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Wow...very impressive! I just subscribed to this thread. And I feel your pain. Over 20 years ago I put an 89 Mustang GT interior into my 65 restomod mustang. I wanted classic looks, with a luxury modern interior. And it turned out pretty well. But nothing like what you have going on! I love the color choice of your "new" interior, can't wait to see it complete!!
Thanks Troy! It is a tight fit, but I'll get it. I'm actually changing the red leather to burgundy, the interior will be black and burgundy leather. I just left the red on there to try and get a feel for what needed to be left and what could be removed without destroying the basic look and feel of it.
Bought some cheap seat covers to protect the expensive seat covers while I'm working on the interior. Placed the steering wheel in there to ensure everything lines up correctly. Making a little progress.
Thanks Jim! When I get back to that I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions. Right now I'm thinking about just running the relays through the switches that work normally (power in, switch trips, power out) but the window switch still has me stumped on this thing. I'll get it worked out. I do have a multimeter, and I appreciate the offer to help. I'll definitely take you up on it!
If I remain on this approximate time schedule I'll be finished sometime around 2023.
Nice work!!!
Here's what I would look at- will save you tons of work and wiring-
Remote control modules-there's a lot of them out there- CHEAP- I'm thinking I have $15 in the one below. A lot have relays on board- all you have to do is mount the remote in the door- I'm thinking you can handle that after fitting the door panel.
Can incorporate the remote switch/key fob w/ the factory switch- module mounts in the cabin- then just wire up the outputs to the power windows. Done!!! Just have to access the remote change batteries every year or so.
Here's what I would look at- will save you tons of work and wiring-
Remote control modules-there's a lot of them out there- CHEAP- I'm thinking I have $15 in the one below. A lot have relays on board- all you have to do is mount the remote in the door- I'm thinking you can handle that after fitting the door panel.
Can incorporate the remote switch/key fob w/ the factory switch- module mounts in the cabin- then just wire up the outputs to the power windows. Done!!! Just have to access the remote change batteries every year or so.
Thanks Richard. I've actually thought about using a remote module after staring at the door locks and realizing that I already have a remote for it - just get additional ones and use them behind those switches to activate the solenoid. Same could be done with the windows as well - never thought about independent remote modules. Great idea, thank you!
Haven't done much in the last couple weeks. I have a business trip coming up on the 10th and I'm trying to get everything wrapped up with work before then. Been working seven days a week for the last three weeks trying to get caught up, have zero energy when I get home.
I have been taking care of some smaller stuff, cleaning up some of the interior trim so I can cover them with leather, getting small pieces ordered, etc. Nothing really picture-worthy.
Hoping to have the entire weekend off to get going on the passenger's side. We'll see.
Great project!!! Haven't seen an update in a while. Can you share how much it cost in parts so far? Also, I saw that you had to narrow it by about 8", did you just do that off of the passenger's side?
Also, I know C3 tend to be a bit narrower than the rest of the models. Would anyone else on here be able to to tell me what the difference in interior width would be between the C3 and a C4? I was thinking this project would look awesome in a C4 and might require a 'bit' less work. Thanks.
Been super busy with work but have managed to get the passenger's door going. Got it off and all the paint stripped, fiberglass repaired, keyhole and mirror holes glassed over.
All the internal parts are stripped and prepped as well. Began working this week on getting the door panel stripped and fitted. That should take about a week if the driver's door is any indication. Hopefully a bit faster on this one, but I'm still figuring everything out because they two door panels on the c7's are not identical. Also began stripping the paint on the rear driver's side, just to take a break from ripping, cutting and forming a door.
Rebeldevil, I removed a total of four inches from the driver's side of the dash, the remainder will be taken off of the panel above the glove box, as well as shortening the width of the glove box.
I honestly could not tell you how much I've spent on the interior. When I began with this crazy idea I intended to track the various parts cost, but about halfway through I decided against that. I'm definitely not doing it for any sort of resale value, or to be able to claim a certain dollar amount restoration - I'm doing it because it's what I want to do. I think if I have a set number in my mind once I'm done it'll just bug me. I figure there's no reason to track it, so I don't. I can tell you at this point it's well over twice the price it would have been to simply replace everything with a new stock interior.
Thanks guys. It's starting to come together, even though it still looks like a complete mess.
Someone asked me exactly how I installed the power door lock actuators and I didn't take very detailed photos of it on the driver's door, so here's how I did it on the passenger's. Same spots for everything.
This hole is stock in the door, I marked and drilled the one to the left of my finger as well.
This is how the actuator sits in the door once it's bolted in.
You can see the two bolts holding the actuator.
This is how the rod attaches from the top of the actuator to the door latch (rod is shortened to fit).
Removed everything from the inside and got all the leather stripped off the passenger's door panel yesterday - I forgot how much that part sucked. Ready to start reshaping it.
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