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1970 LT1 for sale on Craigslist, Alabany. I will try to send link later. He only has fragments of the tanks sticker. All numbers matching how can you check for authenticity besides tank sticker. Car has been restored grey exterior black interior
Bruce I'll take a stab at some points of interest that may help substantiate the 1970 LT-1:
1. Stamp Pad must include either CTU or CTK. CTU coded engines being the early release/first design and thus IMO more desirable because they were somewhat "bare bones" with limited options. CTU coded engines should NOT have a date beyond early May 1970 when the 2nd design CTK code was released offering power steering. Additionally and importantly CTU coded cars came factory equipped with 6 quart oil pans.
2. All original 1970 LT1's came with transistor ignitions and incorporated a TI amplifier which is located and visible on the driver's side in front of the radiator support.
3. Heads should be GM 3973414. I believe some of these numbers are visible looking through the oil filler cap?
4. Alternator should be GM 1100884.
5. I believe there should NOT be an expansion tank?
Note: there are many other physical features that help identify; but, along with the above, do not guarantee authenticity. The ultimate source for the history of this car is Terry McManmon who is available on the NCRS forum.
Hope this helps,
Ralph
Last edited by 1966STER; Dec 26, 2013 at 06:28 PM.
I saw in craigslist ,Albany this car I spoke to the seller , I will send link later who says it is all matching restored , but only has fragments of tank sticker. it has the ti ignition and according to him everything matches.Grey with blk interior asking $30,000.00
I saw in craigslist ,Albany this car I spoke to the seller , I will send link later who says it is all matching restored , but only has fragments of tank sticker. it has the ti ignition and according to him everything matches.Grey with blk interior asking $30,000.00
Is there any other way to check
6500 redline on tach....
single return fuel line
A/C delete
Get a picture of the stamp pad, trim tag, and VIN pillar. Then go from there.....
Don't do a THING until you confirm and look at these items, then you can move on to the next step (an inspection) if it passes the first sniff test.
Bruce- authenticating a C3 is pretty much the same as a C2. If you're not aware that the LT-1s are the most frequently faked SBC C3 Corvettes, you're a prime target to get 'taken'.
If it is a fake, somebody's put decent effort into doing it right, although the oil pan looks like a short and not a long version. I'd want to know why.
The term 'all numbers matching' is meaningless. A correctly restamped engine out of a taxi is 'all numbers matching'. Beware.
From: PHOENIX AZ. WHAT A MAN WON"T SPEND TO GIVE HIS ASS A RIDE
Originally Posted by Bruce42
1970 LT1 for sale on Craigslist, Alabany. I will try to send link later. He only has fragments of the tanks sticker. All numbers matching how can you check for authenticity besides tank sticker. Car has been restored grey exterior black interior
If the pad & all the #'S look good it's a good buy at 30,000.00. It will sell soon especially now that it is posted hear. I have learned when it comes to a good deal on a Corvette keep it to yourself & act fast. I had lost a few because I told someone about a car & someone else they told have tried or bought it out from under me. Tell NO one if you want the Corvette.
1970 LT1 for sale on Craigslist, Alabany. I will try to send link later. He only has fragments of the tanks sticker. All numbers matching how can you check for authenticity besides tank sticker. Car has been restored grey exterior black interior
All of above mentioned is good advice, if it is faked they did a very good job and spent a lot money to do so, more then the asking price more then likely. However these cars have to be looked by someone that knows LT-1's. So many areas to look at. Any pictures of the car prior to restoration? Any contact info to previous owners? If the car is a true body off car, paint is good, frame, bird cage, motor looks the part/sounds the part you can only get hurt so bad in the low $30's.
The money being so low is the first thing that makes me think look deeper. Any real 70 LT-1, body off, good paint, factory trim tag with a good color, "matching numbers" , is worth that all day long, if the car checks out in other areas.
Again have someone that knows LT-1's look at the car with you.
Anyway, keep looking OP and very smart for being cautious on a purchase like this. Hopefully, you will get some more pics in short order. As I said, it looks like a really nice car so far.