I am looking to buy a 68-72. I have 10-15k to spend. Being the fact that I have never owned a corvette before. I would like some help. I have owned several GTO's so I know cars, somewhat. My questions start with, are there any options that are nice to have and are there options that will hurt the value, when I look to sell. I would appreciate any and all help. I dont have to have a conv or coupe, SB or BB, 4sp or auto.

 

Search out the most complete, original, honest, un-molested, rust free car you can afford.
Options can add value for sure, but a clean original car trumps that.

 

Hi Wb,
Second Post!!! Welcome!!!
I think tok summed it up well.
For 68-72 cars the price will vary greatly based on the originality of the car and it's condition.
Convertibles, cars with optional higher horsepower engines, 4-speed transmission cars, a/c cars, and cars in desirable colors, will generally bring the most money. Combinations of those things in the same car make that car more valuable.
At $10 to $15 thousand you're sorta at the bottom end for good solid original cars, but in an area where you might find a good well modified car.
In all cases the condition of the frame and the body's steel birdcage will be the first and most important thing to determine. There are very rust 68-72 cars out there.
What are YOU looking for in a 68-72.
Regards,
Alan

 

You may want to post in the forsale section what you are looking for.That will give people that are selling a chance to show you what they have.

 

Welcome...I'm a new member myself and have received much valuable info from other members. I was very close to purchasing Lyle's white 1973 convertible about a month ago in the C3 For Sale forum, but I found a similar car 1,000 miles CLOSER to my home. His price is around $8,000, which would leave you extra $cash$ for tweaking the car to exactly "what you want to drive".

It's still for sale!

 

I'm definitely no expert but for $10k-15k I would think you can get a decent basic car or a fixer upper optioned car.

 

"What are YOU looking for in a 68-72."

Alan71, I would love to have a 68, 427 conv, But I know that will not happen with the price range I have. I would like something that is drive able or at least close to it. I have the winter months to work on something and have ready for spring.

 

Hi Wb,
I think in the price range you mention you'll probably looking at 71-72 small block coupes.
Many people believe you need to buy a car that's VERY complete and in good condition. Buying a cheaper car is easier up front BUT there's very good REASONS they're cheaper.
Regards,
Alan

 

You may be able to find a NOM big block car in that price range. 'Numbers Matching' big blocks carry a hefty premium. In either case, condition is most important, rust will quickly turn into a nightmare when it comes to repairs, especially birdcage rust.

If originality isn't important to you, be aware that customizing an 'original' car to suit your tastes reduces value. Some hang on to original parts to get around this. If you choose to go the NOM route you're pretty much free to do whatever you wish with the car though they are said not to appreciate as much as true originals.

Best of luck with your search.

 

Not sure what you mean, but you are going to have to make some choices. You can have a coupe or a convertible; your choice. You can have a small block or big block; again, your choice. Ditto for the transmission.

There are probably no factory options which could hurt the value of a C3.

I agree with the others, you want as much car as you can purchase for your budget.

Buy a copy and learn about potential selections:


Good luck.

 

just do your research and realize that you can trade off originality for condition.. meaning you can buy a better condition car that does not have the original components for the same price that you would buy a worse condition car with its original components.

make sure you buy at the correct price so that when you want to upgrade to another car, you can sell it for a comparable price.

I would always advise rookies to not play the matching numbers/originality game on your 1st corvette.. too much potential to get burned and overpay. save that for the next car so you have more time and experience if you do decide to play the numbers game.

also think of the frustration factor buying a car for 15K that needs 6K or work vs. buying a car for 21K that needs nothing.. do you care about spending that extra 6K now or later. you will spend it later...

effectively double all your estimates for your "winter projects"

these cars don't depreciate so spend as much money as you can for the best condition car you can get, so you can ultimately sell in the future without losing money..

good luck...

 

For that amount of money, you will only be in the market for a small block coupe. 68-72 convertibes and big block engines (in decent condition) will cost you significantly more than you have.

I suggest that you purchase from private owners ONLY. Dealers can't sell such a car for that amount of money, unless it is in poor repair or has mechanical problems.

The most important things to look for are:

1. a clear title that proves ownership.

2. No "bad" rust on critical areas of the frame. Check behind kickpanels for condition of front body mounts for rust. Also assess windshield frame for rust damage and/or inquire about leakage around window frame. Heck, pour a bucket of water over the windshield and look for leakage!! If the owner balks...forget that car.

3. Make sure the condition of the paint is good enough for you and/or that you can make simple repairs of small nicks/chips. If there is more damage than that and you are not a skilled painter, go for another car. Those paint blemishes don't look so bad when you are buying the car; but once you have it, they will eat at the pit of your stomach!!

4. Make a good assessment of any missing/different parts on the car. If you have to replace missing/damaged parts after you buy it, the expenses will drive up the REAL cost of the car very quickly.

5. Check out the function of EVERYTHING. Engine/trans/drivetrain, steering, braking, lighting, wipers, cockpit controls, radio... EVERYTHING. Once you've purchased it, what doesn't work is YOUR problem.

Good luck!!

 

I think the thing that can put a C3 in the grave quicker than anything is a badly rusted out birdcage or frame. If you buy a car with either of those problems it will cost a significant amount of money to repair.

When I bought my car the ad said 85% complete (complete as in parts not assembled) Most of the parts were not correct for a 71. That 15% that was missing plus incorrect cost me about $8k. Not one of my better business deals. Still I have enjoyed it and would do it all over again.

 

I, personally, wouldn't rule out a 73. I think they are better looking with the non chrome front bumper. Plus, they are probably less expensive than the double chromes. By that, I mean you could probably get more car for your money. Many felt the 73 had a better ride and it was Duntov's favorite.