69 Numbers Question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 450
Likes: 6
69 Numbers Question
I feel sure this is posted somewhere hopefully in one location? I'm looking for a list of every number that matters on the 69s AND its location. When I say "that matters" I'm speaking of the engine, transmission, body, and frame. Really not looking for the small parts like brackets etc. Has anyone put together a list like this?
I'm sure some of you have seen my post regarding my NON-numbers matching rear so I figure now is the time to check all the other numbers. I have no plan to sell the car but if I ever do I would like to be able to honestly represent the car. I read posts every day on here from guys asking about locations for different parts so I personally think it would be great to have it for everyone in the future to be pointed to.
I'm sure some of you have seen my post regarding my NON-numbers matching rear so I figure now is the time to check all the other numbers. I have no plan to sell the car but if I ever do I would like to be able to honestly represent the car. I read posts every day on here from guys asking about locations for different parts so I personally think it would be great to have it for everyone in the future to be pointed to.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 450
Likes: 6
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
You're going to have to define "that matters." When new, almost everything on the car had a part number, or a casting date, or a specific stamp on it.
If you want to try to start lining up the numbers, Bizzoco's book can be helpful and you will want the NCRS 68-69 Technical Information and Judging Guide.
At the outset, you should decide for yourself what is practical and what is not. You can expect the original alternator has probably been replaced over the years. Originals were date coded. Do you want to attempt to find a corrrectly dated original in working order? The hunt could be a long one and the price could be scary.
Keep this in mind: every part on your car was manufactured, shipped to St. Louis, and stock piled before your car started down the assembly line. All original date codes on your car will be prior to the time/build code on the trim tag.
If you want to try to start lining up the numbers, Bizzoco's book can be helpful and you will want the NCRS 68-69 Technical Information and Judging Guide.
At the outset, you should decide for yourself what is practical and what is not. You can expect the original alternator has probably been replaced over the years. Originals were date coded. Do you want to attempt to find a corrrectly dated original in working order? The hunt could be a long one and the price could be scary.
Keep this in mind: every part on your car was manufactured, shipped to St. Louis, and stock piled before your car started down the assembly line. All original date codes on your car will be prior to the time/build code on the trim tag.
Last edited by Easy Mike; May 23, 2014 at 08:11 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Hey Mike,
I'm sure by now you have found the one on the body (windshield pillar) and the engine. Here is the picture of the transmission stamp. Pop the car up on jack stands and crawl under the passenger side. Note that it isn't always in this exact location, and the VIN can be in a different location than the muncie stamp.
Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the location of the frame stamp, only a close up. You'll typically find it above or just behind the driver's side rear wheel on top of the frame rail.
When I have the ability to snag a good picture of casting numbers and date codes, I like to record them in a spread sheet and insert the picture. A little formula can help you see how close all your part numbers are as far as date, if they have it.
I'm sure by now you have found the one on the body (windshield pillar) and the engine. Here is the picture of the transmission stamp. Pop the car up on jack stands and crawl under the passenger side. Note that it isn't always in this exact location, and the VIN can be in a different location than the muncie stamp.
Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the location of the frame stamp, only a close up. You'll typically find it above or just behind the driver's side rear wheel on top of the frame rail.
When I have the ability to snag a good picture of casting numbers and date codes, I like to record them in a spread sheet and insert the picture. A little formula can help you see how close all your part numbers are as far as date, if they have it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 450
Likes: 6
You're going to have to define "that matters." When new, almost everything on the car had a part number, or a casting date, or a specific stamp on it.
If you want to try to start lining up the numbers, Bizzoco's book can be helpful and you will want the NCRS 68-69 Technical Information and Judging Guide.
At the outset, you should decide for yourself what is practical and what is not. You can expect the original alternator has probably been replaced over the years. Originals were date coded. Do you want to attempt to find a corrrectly dated original in working order? The hunt could be a long one and the price could be scary.
Keep this in mind: every part on your car was manufactured, shipped to St. Louis, and stock piled before your car started down the assembly line. All original date codes on your car will be prior to the time/build code on the trim tag.
If you want to try to start lining up the numbers, Bizzoco's book can be helpful and you will want the NCRS 68-69 Technical Information and Judging Guide.
At the outset, you should decide for yourself what is practical and what is not. You can expect the original alternator has probably been replaced over the years. Originals were date coded. Do you want to attempt to find a corrrectly dated original in working order? The hunt could be a long one and the price could be scary.
Keep this in mind: every part on your car was manufactured, shipped to St. Louis, and stock piled before your car started down the assembly line. All original date codes on your car will be prior to the time/build code on the trim tag.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
That's why I suggested you would have to determine "what matters." Based on what you've posted so far, your car is likely to be otherwise original. The OK code on the differential is the only joker so far.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,278
Likes: 4,372
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi mft,
I think many people have moved beyond the 'large stuff' and are looking at part numbers and dates on items in every area of the car.
I believe this desire to look considerably deeper into the originality of a car and it's parts is a result of the utter fiasco the 'numbers matching' description of a car has become.
Regards,
Alan
I think many people have moved beyond the 'large stuff' and are looking at part numbers and dates on items in every area of the car.
I believe this desire to look considerably deeper into the originality of a car and it's parts is a result of the utter fiasco the 'numbers matching' description of a car has become.
Regards,
Alan
