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Old Sep 5, 2014 | 07:34 PM
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I will have an emergency release cable running from the passenger's door to somewhere outside the car. They make ones with a key lock so you need to unlock the end to activate the release.

I looked through all my pics and unfortunately I did not take any detailed photos of the actuator install. I will do that when I do the passenger door. If you look at this pic the two red circles are the bolts that hold the actuator and I have the rod (red line) running from the actuator to where the key used to unlock the door.

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Old Oct 1, 2014 | 11:48 PM
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Finished rehanging the driver's door, cleaned up the fiberglass on the front edge a bit (still need to give it final shaping and sanding, the fiberglass over the paint is just residual) and got all the edges aligned. Just finished rebuilding the steering column after tracking down a dimmer pivot (apparently there are only two in existaence ). Will finish cleaning up the rest of the interior this week and begin the passenger's door next week.
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 07:56 PM
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Anybody have any thoughts on the Borg Warner T5? All I can find is stuff about the super t10. Don't even know if it's a viable option, but I have access to one if it would work.
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Old Oct 11, 2014 | 12:36 PM
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Anyone have thoughts on the T5?
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 09:53 PM
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Had most of the stuff for the new interior show up last week. Yeah, I updated it a bit. Trying to create problems for myself, but it will look sweet when it's done!

Not going with the t5, no one seemed really enthusiastic about it. Probably go with the t56 instead.

Also picked up another motor. It's just a 350 but it's 4 bolt main, the bottom end has been rebuilt and I'm about ready to rebuild the top end next week.
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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You have all kinds of "mini"-projects that can keep you busy during the winter!

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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 10:17 PM
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I'm just trying to keep up with you DG. You've taken some time off but I still seem to be way behind. This would be a lot easier if I knew what the hell I was doing...
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TileArt
I'm just trying to keep up with you DG. You've taken some time off but I still seem to be way behind. This would be a lot easier if I knew what the hell I was doing...
Me too!

I have as much time invested in reading threads as I have in working on the car. If it wouldn't be for all the members, I wouldn't have a clue when it comes to making a Vette safe and reliable.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 07:51 AM
  #49  
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I just started reading this thread and I have to say you are doing quite well on this thing. Nice work so far.
It didn't look like you got an answer to your original question about the alarm wireing in the door. Since you planned on eliminating the exterior lock you will not need the alarm contact that was in there so peeling the alarm wires out is not a big deal, the plug into a harness under the dash that goes over to the pass side and under the center console to the alarm module. It sounds like your planning a modern alarm/door lock system like a Viper or similar, good move. You will need a couple relays under the dash to make the door locks work with the remote.
Did you rebuild or replace the door hinges? New pins and bushings at a minimum and this is the time to do it.
Nice job on the door.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TileArt
Anyone have thoughts on the T5?
Just found this thread also, your car is really coming along nice.

The T5 is a great little trans at an affordable price. Get a World Class T5
version if possible from a Camaro or Firebird.

I put one in my 68, liked it so much I converted my 77 auto to the T5 also.

Its not a bolt in, but not the end of the world to get it in there. Rear mount, shifter location, and shorter driveshaft. There's plenty of threads here on the forum to help. Keep up the good work!
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Thanks! Yes, I'm updating the locks/alarm. Essentially everything stock has been stripped out of the interior. I have installed the power door lock solenoid as well as the door release solenoid and will have both wired into a modern alarm system when I have the stereo/navigation installed.
Originally Posted by Sixfooter
Did you rebuild or replace the door hinges? New pins and bushings at a minimum and this is the time to do it.
I did not! But that's a great point, I'll order the parts today as well as new springs for the hinges. You're right, may as well do it while I have it all torn down.

I was thinking about the t5 for a while because I had a buddy that had one laying around. It isn't the world class one and after looking at it the thing looked like it had been drug behind a truck for a couple of months. Seriously contemplating the t56 right now. I will be driving this car a lot. It won't be a daily driver, but I want to be able to cruise down the highway relatively smoothly. It was originally a 4 speed and was converted at some point to auto (without removing the clutch pedal - just everything else I need...).
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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Roger,

This is looking awesome, going to totally blow my project out of the water! Enjoyable to read your progress, looks to be going smooth. Very envious of the t56 idea... too bad I don't have the money to do that to mine, problems of being 17 I guess

Anyways I noticed that you pulled out and rebuilt the power window regulator, did you have problems putting it back together? When I pulled out my passenger's I accidentally undid the spring pressure and have been having problems getting the entire assembly to work right now. The teeth always seem to be off no matter how closely I can get them to line up. Figured I'd ask since I'm assuming you pulled the entire assembly apart?

-Joshua
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshua
When I pulled out my passenger's I accidentally undid the spring pressure and have been having problems getting the entire assembly to work right now. The teeth always seem to be off no matter how closely I can get them to line up. Figured I'd ask since I'm assuming you pulled the entire assembly apart?
I did pull the entire assembly apart to rebuild. Do you mean you can't get the gear teeth to line up correctly with the teeth on the motor? Or...?

About the only problem I had getting it back together was getting that spring locked back in, but it's only about half a radius from non-loaded, so it wasn't really that bad. I used a wood clamp to bring the arms together to get the motor back in, it fell right into place.

You can pull the arms together so the gear gets down to where the motor comes through and slip the motor in getting the teeth in the proper location, then use the clamp to get the motor lined up with the bolt holes that attach the motor?

I'm positive there's an easier way to do it, but that's how I did it - so it's probably the most difficult way on the planet.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #54  
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Little before and after of the driver's seat. Still have to secure that top right corner which will happen once I get the hog rings on the top of that side and get the back on, that's why it's sitting a bit high over there.

Those covers fit tightly! Not something I would do again by choice. On the upside there's only one more seat to go...



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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #55  
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If you spray a little silicone on the foam and inside the cover, it will slide a little easier. Same with some really thin plastic, like painters masking plastic ( not the drop cloth). Once you get it in place you can finish up with the hog rings. On some seats, put a plastic bag over the seat, hook a vacuum up and suck the air out, slid the cover on, then unhook the vaccum. Keep up the good work.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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Thanks Kanvasman, I'll definitely give the plastic a try on the other seat.
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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 10:30 PM
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Not too much new to update this week. Everything has essentially come to a screeching halt while I attempt to figure out the damn switches in the driver's door.

I'm putting a (modified) c7 interior in and I can't for the life of me figure out the power window or lock switches. They should, in theory, be fairly straightforward - they aren't. Not looking for anything special. You know - window up, down, door lock, unlock...

I posted in the C7 forum here in an attempt to get help, but it seems wiring info for the c7 is virtually non-existent. I got so frustrated with it today I had to just walk away, or I'd create more things to fix.

It'll get there! I may spend a lot on therapy, but it'll get there!

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Old Nov 22, 2014 | 11:12 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by TileArt
Not too much new to update this week. Everything has essentially come to a screeching halt while I attempt to figure out the damn switches in the driver's door.

I'm putting a (modified) c7 interior in and I can't for the life of me figure out the power window or lock switches. They should, in theory, be fairly straightforward - they aren't. Not looking for anything special. You know - window up, down, door lock, unlock...

I posted in the C7 forum here in an attempt to get help, but it seems wiring info for the c7 is virtually non-existent. I got so frustrated with it today I had to just walk away, or I'd create more things to fix.

It'll get there! I may spend a lot on therapy, but it'll get there!
My husband says with the newer cars things like power windows and power locks are controlled through the body control module. That maybe why you can't get it to work, it needs a computer to run it.
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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How much $ did it take to buy a C7 interior? I bet they were pretty expensive!
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 10:16 PM
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Control computer or not it still needs to send a signal to the control module to activate the lock when the button is pressed, I can't even work that out. I'll get it.

Originally Posted by chstitans42
How much $ did it take to buy a C7 interior? I bet they were pretty expensive!
I bought bits and pieces off ebay from wrecked c7's. Wasn't exactly cheap, but only a little more than a complete new 78 interior would have cost me. It does need *ahem* 'tweaked', though. The c7's are 8" wider than a c3 and not nearly as much room from where the steering wheel sits to the bottom of the windshield.
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