Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $200-$300 depending on if any repairs needed.
Alternator Rebuild recomendations?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If you still have the original alternator for your car, just take it apart and rebuild it yourself. Less than $30 worth of stuff involved, unless you really NEED to replace the diodes and/or control/regulator unit.
Remove diodes, bearings and brushes from the case. Clean it well, then shoot some VHT flat aluminum HI-TEMP paint on it and bake it per can instruction. Install diodes, new bearings & brushes, and remaining 'innards' back in the case and you'll end up with a new-looking alternator that will not corrode/oxidize.
Remove diodes, bearings and brushes from the case. Clean it well, then shoot some VHT flat aluminum HI-TEMP paint on it and bake it per can instruction. Install diodes, new bearings & brushes, and remaining 'innards' back in the case and you'll end up with a new-looking alternator that will not corrode/oxidize.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Apr 14, 2014 at 01:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 568
Likes: 100
If you still have the original alternator for your car, just take it apart and rebuild it yourself. Less than $30 worth of stuff involved, unless you really NEED to replace the diodes and/or control/regulator unit.
Remove diodes, bearings and brushes from the case. Clean it well, then shoot some VHT flat aluminum HI-TEMP paint on it and bake it per can instruction. Install diodes, new bearings & brushes, and remaining 'innards' back in the case and you'll end up with a new-looking alternator that will not corrode/oxidize.
Remove diodes, bearings and brushes from the case. Clean it well, then shoot some VHT flat aluminum HI-TEMP paint on it and bake it per can instruction. Install diodes, new bearings & brushes, and remaining 'innards' back in the case and you'll end up with a new-looking alternator that will not corrode/oxidize.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi 68,
If you decide to do the rebuild yourself remember to NOT blast the case with anything, and to NOT paint the case.
Are you certain the part number and date stamps are appropriate for your car? Double check to make sure!
Regards,
Alan
If you decide to do the rebuild yourself remember to NOT blast the case with anything, and to NOT paint the case.
Are you certain the part number and date stamps are appropriate for your car? Double check to make sure!
Regards,
Alan
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Bellevue IA
What years were that metal ground cable "strap" that holds the harness used? Was it used for 1970 BB.
Last edited by Keith88; Apr 14, 2014 at 09:37 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo
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From: Crossville TN
Why should you "not paint the case" Alan? Of course, you only want to paint the OUTSIDE of the case; and make certain that any electrical pathways (power AND ground) are NOT painted. Other than that...and getting it judged by NCRS...there is NO REASON not to paint the case.
If you paint it, use paint that doesn't leave it looking like it was painted:
VHT HI-Temp flat aluminum paint that is baked on....
P.S. I could very easily have said "Why would anyone leave a bare aluminum case to oxidize quickly, after spending all that time to clean it up and refurbish it?" But I didn't....
If you paint it, use paint that doesn't leave it looking like it was painted:
VHT HI-Temp flat aluminum paint that is baked on....
P.S. I could very easily have said "Why would anyone leave a bare aluminum case to oxidize quickly, after spending all that time to clean it up and refurbish it?" But I didn't....