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69 with K66 ignition question

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Old May 12, 2014 | 01:27 PM
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Default 69 with K66 ignition question

Will be looking later this week at a 69 vert with L46 engine option that has the K66 transistor ignition. Anyone with experience with this option. How dependable was it. I know it is expensive to repair or get parts for. I have had experience with other cars of that era with early electronic ignition and they weren't that good. Great when they worked and really bad when they had problems. Also did they used shielding like the point ignition cars did?

Thanks,
Mark Smith
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Old May 12, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Hi Mark,
I don't think the K66 system is known to have any inherent weaknesses or problems.
There are certainly replacement parts available. They're just not likely to be at your local auto parts store.
Yes, the K66 cars still used the complete ignition shielding that point distributor cars did.
I don't think dismissing a car because of K66 is necessary. The 350/350 with K66 is a very desirable combination for someone interested in a sb optional engine.
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; May 12, 2014 at 04:46 PM.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 02:01 PM
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Mark,

I am very pleased with my original TI ignition on my L46. I cannot comment on the cost to repair as I have had to do nothing to the sytem in the 4 years I have had the car. I would consider it a desirable option.

Even if you're not a numbers guy, I would verify the distributor tag, coil and alternator. The alternator should be a 61 amp unit, and those tend to cost quite of bit of money in '69.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 05:22 PM
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Thanks for the info. Looking at this one as it is a stick car. Present 69 is auto. Did that so the wife could drive it and that never happened. She is tooooo scared of it. Found 69 vert local. Owner says its numbers matching but is not original color. Southern car no rust much new stuff and both tops as well. Soft top is an Al Knock. Has hooker side pipes. Don't know if was originally a side pipe car. Says needs body work and paint. Has tremec 5 speed and original 4sp comes with it. He is in the low 20k range.

Mark Smith
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Old May 12, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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Hi Mark,
A 69, 350/350, 4-speed convertible, is a pretty desirable car… in it's original form.
What you're looking for in a 69 will help determine if the low 20s is a good price for this one.
Regards,
Alan
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Old May 12, 2014 | 08:39 PM
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A '69 L46 convertible with matching numbers in the low 20s sounds pretty good, of course a lot depending on condition and your definition of "numbers matching."

Good luck with the purchase, feel free to post some photos.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 10:27 PM
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Again,Get aNorthan Auto
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Old May 13, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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If painting is required, over $20K for that car is too much. (Unless you really like it and can do the painting yourself.)
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Old May 19, 2014 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by spjrr
Will be looking later this week at a 69 vert with L46 engine option that has the K66 transistor ignition. Anyone with experience with this option. How dependable was it. I know it is expensive to repair or get parts for. I have had experience with other cars of that era with early electronic ignition and they weren't that good. Great when they worked and really bad when they had problems. Also did they used shielding like the point ignition cars did?

Thanks,
Mark Smith
Hi Mark: The L46 is probably the best of the streetable vette engines.The K66 is a great option and granted they used germanium transistors then which were the only ones available but now they can be replaced with equivalent silicon which are far superior or the PC board can be replaced with a revised board which is much better and are readily available from vette suppliers,A great improvement was made in late 68 when they put an extension harness from the amp to plug into the car harness. Here is some good advice make sure the air dam is in place below the front valance as they sometimes got broken and not replaced, it will drop the engine temp on the highway 10 to 20 degrees.Also under the carb is a hot slot in the intake , there is a matching gasket a steel shim the carb sits right on the steel shim which can cause minor vacuum leaks. Block the 2 small heat holes with 7/16 frost plugs use the factory gasket and shim but put a 1/16 gasket on the shim under the carb this will keep some engine heat off the carb with our crappy ethanol based fuels. Reason being back in the day fuel initial boil off point was 210 deg F but now it down to 150 also run 180 deg stat plus put full manifold vacuum to distributor at idle this improves idle and driveability. If car is riven only in summeryou can remove exhaust manifold heat riser and replace with spacer block, this will drop engine temp some plus keep right side exhaust dried out, choke will take a little longer to come off but its not excessive. Change primary main jet in QJet from stock 66 to 68 everything else on carb is good.A word of caution about oils, with flat tappet camshafts use an oil with 1250 or higher ppm of zinc as modern oils are only 800 ppm. Joe Gibbs HR is oil is great. Spark plugs: AC are no good any more Autolite 4275 is a non resistor powertip with good street heat range. Wires: Delco aren't the best anymore Pertronix 7mm spiral core or bosch 7mm are great. Oh clean all ground connections I recommend running a 10 gage ground from amplifier housing over to rad support and down to frame also one from alternator ground stud down to frame. That about covers it, if any questions feel free to ask me. Engine should have 94 octane fuel to prevent detonation and damage.

Regards,
George Whitelock
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Old May 19, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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Thanks to all for the replies. I think the seller is some kind of flake. He had a buyer and held the car for him then puts it back on the market but hasn't responded to emails to set up a time to look at the car. Probably another craigslist scam.

Mark Smith
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