Hey all. I currently own a C6 that I only drive when the weather is perfect. I love the look of a C3 and have since I was a kid and have been considering getting one to drive local to work and back. I have a lead on a driver condition car in the local area for 5,000. It is supposed to run and drive with no major defects or issues. Paint is weak, Chrome dingy, tires old. Does that sound good price wise? What should I be looking for below the surface? Someone said to watch for frame rust. Where would the most likely spot for that be? I appreciate any input I can get.

The car is a 77 and I just found the sticky on condition at the top of the page that I looked right at and missed earlier. If anyone can add to it, it would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Do you have any C3 friends? My advice would be to take someone with you who knows C3s when you see the car.

Good luck.

 

Birdcage rust is most common.....ask if you can remove the kick panels and inspect.....sometimes you can see this rust from outside the car around the edges of the windshield.

 

5K for a grotty '77 is about 4.5K too much. Don't buy a car that needs work unless you like spending money.

 

Specifically:

SUPPOSED to run and drive: Obviously, confirm these as facts.

Dingy chrome and old tires: No biggie.

In general, a 'rusty' car is going to be a continuing headach. My car had some 'traditional' rust points, but in balance, the car was generally extremely clean and fresh and obviously kept inside its whole life. I took a chance and haven't been displeased. If the car has clearly spent many (or all) of its years outside, I'd generally take that as a huge negative. You be the judge.

TYPICAL rust spots:

EASY AREA 1: Look at the 'doglegs', which are the end of the frame facing the front of the rear tire. Poke around. Even take a screwdriver and tap the area with the butt/handle of the screwdriver (don't go poking around with the blade unless you're really friendly with the guy and ask his permission). Rust and nastiness is more of a "thunk" than a "ting". Rusted off/out endcaps and cancer holes are not good.

EASY AREA 2: Try to look under the chrome trim around the windshield. First at the top, then closer to the bottom. The chrome should be fairly tight to the glass. If it is "puffed up" or clearly separated from the glass, look with a flashlight. You'll probably see traditional "birdcage rust". Another good indicator is looking around the VIN plate on the driver's side pillar. Look to see if that area is clean or rusty.

In both of the areas, you have to be the judge. If there is ZERO indication of ANY rust, that's great. And somewhat unusual. If there is SOME rust, take it as a matter of degrees. If there are cancerous holes and rust dust falling out, you have a real problem and should probaby take a pass.

Price: $5k may be OK to a little strong for a nice, running, rust-free, but not particularly shiny '77. Personally, if it was a rust-free, garage kept, stick shift car that just has 20 years of garage dust on it, it might be a decent price. If it has clearly been kept outside under a tarp since Grandpa Earl passed away and there are several issues that need to be sorted out (beyond tires) to get it on the road, I'd probably pass.

An example: I purchased my 1970 (more 'desireable' year) 350 coupe in driver condition...ran, drove, and stopped very well...with pass-able paint, a slight amount of passenger birdcage rust (confirmed it isolated to the upper corner) and a some recently repaired dogleg rust for $7,000 in Jan 2012. The car isn't without its issues, but it is complete, drivable, and A LOAD OF FUN TO DRIVE.

A good running 1977 in solid mechanical and frame condition for $5k? Perhaps. A 1977 you have to push on the trailer and has some rust for $5k? Negative.

That's my $0.02. Or even $0.01. Others will have opinions. Those are just my quick thoughts from a total idiot...someone who, when he purchased his car in Jan 2012, though a dogleg was one of the 4 things that holds up a canine.

Oh, the volumes I have learned...

 

Perfect, thank you. Between this and the sticky I feel much more confident in where and what to look for.

 

Happy hunting!

 

Once you decide and pull the trigger:

Remember to come back with pictures. We love to see other peoples projects.

Good luck.

 

Good luck with the hunt.

But do you really want to drive a 40 year old car to work everyday? How long is your commute?

 

I guess we're OK with a C6 owner buying a C3...

but only if you wave at us from now on.

 

Hi 42Chevy,

As the other's have mentioned, looking for rust on the frame is the key. Rust costs a lot to fix and isn't worth the extra work on a 77.

However, having said that if the frame is good and you intend on building a resto-mod or simply a nice driver then $5000 is probably not too bad.

There are quite a number of us here on the forum that are not fortunate enough to own chrome bumper cars but we still wanted a C3 and decided a rubber bumper car with the right modifications would still be nice to own and drive.

If you do decide to buy it, then post some photos to give some indication of the overall condition and work you intend to do on it.