Front coil spring install
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
Front coil spring install
This week I will try to install the front suspension. Years ago when we jacked front ends up we used different then stock springs. I would bring them to a shop and they would compress them and double steel band them. You would put them in , line them up and cut and remove the bands. How do we do that know a days in a more sane way??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,262
Likes: 283
From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
I've removed and re-installed a few sets and for me the easiest way to re-install them is with a piece of all-thread, a block of wood and some nuts & washers. Here's the removal with the replacement being the reverse. See post #79:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ressure-4.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ressure-4.html
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11,608
Likes: 780
From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
I've removed and re-installed a few sets and for me the easiest way to re-install them is with a piece of all-thread, a block of wood and some nuts & washers. Here's the removal with the replacement being the reverse. See post #79:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ressure-4.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ressure-4.html
No easy way to tackle this nightmare of a job, I did the wood and thread way on the 66 and others and it's smooth...On the 69 I did use off the shelf coil compressors because it was late at night and I didn't have the other stuff,
One side went really easy o the other side wanted to be a big pain, I had body aches for the next week.....
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 231
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From: Asheville NC
Last edited by Chadillac2000; Mar 31, 2014 at 11:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 793
springs
This made getting ours reinstalled easy: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1586111334-post152.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
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Use 3/4" rod minimum, and grease it. Best if you could find B7 material. Please don't use a wooden block; you are taking too much of a chance. Use a substantial piece of steel instead.
A compressed spring has enough energy it it to hurt you badly. Be respectful of it.
A compressed spring has enough energy it it to hurt you badly. Be respectful of it.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Asheville NC
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
So you can use this method to remove the spring as well? I take it that in removing you would tighten to remove the ball joint nut to break the spindle loose then loosen the bolt to slowly drop the lower A-arm... Is that right? And that piece of metal where could I purchase that or what is that off of? Thank you.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 385
Likes: 3
From: Leesburg VA
I used the jack under the lower control arm method. No spring compressor required. BUT, I did use a length of 5/8 threaded rod through the center of the spring to contain it if it got loose. I simply slid the threaded rod through the upper shock mount far enough so that it went through the hole in the lower control arm, with just a couple washers and double nuts on the top to keep it from falling through. Made me feel much safer.
I was reinstalling the stock springs so once I got it inserted as far as I could and jacked up far enough, I used a sledge hammer to get the lower part of the spring properly seated. I would not have been doing that without the threaded rod in place.
It is not a fun job, and is very dangerous. Think through every move you make. I was very happy when that spring was buttoned up.
John
I was reinstalling the stock springs so once I got it inserted as far as I could and jacked up far enough, I used a sledge hammer to get the lower part of the spring properly seated. I would not have been doing that without the threaded rod in place.
It is not a fun job, and is very dangerous. Think through every move you make. I was very happy when that spring was buttoned up.
John
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Asheville NC
So you can use this method to remove the spring as well? I take it that in removing you would tighten to remove the ball joint nut to break the spindle loose then loosen the bolt to slowly drop the lower A-arm... Is that right? And that piece of metal where could I purchase that or what is that off of? Thank you.
It sounds like you weren't the only one that has raised this question. I had to do a little research myself when I came to this portion of the build. I should have taken the time to make a Youtube video for reference. Hopefully someone will soon. I think a lot of members would benefit.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
I use a version of the threaded rod technique, but I use half of a spring compressor like this one - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...ing+compressor
I remove the top arms of the compressor, and run the rod thru spring mount with a large washer, and attach the rod to the arms in the spring. I then tighten the bolt, which pulls the spring up, and compresses it into the upper shock mount. The spring is then safely held in place, and the lower control arm can be removed. You can either loosen the bolt and remove the spring, or simply leave the spring where it is. The the spring is out, you can reverse this, and use the compressor to pull the spring into the mount, make sure the spring is in the correct position, and then raise the lower arm. The only thing to remember is to not put the compressor arms on the lowest rung of the spring, you need to put it on about the third turn from the bottom.
Installing springs this way, it only takes about 10-15 minutes for me to put a spring back in.
I remove the top arms of the compressor, and run the rod thru spring mount with a large washer, and attach the rod to the arms in the spring. I then tighten the bolt, which pulls the spring up, and compresses it into the upper shock mount. The spring is then safely held in place, and the lower control arm can be removed. You can either loosen the bolt and remove the spring, or simply leave the spring where it is. The the spring is out, you can reverse this, and use the compressor to pull the spring into the mount, make sure the spring is in the correct position, and then raise the lower arm. The only thing to remember is to not put the compressor arms on the lowest rung of the spring, you need to put it on about the third turn from the bottom.
Installing springs this way, it only takes about 10-15 minutes for me to put a spring back in.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,302
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From: Westminster Maryland
Hi r,
I use the method Mash mentions employing the threaded rod and part of the store bought spring compressor.
You're right in thinking you really can't use a jack to compress the spring because the whole frame rises rather than the spring compressing as you jack.
Actually installing the end bolts in the REAR spring takes some creativity too for the same reason if the body is off the frame.
Regards,
Alan
I use the method Mash mentions employing the threaded rod and part of the store bought spring compressor.
You're right in thinking you really can't use a jack to compress the spring because the whole frame rises rather than the spring compressing as you jack.
Actually installing the end bolts in the REAR spring takes some creativity too for the same reason if the body is off the frame.
Regards,
Alan
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Asheville NC
rvzio -- following along with your build thread and you should include the pictures of the bar you used to install your front suspension. If someone stumbles across this thread in a search, those could be real helpful!