On the frame the sheen is described as semi-flat black.
BUT, because of the way the frames were painted and then stored, the sheen varies from frame to frame, and even in different areas on the same frame.
I think it's MUCH MORE IMPORTANT HOW EASILY AND WELL THE PAINT WILL TOUCHUP THAN JUST WHAT EXACTLY THE SHEEN IS, AS LONG AS IT'S NOT GLOSS OR FLAT.
Regards,
Alan
Painting a frame is like painting a body.... 98% of the labor happens before the paint goes in the gun. The finished appearance all about preparation.
Thank you for that clarification of the sheen.
I am finding myself being maybe too **** about prepping this frame. After painting the car last winter and the problem I had, I agree 100% on the prep.
The piece I shot last night was a I am bored! Oh let's see how this paint looks. What should I shoot, oh shoot the crossmember, you still have to finish getting it down to bare metal so the paint will come right off. Hahaha
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Hey everyone, I have a rebuild thread if any of you want to follow it. Here is the link.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ld-1973-a.html
In this thread we will accomplish the following, a frame on restoration that will included but will not be limited to: cleaning and painting the frame, trailing arms, brake system, rear end, replace yokes, repair and restore suspension, pull the engine to re seal and paint, transmission, scrape and paint the car, replace the seat covers and carpet and restor dash as well as shifter plate. My timeframe is to accomplish everything by May except for the interior.
My goal is to restore to original factory/NCRS specs.
It should be a fun winter and I will post lots of photos.
Your help andotivation would be really appreciated.
Scott
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ld-1973-a.html
In this thread we will accomplish the following, a frame on restoration that will included but will not be limited to: cleaning and painting the frame, trailing arms, brake system, rear end, replace yokes, repair and restore suspension, pull the engine to re seal and paint, transmission, scrape and paint the car, replace the seat covers and carpet and restor dash as well as shifter plate. My timeframe is to accomplish everything by May except for the interior.
My goal is to restore to original factory/NCRS specs.
It should be a fun winter and I will post lots of photos.
Your help andotivation would be really appreciated.
Scott
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
So here is the end results of the John Deere Blitz Black, it is basically the same thing as the Krylon 1613. I am going to still get the Kylon for the front suspension to have some variation on some of the different parts.
I got a little sag on the crossmember to fix but overall really happy!
This will be the last post on this thread so I will be posting all future work in the rebuild thread unless anyone has a question here. Thanks everyone!!!
I got a little sag on the crossmember to fix but overall really happy!
This will be the last post on this thread so I will be posting all future work in the rebuild thread unless anyone has a question here. Thanks everyone!!!