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Did you ever replace or rebuild the steering box it self ? Have you checked its adjustment ? I mentioned this before , you passed it by and stuck with alignment , I realize it is easier if that is the issue but if that steering box is to tight it DOES exactly what your complaining about.
Did you ever replace or rebuild the steering box it self ? Have you checked its adjustment ? I mentioned this before , you passed it by and stuck with alignment , I realize it is easier if that is the issue but if that steering box is to tight it DOES exactly what your complaining about.
Steering box has been rebuilt. I've tried going both ways with the adjustment on top of the box & no improvement. Can someone tell me if the alignment readings I posted are acceptable?
I am having the exact same problem with the addition of the steering feeling stiff. Mine has not been to the alignment shop yet. Everything on the front of mine has been replaced including all bushings, tie rods, 550lb spring and shocks on 255/50/17's. I just didn't think it would be that stiff.
I am having the exact same problem with the addition of the steering feeling stiff. Mine has not been to the alignment shop yet. Everything on the front of mine has been replaced including all bushings, tie rods, 550lb spring and shocks on 255/50/17's. I just didn't think it would be that stiff.
I was really hoping someone would let me know if the alignment settings I posted are OK and if not what the settings should be. I am at a loss at this time as to what the problem might be.
Ok this may be a stupid reply but I haven't seen anyone ask if the fluid in the power steering pump is correct. I had the same issue with my pickup, thought it was something wrong in the steering box, found out power steering fluid was low. Felt dumb but was relieved.
The Print Out The Shop Gave Me Reads As Follows:
FRONT:
Caster: .8* &. .9*
Camber: .1* & .2*
Toe: 1/32" & 1/32"
REAR:
Camber: .1* &. .1*
Toe: 0" &. 0"
What do you guys think are these settings what I want.
For normal driving I use:
Front:
Camber: -1/4 to -1/2
Castor: +1 1/2 to + 2 1/2
Toe: +1/8 to +3/16
Rear:
Camber: 0 to -1/2
Toe: +1/16 to + 1/8
These specs came from the Dick Gulstrand GT alignment sheets and are for "Touring" 1963-1982. There are other setting for different kinds of racing, but most of us spend the vast majority of our time on the street, so I use these specs.
Factory specs for my 81 from the manual are:
Front:
Caster: +2 1/4 plus or minus 1/2
Camber: +3/4 plus or minus 1/2
Toe: +1/4 plus or minus 1/16
Rear:
Camber: 0 plus or minus 1/2
Toe: .06 degrees plus or minus .06 (I'm not sure what the conversion to inches would be)
Ok this may be a stupid reply but I haven't seen anyone ask if the fluid in the power steering pump is correct. I had the same issue with my pickup, thought it was something wrong in the steering box, found out power steering fluid was low. Felt dumb but was relieved.
I would suggest that you look at the control valve.
When you turn a corner (lets assume a left turn), you turn the wheel which swings the pitman arm right which pushes the control valve right. Once the valve has moved and is allowing steering fluid to operate the ram, then your input and the ram input all combine to actually move the steering assembly right which makes your wheels pivot and point left (because the steering arms point rearwards from the spindles).
Now we have turned and are letting go of the steering wheel to allow the car to self-centre. The the wheels now try to pivot back to centre which means the steering assembly is trying to move back to the left. This has a similar effet on the control valve to the original left turn, ie. it is activating in the direction that will operate the ram in a left-turn assist.
This will cause the effect of not self centering, with the driver having to physically turn the wheel back to centre.
When correctly set-up, the control valve is spung to hold it a a central position where it won't operate fluid flow, this will allow the wheels to "push" left without the valve operating.
The two scenarios where the valve will operate while self-centering are where there is excessive drag on the steering wheel/colomn assembly, or where the valve spring pressure is insufficient to resist the normal self-centering forces.
A second symptom of control valve spring fault is that there will be reduced pressure on the valve input shaft, which will allow the steering to feel slack and wandering.
These symptoms sound identical to your description, so I would check out the valve.
There are lots of good articles online, just Google "Corvette Power Steering Control Valve".
I would suggest that you look at the control valve.
When you turn a corner (lets assume a left turn), you turn the wheel which swings the pitman arm right which pushes the control valve right. Once the valve has moved and is allowing steering fluid to operate the ram, then your input and the ram input all combine to actually move the steering assembly right which makes your wheels pivot and point left (because the steering arms point rearwards from the spindles).
Now we have turned and are letting go of the steering wheel to allow the car to self-centre. The the wheels now try to pivot back to centre which means the steering assembly is trying to move back to the left. This has a similar effet on the control valve to the original left turn, ie. it is activating in the direction that will operate the ram in a left-turn assist.
This will cause the effect of not self centering, with the driver having to physically turn the wheel back to centre.
When correctly set-up, the control valve is spung to hold it a a central position where it won't operate fluid flow, this will allow the wheels to "push" left without the valve operating.
The two scenarios where the valve will operate while self-centering are where there is excessive drag on the steering wheel/colomn assembly, or where the valve spring pressure is insufficient to resist the normal self-centering forces.
A second symptom of control valve spring fault is that there will be reduced pressure on the valve input shaft, which will allow the steering to feel slack and wandering.
These symptoms sound identical to your description, so I would check out the valve.
There are lots of good articles online, just Google "Corvette Power Steering Control Valve".
Good luck,
Douglas
A little additional information: when I balanced the control valve it wasn't what I would consider responsive. It seemed sort of sluggish in comparison to a 77 that I had. I am thinking a faulty control valve as you suggest or a bad power steering pump (low pump pressure). Either of which I would think would result in high steering effort & the steering not wanting to return to center
Have you checked the front tire pressure? I have had the same issue in the past and found that if the tires are not inflated properly the wheel will not return.
I did check tire pressure & it's at 20 psi at all 4 corners
This sounds like an alignment issue. With modern tires you need to have more positive caster in your alignment than the stock specs called for. Caster at near zero will cause the car to wander on the road and to be slow to return to center.
I did check tire pressure & it's at 20 psi at all 4 corners
Modern tires are designed to run at higher pressures to get to the same load rating as the old ones. The higher pressures reduce rolling resistance and slip angles.
Try 28 or 30 psig.